Eliminator Axle Holes

quadad

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Pro Racer
Dec 15, 2011
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I have to assume others have had a problem with this. I am looking for the best, low cost solution.

Guidance is to use a #45 drill bit when drilling Eliminator axle holes. All of the #45 bits I have used (mostly solid carbide), measure about 0.0805" on my digital caliper (which could be off 1/2 to 1 thousandth). I measure the axles themselves to be in the 0.083" to 0.0835" area.

This doesn't sound like much difference, but it's enough that it's nearly impossible to just push the axles in properly. I have had to hand ream with a #45 (slow process), push in/out a #45 pin gauge and exercise the hole with a non-use axle. Its annoying, takes time and might disturb the alignment I have attempted to install with proper drilling.

Reamers, which I could use after the #45 drill bit drilling, are available in any size you want to the 1/2 thousandth inch and are in the $15 - $20 territory (w/o shipping). The biggest problem there though is that I would be spending $20 - $25 on my guessed perfect size and could end up with nothing useable.

Has anyone else been down this road and what ideas do you have ?
 
Are you using a micrometer or caliper to measure axles. The eliminaor axles measure .0845 with a micrometer.
 
Geezer, I am using one of the cheap digital calipers that is so fast I tend to not use the micrometers I inherited. Since I am mostly doing comparitive work, this is fine.

I think though that others will acknowledge the issue with the small holes from a #45 bit.
 
Ever consider using the metric system. It is easier for me and way more precise. Just a thought???
 
Just had a thought, it's probably no good but a thought non the less. After you drill your axle hole run a few drops of water through it to swell the wood, than use you pin vise, while swollen open the holes back up, should make the wood a little easier to work with, and less relieving of the holes. Like I said just a idea give it a try and let us know if it works. When I can find some time I'll give it a try also.
 
quadad said:
Geezer, I am using one of the cheap digital calipers that is so fast I tend to not use the micrometers I inherited. Since I am mostly doing comparitive work, this is fine.

I think though that others will acknowledge the issue with the small holes from a #45 bit.

Micrometers are the way to go if you want accurate. Geeezer is right on with his statement. Calipers are bad enough, let alone cheap ones! Calipers are way too easy to get a false measurement. They are too easy to cock, spring, etc. If your holes are small, try taking an axle that is the size you want the hole to be. Cut off the head, chamfer the end and chuck it in a hand drill. Run it in and out of the hole a couple of times and try your axle for fit. I have done this but with a piece of .093 diameter brass. I don't use conventional headed axles.....You can achieve the results you want as well byusing the proper size gage pin. Make sure you round the end or chamfer the end going in the body. You only want to burnish the wood, not tear it up with a burr on the piece of metal you are rotating in the bore. You can also use the butt end of a drill for your burnishing tool. Again, chamfer that end going in!
 
Thanks for all the good suggestions guys. I think the gage pin idea is probably what I will do since I have those and these axles are expensive.

You're really giving this son of a machinist a hard time about my cheap digital caliper.
dazed
I have to say that my readings with this caliper (and I have two) are VERY repeatable. I suspect they are 1/1000 low in this area, but again, I am not producing parts to a print, I am comparing. I have a FULL set of micrometers, maybe more, and the fact that they are in a nice box 6 feet away is too much too overcome when I can get repeatable, comparable information so quick with my ... I'll call them, digital comparator.
smile
 
Double check your drill bits. I have had several bits that are supposed to be the same size but when I have drilled the holes some will be lose and others tight. Just my $.02
dazed
 
DerbyDad4Hire said:
Easiest of all... push the axle in and out of the hole several times until it fits right.
Unless it is Chiefs car then the axles went in one time and done!!! Axles can NOT be removed without destroying the car...
angry
Not even by Master Spinter himself...