Freedom track questions.

Jan 4, 2014
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Hey guys,

By looking around the web and checking out photos I have come to conclusion that our pack uses a freedom track. I believe its length is 32' I think the timing system is the fast track system.

I was wondering, what are some respectable times that I should be aiming for on this track at the scout level, and are there any tips or tricks that are particularly helpful with this track?

Also, we are in need of somehow improving our stopping section. The stop section currently has sandpaper as the stopping material, but I have a feeling that this may not be original? Its less of a stopping section and more of a crahsing section when it hits the end bumper.

Thanks guys!
 
I don't know any tricks for the picking up speed on the track outside of the normal stuff. But the stop section I recommend buying the weather stripping with a the rubber siding and backside has peel of 3M sticky glue. Just place it over the sand paper and raise the whole stop section piece with wedges.

Sorry about times. That's kinda of a tricky answer. It depends on a lot factors. If the track is perfectly aligned and no bumps and it is smooth all the way down and if you drift is set correctly and you a have pro type prep. You can shoot for 2. 96 range or better. Again there are lot factors involved in hitting that mark. If you get 2.9? anything your doing well. That's my opinion.
 
TRE said:
on 32 foot track should be able to get in the low 2.50's range

Cool. I may have posted without fully thinking about the fact that there are probably a lot of variables between even the same type of track. I didnt get to record individual runs as I was helping with the event, but If i divide the 4 run total time by 4 it looks like I was averaging 2.5195.

I dont know if mph means anything but I can say we hit a best speed of 217.5mph
 
sondo007 said:
I don't know any tricks for the picking up speed on the track outside of the normal stuff. But the stop section I recommend buying the weather stripping with a the rubber siding and backside has peel of 3M sticky glue. Just place it over the sand paper and raise the whole stop section piece with wedges.

Sorry about times. That's kinda of a tricky answer. It depends on a lot factors. If the track is perfectly aligned and no bumps and it is smooth all the way down and if you drift is set correctly and you a have pro type prep. You can shoot for 2. 96 range or better. Again there are lot factors involved in hitting that mark. If you get 2.9? anything your doing well. That's my opinion.

I thought about rubber. My concern is for the many kids that have weights sticking out of the bottom of their cars. Is the rubber gonna grab so hard that it sends these cars into a front flip?
 
92hatchattack said:
TRE said:
on 32 foot track should be able to get in the low 2.50's range

Cool. I may have posted without fully thinking about the fact that there are probably a lot of variables between even the same type of track. I didnt get to record individual runs as I was helping with the event, but If i divide the 4 run total time by 4 it looks like I was averaging 2.5195.

I dont know if mph means anything but I can say we hit a best speed of 217.5mph

Hi Hatch,

On the left side of the screen is a link that says NPWDRL. This is the race league.

If you click on it you will see a tab that says rules. There are 5 separate divisions with rules for each. The main difference between these divisions are the wheel weights allowed for each division.

BSA wheels start at about 2.6grams and are terribly non concentric.

Street Stock is the division that is closest to scout racing. It allows a person to buy or make a BSA wheel that can be no lighter than 2grams.

After that the times get quicker due to the fact that one could use lighter and lighter wheels.
(With the exception of Street Rod which is kinda it's own thing).

The point is that even going from 2.6g wheels to 2g wheels is a tremendous advantage.

If one were to run Nitros at 1.3g against even 2g wheels they would not stand a chance.

Sondo set a track record with 2g wheels the last race.
His car was moving 215mph when he did it. Even if Sondo was racing someone with a 1.3g wheel against his 2.6g wheel, he would not stand a chance.

Just saying.
 
^^^ This can only be relavant IF and only IF this scout track was setup right. I seem to already be the most knoledgable person in the pack about pwd racing, and we know that aint saying much. I have no idea if that timing system is set up right, or if you can even begin to compare a freedom track to a best track as their curves are two entirely different beasts I would assume.

