Chanting less than 3* with Silver Bullet Pro

[r2d2]

Hello everyone, this is my first post. I'm hoping to get your thoughts on using a few layers of painters tape on the silver bullet pro to either add a little can't to the zero cant drill hole or to decrease the cant of the 3" hole? My pack does not allow canting that is obvious but slight canting seems to be permitted. A while back I read about using tape to create cant on those red drill hole alignment tools.

Do I put the tape on the side of the silver bullet pro that is on the same side as the hole I am trying to cant or will this decrease the cant?

Or is adding a wedge inside the tool just a big mistake?

Thanks for any feedback!!

 

[B_Regal Racing]

If you are using the Pro, I would just drill straight all around. The Pro is a precision tool and IMO, putting tape on it to change the angle destroys the precision.

 

[r2d2]

If you are using the Pro, I would just drill straight all around. The Pro is a precision tool and IMO, putting tape on it to change the angle destroys the precision.

Thanks for the reply! So if I just drill noncanted holes with the SB pro, should I also narrow the front axles, and should I bend one axle for steer? If I narrow the front, do I drill before narrowing or after?

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I personally do not narrow the front end and I do not drill the front axles at different heights for the raised wheel; BUT, that is because of the amount of bend I use for steer. Essentially, I put as much bend as possible, yet still allowing the axle to pass through the bore. That being said, I would do the following in order:

1) clamp the block in the SB PRO
2) drill both rear axles without unclamping (no shimming)
3) clamp/drill the front raised wheel (NDFW) axle (no shimming)
4) shim/re-clamp/drill the steer axle (FDW). Use a credit card as a shim (1/32" to 1/16" thickness)
** this will drill the steer axle lower in the block to ensure the raised wheel is raised
5) narrow the front on the steer side only (FDW) by 1/16"
6) cut a bend groove in the FDW steer axle
7) polish rear and FDW axles only. No real need to polish the NFDW axle. Use DD4H methods/products
** I use them myself and they do work. Follow instructions.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Next-Level-Axle-Polish-P-09.htm
8) bend the FDW axle with axle bender or hammer/chisel
** do not use the DW axle straightner/bender combination tool that requires a hammer
9) polish wheels / bores / assemble. Use the Black Ice system. It does work.
** follow the instruction on the website below. There is also a video.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Black-Ice-Extreme-Wheel-Bore-Polishing-Kit-POL-KW.htm

A scout can do most, if not all of this without much help.

 

[r2d2]

I personally do not narrow the front end and I do not drill the front axles at different heights for the raised wheel; BUT, that is because of the amount of bend I use for steer. Essentially, I put as much bend as possible, yet still allowing the axle to pass through the bore. That being said, I would do the following in order:

1) clamp the block in the SB PRO
2) drill both rear axles without unclamping (no shimming)
3) clamp/drill the front raised wheel (NDFW) axle (no shimming)
4) shim/re-clamp/drill the steer axle (FDW). Use a credit card as a shim (1/32" to 1/16" thickness)
** this will drill the steer axle lower in the block to ensure the raised wheel is raised
5) narrow the front on the steer side only (FDW) by 1/16"
6) cut a bend groove in the FDW steer axle
7) polish rear and FDW axles only. No real need to polish the NFDW axle. Use DD4H methods/products
** I use them myself and they do work. Follow instructions.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Next-Level-Axle-Polish-P-09.htm
8) bend the FDW axle with axle bender or hammer/chisel
** do not use the DW axle straightner/bender combination tool that requires a hammer
9) polish wheels / bores / assemble. Use the Black Ice system. It does work.
** follow the instruction on the website below. There is also a video.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Black-Ice-Extreme-Wheel-Bore-Polishing-Kit-POL-KW.htm

A scout can do most, if not all of this without much help.

Wow!! Thanks for the helpful info!!

I have one more problem though. We are required to have all four wheels touching. So I am guessing that I can drill the front axles with no shim on both sides?

 

[Rebel Racer]

I personally do not narrow the front end and I do not drill the front axles at different heights for the raised wheel; BUT, that is because of the amount of bend I use for steer. Essentially, I put as much bend as possible, yet still allowing the axle to pass through the bore. That being said, I would do the following in order:

1) clamp the block in the SB PRO
2) drill both rear axles without unclamping (no shimming)
3) clamp/drill the front raised wheel (NDFW) axle (no shimming)
4) shim/re-clamp/drill the steer axle (FDW). Use a credit card as a shim (1/32" to 1/16" thickness)
** this will drill the steer axle lower in the block to ensure the raised wheel is raised
5) narrow the front on the steer side only (FDW) by 1/16"
6) cut a bend groove in the FDW steer axle
7) polish rear and FDW axles only. No real need to polish the NFDW axle. Use DD4H methods/products
** I use them myself and they do work. Follow instructions.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Next-Level-Axle-Polish-P-09.htm
8) bend the FDW axle with axle bender or hammer/chisel
** do not use the DW axle straightner/bender combination tool that requires a hammer
9) polish wheels / bores / assemble. Use the Black Ice system. It does work.
** follow the instruction on the website below. There is also a video.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Black-Ice-Extreme-Wheel-Bore-Polishing-Kit-POL-KW.htm

A scout can do most, if not all of this without much help.[/Q

I personally do not narrow the front end and I do not drill the front axles at different heights for the raised wheel; BUT, that is because of the amount of bend I use for steer. Essentially, I put as much bend as possible, yet still allowing the axle to pass through the bore. That being said, I would do the following in order:

