Ok, I got two cars built today and two more cut for a friend and finish three partial builds for a a single mom with three boys this morning. I put off my own kids stuff until I had others done and now I am wondering if I have it all right. My boys cars are both similar in design. both cars are about 3/8 thick and running fenders front and rear, distance from front axles to front of car is 1 34 and rear asles to rear of car is 1 1/8. I have large weight pockets on both cars with car #2 very hogged out. Car #1 has a hair over 3 ounces of tungston right behind the rear axle with one little cube mid way to give it 5 /8 COM, car #2 has 3 rows of 6 cubes right behind the rear axle and one cube directly in front of the rear axle, and two more cubes about 1 inch and 1.25 inches behind the front axle all along the centerline of the car. Canted rear axles drilled with the silver bullet and raised left front wheel. I have a COM of 5/8 but can get it shorter or longer depending on where I move the weight up front, I also have some tungston putty I can use if needed to adjust things instead of a couple of blocks. My question is regarding the weight placement. Do I have my weight set up correctly? If not what is the better araingement, also what is the best method to secure the cubes down, I considered epoxy but that will make it had to get out wont it without destroying the car. I need to get the weight secured tomorrow so I can paint the car. Last my axle holes are tight and I am afraid I am going to break the car getting the axles in and out, I drilled with a #44 bit, I want to get the axles so I can pull and push them with ease and be able set the gap just right and all that good stuff. I appreciate the help, once I get these two cars finished up I have two more to build, race i Saturday and I want to be done Thursday night.
Down to the wire and the wife is wanting the garage back.
- Thread starter rpenning1970
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The fellas here use the silver muffler tape to cover the tungsten. I think it is aluminum on the outside.
Regarding the axles: get a spare axle and use it to massage the axle holes.
Push it in until there is resistance. Pull it back out using pliers. Repeat until you are able to put the axle in as far as you need and still be able to turn and remove it w/o requiring Herculean strength.
Regarding the weight placement: It is best to have your weight concentrated together.
So, in car #1, it sounds like you should move a few of the cubes from behind the rear axle to the other side of the rear axle. You can then bring the cube from midway back to all its friends.
Good luck this weekend!
- Eric
Push it in until there is resistance. Pull it back out using pliers. Repeat until you are able to put the axle in as far as you need and still be able to turn and remove it w/o requiring Herculean strength.
Regarding the weight placement: It is best to have your weight concentrated together.
So, in car #1, it sounds like you should move a few of the cubes from behind the rear axle to the other side of the rear axle. You can then bring the cube from midway back to all its friends.
Good luck this weekend!
- Eric
I use HVAC Tape to Cover my weight area. This is the product at LOWES:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_237724-56131-148068_?PL=1&productId=3077865
Best of Luck.....
http://www.lowes.com/pd_237724-56131-148068_?PL=1&productId=3077865
Best of Luck.....
I tried that tape last year but it did not hold, it kept coming off, that can't be the only way people keep the weights in and still be able to take them out later.
- Nov 24, 2011
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That's the tape I use also and I've never had a problem with it holding. Usually it holds so well that it's hard to get off to make a weight adjustment.
I was finishing things up last night and getting paint on cars. I checked things out on one of the cars adn i noticed that the rear axle on the car on the DFW side is not at the same angle as the other side and that the wheel does not migrate out until the other side does. Is there anything that can be done to resolve this or is it not a problem.
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