In comparison last year we averaged 213.6 on the same track with our car running backwards, not as nice axles, stock wheels with no bore treatment, and a 7/8" com from the rear axle.. which is reall bad cause the car was going backwards.... so you could kinda say it was a 1 5/8" Com i think.

I get it, you dont like the wheels I ran! LOL I'm just playing brother!
 
92hatchattack said:
^^^ This can only be relavant IF and only IF this scout track was setup right. I seem to already be the most knoledgable person in the pack about pwd racing, and we know that aint saying much. I have no idea if that timing system is set up right, or if you can even begin to compare a freedom track to a best track as their curves are two entirely different beasts I would assume.

In comparison last year we averaged 213.6 on the same track with our car running backwards, not as nice axles, stock wheels with no bore treatment, and a 7/8" com from the rear axle.. which is reall bad cause the car was going backwards.... so you could kinda say it was a 1 5/8" Com i think.

I get it, you dont like the wheels I ran! LOL I'm just playing brother!

I realize that you could not have known how much you were stacking the deck, so I am just trying to fill you in.

You are right. The track could have been at a sharper incline etc.

Hey, ya got away with it and you were lucky, but I would be careful of going that far overboard again.
Those guys at check in had no idea or else you would have been DQ'd.

The only other way you wouldn't have won the race that day were if someone slipped some eliminator wheels past, or if a meteor crashed thru the roof and landed directly on your car.
 
I get ya. Though, most people including John himself said I would benefit more from a pre drilled block than I would from the Nitros. Do you think with a nice pair a BASX and using a silver bullet to properly setup a rail runner that I could approach the same performance? Our car was shaking from one side of the center rail to the other like it had parkinsons.

Which leads me to my next thread I need to make. How to build a tuning board....
 
92hatchattack said:
I get ya. Though, most people including John himself said I would benefit more from a pre drilled block than I would from the Nitros. Do you think with a nice pair a BASX and using a silver bullet to properly setup a rail runner that I could approach the same performance? Our car was shaking from one side of the center rail to the other like it had parkinsons.

Which leads me to my next thread I need to make. How to build a tuning board....

If the car was moving from side to side you needed more steer and the times would have been faster.
 
92hatchattack said:
I get ya. Though, most people including John himself said I would benefit more from a pre drilled block than I would from the Nitros. Do you think with a nice pair a BASX and using a silver bullet to properly setup a rail runner that I could approach the same performance? Our car was shaking from one side of the center rail to the other like it had parkinsons.

Which leads me to my next thread I need to make. How to build a tuning board....

Hatch, I don't think that I am expressing myself effectively.

I want to say to:

John GX
Rocket 5 Kids
Sondo Dew
WK Otto
BR Opa
QT TED
Kinser Goat

And everyone else that helped me when I first landed here...

You fellas have the patience of saints. Thanks so much again!
 
laserman said:
92hatchattack said:
I get ya. Though, most people including John himself said I would benefit more from a pre drilled block than I would from the Nitros. Do you think with a nice pair a BASX and using a silver bullet to properly setup a rail runner that I could approach the same performance? Our car was shaking from one side of the center rail to the other like it had parkinsons.

Which leads me to my next thread I need to make. How to build a tuning board....

Hatch, I don't think that I am expressing myself effectively.

I want to say to:

John
Rocket
Sondo
WK
BR
QT
Kinser

And everyone else that helped me when I first landed here...

You fellas have the patience of saints. Thanks so much again!

Ok, I wont fight it any more. I'll take your word for it my friend. Its just that the fact that your saying nothing but wheels wheels wheels makes me feel like F it, why bother trying to do anything else... If the only thing that makes a car fast is wheels then I'll just go back to stock wheels and cross my fingers and hope the guy next to me really messed something up.
 
Rocket car said:
92hatchattack said:
I get ya. Though, most people including John himself said I would benefit more from a pre drilled block than I would from the Nitros. Do you think with a nice pair a BASX and using a silver bullet to properly setup a rail runner that I could approach the same performance? Our car was shaking from one side of the center rail to the other like it had parkinsons.