1) clamp the block in the SB PRO
2) drill both rear axles without unclamping (no shimming)
3) clamp/drill the front raised wheel (NDFW) axle (no shimming)
4) shim/re-clamp/drill the steer axle (FDW). Use a credit card as a shim (1/32" to 1/16" thickness)
** this will drill the steer axle lower in the block to ensure the raised wheel is raised
5) narrow the front on the steer side only (FDW) by 1/16"
6) cut a bend groove in the FDW steer axle
7) polish rear and FDW axles only. No real need to polish the NFDW axle. Use DD4H methods/products
** I use them myself and they do work. Follow instructions.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Next-Level-Axle-Polish-P-09.htm
8) bend the FDW axle with axle bender or hammer/chisel
** do not use the DW axle straightner/bender combination tool that requires a hammer
9) polish wheels / bores / assemble. Use the Black Ice system. It does work.
** follow the instruction on the website below. There is also a video.
http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Black-Ice-Extreme-Wheel-Bore-Polishing-Kit-POL-KW.htm

A scout can do most, if not all of this without much help.

B_Regal you stated that you use as much bend on you dfa without being too tight to pass through the boar. I've been toying with this and I strongly agree with you! My question is what degree is that magic bend? Im doing this with a hammer and chisel as you recommended but I'm struggling to get it just right. It's either to much bend where it scratches the boar or simply not enough. I do have a good protractor and could probably make some type of template. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks and happy holidays.
Phil S

 

[B_Regal Racing]

Wow!! Thanks for the helpful info!!

I have one more problem though. We are required to have all four wheels touching. So I am guessing that I can drill the front axles with no shim on both sides?

No shimming the PRO to raise the NDFW. In fact, the bend in the front axle for steer can easily raise the NDFW off the track. Honestly, I had to build a car with four on the floor, but I know there are threads about it. There is a lot of content in this forum, so it may take a bit to find that in here, but it is here. If I had to guess, I would also bend the NDFW axle and set it so it just barely touches the track. As you turn a bent axle, not only will it add steer to the FDW, it will also raise and lower the car. Doing the same to raise and lower the NDFW so it barely touches the track may be the ticket...

 

[B_Regal Racing]

B_Regal you stated that you use as much bend on you dfa without being too tight to pass through the boar. I've been toying with this and I strongly agree with you! My question is what degree is that magic bend? Im doing this with a hammer and chisel as you recommended but I'm struggling to get it just right. It's either to much bend where it scratches the boar or simply not enough. I do have a good protractor and could probably make some type of template. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks and happy holidays.
Phil S

I use this since I race with other adolescent adults like myself:
http://www.derbyevolution.com/images/iphone pictures 088.jpg
I bought it prior to DD4H selling something very similar. I checked the DD4H website and did not see it. You may have to ask as they are expensive to make. You are just going to have to eyeball it if you are using the hammer/chisel method. Go easy...its a feel you'll develop. There are folks who do it this way and are very competitive.

 

[Rebel Racer]

I use this since I race with other adolescent adults like myself:
http://www.derbyevolution.com/images/iphone pictures 088.jpg
I bought it prior to DD4H selling something very similar. I checked the DD4H website and did not see it. You may have to ask as they are expensive to make. You are just going to have to eyeball it if you are using the hammer/chisel method. Go easy...its a feel you'll develop. There are folks who do it this way and are very competitive.

Thanks for the the prompt response. A hammer and chisel it is. If buy another tool this week my wife may kick me out in the cold. I think I'm going to file the head of a junk axle off and tap at it until it fits perfect. Then measure that angle and then duplicate it on a race ready axle. If that makes any sense

 

[Maglev]

My pack does not allow canting that is obvious but slight canting seems to be permitted.

Keeping your pack rules in mind, I'd suggest drilling rear axle holes with a silver bullet and a smaller diameter (0.099") cant pin that will generate a 1.44 degrees cant (OK for scout races). Order the 0.099" cant pin from McMaster Carr (Class Z Individual Plug Gauge, .0610"-.5005" Range, Go Gauge). Use it in place of the 1/8" pin that comes with the silver bullet and follow instructions in John's video/DVD. Good luck.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

I think he has the SB Pro e.g. the drill jig, and the original SB and a drill press...

 

[r2d2]

No shimming the PRO to raise the NDFW. In fact, the bend in the front axle for steer can easily raise the NDFW off the track. Honestly, I had to build a car with four on the floor, but I know there are threads about it. There is a lot of content in this forum, so it may take a bit to find that in here, but it is here. If I had to guess, I would also bend the NDFW axle and set it so it just barely touches the track. As you turn a bent axle, not only will it add steer to the FDW, it will also raise and lower the car. Doing the same to raise and lower the NDFW so it barely touches the track may be the ticket...

Yes, I thought I was pressing my luck with that last question. You've gotten me off to a great start . I will spend some serious time reading thru the threads to develop a solid game plan. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[r2d2]

Keeping your pack rules in mind, I'd suggest drilling rear axle holes with a silver bullet and a smaller diameter (0.099") cant pin that will generate a 1.44 degrees cant (OK for scout races). Order the 0.099" cant pin from McMaster Carr (Class Z Individual Plug Gauge, .0610"-.5005" Range, Go Gauge). Use it in place of the 1/8" pin that comes with the silver bullet and follow instructions in John's video/DVD. Good luck.

Guess I will need to go shopping for the DVD

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Guess I will need to go shopping for the DVD

It is posted in the Premium section.