Gaps

[561 racing]

Ok guys, with all the new air deflectors and wheel weights I'm struggling to get the right gaps because I can't get my Owens gap gadge into position with this new stuff. Does anyone have a good solution for this? Any help would be appreciated as this has been a real thorn in my a$$.
Thanks!
Brian

 

[TRE]

I just eyeball mine

 

[GravityX]

The only thing I can suggest is that you set the proper gap on a mock up. Set a body up with 2 axles and 2 wheels. Set one side up with the gap you're after, use gap gauge. Get a feel of the gap by moving the wheel back and forth. Now go to other side and adjust the gap, by feel only. To check yourself, measure the gap when you think you have the gap adjusted correctly. Keep practicing until you get the right feel for the gap. Practice will get you there. Removing your eyes from the equation will help you, shut your eyes to increase your focus on your sense of feel. Of course, adjust the gap with eyes open, eyes closed to "measure". Now you have your own built in gap gauges. Now in the future, all you'll need is a mocked up gap to set proper wheel gaps. I hope this helps out.

 

[561 racing]

It does, thanks Paul.

 

[LightninBoy]

Ok guys, with all the new air deflectors and wheel weights I'm struggling to get the right gaps because I can't get my Owens gap gadge into position with this new stuff. Does anyone have a good solution for this? Any help would be appreciated as this has been a real thorn in my a$$. Thanks! Brian

I know exactly what you are talking about. When I started making my wheel shields the first mistake I made was to not leave room for a gap gauge. But a lot of stuff on the market doesn't either. Here's how to deal with these and set good gaps:

1. Cut a tuning groove in ALL your axles including your rear axles. With a screwdriver, you have a lot more control over axle as you push and turn it into the body.

2. Make sure the axle holes are the proper size. A #43 drill bit leaves a hole that is just a little to small for the .091 axles, so you need to relax the holes a bit with a spare axle, pin gauge, or reamer. I use a .0905 reamer from McMaster-Carr.

3. (Optional) To aide in the removal of the wheels (the wheel weights/shields make that difficult too) drill or cut some type of access hole in the wood cross spar right where the axle tip is. Then use a small drill bit, screwdriver or anything to poke into the hole and lever the axle out.

4. Practice!

Hope that helps!

 

[561 racing]

Great info Tom, thank you!

 

[Kinser Racing]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing. If you make a mistake a drop of water in the hole is the bomb. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

 

[561 racing]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing. If you make a mistake a drop of water in the hole is the bomb. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

Yeah, I've done the water trick before but seems to loosen back up. New axle sizes are taking a little to get used to.

 

[GravityX]

3. (Optional) To aide in the removal of the wheels (the wheel weights/shields make that difficult too) drill or cut some type of access hole in the wood cross spar right where the axle tip is. Then use a small drill bit, screwdriver or anything to poke into the hole and lever the axle out.

Here's a picture that Bulldog showed awhile ago that will get help aid in axle removal. Although he was using it here to check for a properly drilled body.

 

[Kinser Racing]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing. If you make a mistake a drop of water in the hole is the bomb. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

Yeah, I've done the water trick before but seems to loosen back up. New axle sizes are taking a little to get used to.

Hmm! I've never had that happen. Are you letting it dry before inserting the axle?

 

[down4derby]

I trimmed the sides of my gauges to fit.

 

[561 racing]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing. If you make a mistake a drop of water in the hole is the bomb. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

Yeah, I've done the water trick before but seems to loosen back up. New axle sizes are taking a little to get used to.

Hmm! I've never had that happen. Are you letting it dry before inserting the axle?

No should I be, if so that might exple the issues with that. Thanks Chris!

 

[Kinser Racing]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing. If you make a mistake a drop of water in the hole is the bomb. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

Yeah, I've done the water trick before but seems to loosen back up. New axle sizes are taking a little to get used to.

Hmm! I've never had that happen. Are you letting it dry before inserting the axle?

No should I be, if so that might exple the issues with that. Thanks Chris!

Yes, you're raising the grain of the wood and want it to stay raised. I had to do it a couple of times to several winning cars. Sorry to high jack the thread.

On the gaps I just eyeball them with a little wiggle of the wheel most of the time. I don't have a gap guage but I've used one a few times.

 

[561 racing]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing. If you make a mistake a drop of water in the hole is the bomb. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif

Yeah, I've done the water trick before but seems to loosen back up. New axle sizes are taking a little to get used to.

Hmm! I've never had that happen. Are you letting it dry before inserting the axle?

No should I be, if so that might exple the issues with that. Thanks Chris!

Yes, you're raising the grain of the wood and want it to stay raised. I had to do it a couple of times to several winning cars. Sorry to high jack the thread.

On the gaps I just eyeball them with a little wiggle of the wheel most of the time. I don't have a gap guage but I've used one a few times.

No worries about hijacking, front and back same amount of gap or is the DFW relative to the NDFW?

 

[Kinser Racing]

It's a personal preferences each car's different.

 

[LightninBoy]

New sets of axles have a .090 shank. Be sure before relaxing.

Glad you pointed that out. I did not notice that before.

 

[pony express]

Sometimes I'll cut a small piece of shim; 1/2 square and place it flat on the table top. Then press the wheel-axle into the hole against the shim on the table top slowly like the old days until you can't push it on anymore. Depending on the size of your shim will determine the gap. Shims from .015 to .030 should be good. The newer wheels with short hubs makes this method next to impossible. It works with the usual hubs.

 

[derby freak]

Try dulling the sharp point of the axles.....set your drill press to drill just far enough in to where when your axles are pushed all the way in your gap is right...