Which leads me to my next thread I need to make. How to build a tuning board....
If the car was moving from side to side you needed more steer and the times would have been faster.

I had 0 steer. Running straight BSA axles (well, if you want to consider BSA axles straight) in stock BSA slots. lol
 
Nah,

I'm not saying that at all.

What I am trying to say is that wheels are by far the biggest factor in speed.

If everyone is using the same wheels then all of these other factors come into play.

This is where the skill and ingenuity come in.

But BSA wheels are like a scooter, and Indimid8tors or Nitros are like a Lamborghini.

Bullet, COM, etc will make a difference, but a scooter can't race a sports car and hope to win. There are tons of things to do to a car to make it faster, but if you enter a Harley in the Tour de France, I don't care if you're Lance Armstrong on juice, It won't make a bit of difference.
 
^^^ LOL, my days of old of spanking vettes and Beamers with a 92 POS honda civic contradict your statements... but thats a whole other ball game. Haha
 
Ha! I suppose if you ram them right off the starting line!

Nah. I hear ya. I didn't understand how such small differences to the wheel could make such a difference either, but this is why the PWD gods came up with these divisions. So that you can try to get faster within these restrictions. That is where the fun lies in my opinion.
 
92hatchattack said:
sondo007 said:
I don't know any tricks for the picking up speed on the track outside of the normal stuff. But the stop section I recommend buying the weather stripping with a the rubber siding and backside has peel of 3M sticky glue. Just place it over the sand paper and raise the whole stop section piece with wedges.

Sorry about times. That's kinda of a tricky answer. It depends on a lot factors. If the track is perfectly aligned and no bumps and it is smooth all the way down and if you drift is set correctly and you a have pro type prep. You can shoot for 2. 96 range or better. Again there are lot factors involved in hitting that mark. If you get 2.9? anything your doing well. That's my opinion.

I thought about rubber. My concern is for the many kids that have weights sticking out of the bottom of their cars. Is the rubber gonna grab so hard that it sends these cars into a front flip?

We did this to an old wood track for another PACK and we didn't have any cars flipping. If you angle it that will also help with stoppage too.
 
Rocket car said:
92hatchattack said:
I get ya. Though, most people including John himself said I would benefit more from a pre drilled block than I would from the Nitros. Do you think with a nice pair a BASX and using a silver bullet to properly setup a rail runner that I could approach the same performance? Our car was shaking from one side of the center rail to the other like it had parkinsons.

Which leads me to my next thread I need to make. How to build a tuning board....
If the car was moving from side to side you needed more steer and the times would have been faster.

+1
 
92hatchattack said:
Hey guys,

By looking around the web and checking out photos I have come to conclusion that our pack uses a freedom track. I believe its length is 32' I think the timing system is the fast track system.

I was wondering, what are some respectable times that I should be aiming for on this track at the scout level, and are there any tips or tricks that are particularly helpful with this track?

Also, we are in need of somehow improving our stopping section. The stop section currently has sandpaper as the stopping material, but I have a feeling that this may not be original? Its less of a stopping section and more of a crahsing section when it hits the end bumper.

Thanks guys!

I used this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Con-Tact-Solid-Grip-48-in-x-18-in-Black-Drawer-Shelf-Liner-04F-C6U51-06/100388906?N=5yc1vZc3xh

when I built my stop section. I cut it with a sharp knife into 1 1/2" wide strips and attached it with spray trim adhesive. My cars that are smooth (or have monokote) on the bottom will take around 75" to stop, the ones that have low hanging weights will stop in about 36". If it gets dusty it is not as grippy, I just give it a quick wipe down with a damp paper towel. If a strip ever gets damaged, it's cheap to replace. I added guard rails on either side and a padded backstop in case one gets away.

As far as the car moving around goes, if the nose was loose you need more steer until it holds the rail, if the rear only was loose you might need more cant.