Ok, so if you were on BASX 2.4g wheels but with graphite and BSA speed axles, look at the times the Pure Stock cars ran on the same track the day before. Faster cars were 2.920's. They had stock wheel bases 7/8" from the rear and the same wheels but on oil, no fenders, and no shields. Add about .025-.035 to the times since you were on graphite and had slightly smaller diameter axles most likely. You already found that increasing steer an inch didn't drastically pick up your times. Check B_Regal's point 8- Do you have a dial caliper to measure your axle diameter? Is there a chance your axles may have become "over polished"? BSA Speed axles are larger than stock but smaller than what most guys run when it's allowed. Measure an unpolished axle and compare to the part you worked. If it's more than maybe .001" difference it probably hurt you a little. Front axle bend too far into the wheel? It'll bind in the bore if it is. If you think it might be, polish a spare axle, bend it clear of the bore, and try it. If you hold the car level in the air and just eyeball the rear wheels do they appear to "hang" straight or do you see any obvious toe in or out looking from the top down? I know you used a quality jig to drill but some pieces of wood are just ornery and don't take a good drill. If you can see obvious toe, that can cost you a little speed. Maybe .005, maybe .010 if it's horrid. Was the thin body lightened? Did you cover any holes? What about the wheels bores? Like the axles, they can be overworked and enlarged. What about wheel gaps? Were you running wheel gaps that were too loose or too tight? Too loose can induce wobbles, too tight will bind the wheel. The more wheel bore to axle clearance you have, the more wheel gap you need to keep from binding the wheel when it's loaded and running. Few thousandths either way, true, but if you're on the wrong side of the tolerance then it's a time suck. I'll +1 also on what TRE and B_Regal said about the extra weight, don't worry about the cube between but do make sure the rear axle spar is solid. My son used a 1/4 x 1/2 x 1 1/2 solid block glued in the rear (equivalent to 12 cubes) and did well. You can always tune with a plate underneath later.
Sorry this got so wordy! lol
Sorry this got so wordy! lol
