Getting ready to build first car for cub scouts

I'm going to make a video of the difference between a well built car using the best methods we have to our knowledge to date and I'll build a car using the gimmick methods I learned about when I was bran new. My boys won using the treadmill and the bent rears, the finger lathe killer device, and the DW tools. Then we thought we were fast, we searched for a bigger race, with more competition. We found nothing in our area so we searched further and found NPWDRL. Yes you can win at a small level where the cars are all fairly slow but winning in a council that has cars that employ proper building techniques as opposed to wasting money on crap jigs, and Chinese PWD tools. I have a drawer full of them and I will do a informative video that will be given away to help out the new scout families that fall for it each year. Please don't go the V.K rout if you want to win in any tough competition.

How long before you have the video? I only have 2 weeks. Thanks for all the advice. I'm actually an auto body tech so I get into this kind of stuff!!
 
You can play Balistic but you have to split V.K's entry fee with me, LOL> Yeah I'll wait until March but then V.K, the bent axle derby car will be exposed. See you then my friend.
 
Scott, I will make the video ASAP but it ain't going to happen in the next 2 weeks. I just invested in new video equipment so it'll be a good one. Post your questions here and we'll all help you out and we will try not to steer you in the wrong direction.
 
You can play Balistic but you have to split V.K's entry fee with me, LOL> Yeah I'll wait until March but then V.K, the bent axle derby car will be exposed. See you then my friend.

FWIW, I had been planning on getting back into the routine of sending a car in once a month, so you can sponsor some other racer or something.
 
Scott, I will make the video ASAP but it ain't going to happen in the next 2 weeks. I just invested in new video equipment so it'll be a good one. Post your questions here and we'll all help you out and we will try not to steer you in the wrong direction.
So do I use the slotted axle slots that are pre drilled for me? Then just polish the heck out of the axles and inside of wheels?? How will I know I pushed the axles in straight?
 
I like to drill my holes in the rear of my car at a 3 degree cant, if you must use the slots you can sand the car down so just a little bit of the slots are left and then drill above them. The slots are bad news for good alignment. Many cars that say must use slots will use a drill jig and then cut slots after the drill. I drill my front hole and use a bent axle on the front to steer the car into the rail.
 
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You can play Balistic but you have to split V.K's entry fee with me, LOL> Yeah I'll wait until March but then V.K, the bent axle derby car will be exposed. See you then my friend.
BAMMM! I'm in for $5 bucks! Looking forward to March. Maybe this will jump start the Box Stock class, look out Veterans!
 
What's the best body to make and where do I place the weights on the car?

"Thin to win" is a common mantra that you'll hear. Your car's design and weight placement is going to depend on what kind of weight you're going with. The most common weight that serious racers use is .25" tungsten cubes. With a car body cut 1/4" thick (tapered at the front) and the rear axles set 5/8" inch from the rear, if you allow a 1/4" section for the rear axle, and 1/8" walls for your weight pockets, you can fit 12 cubes behind the axle, and the remaining cubes in front of it.

It ends up looking something like this:
e5AYAzY.png


Of course, if you're using something else (e.g. tungsten rounds, lead wire), there are other strategies you can go with. What kind of weight are you planning to use?
 
"Thin to win" is a common mantra that you'll hear. Your car's design and weight placement is going to depend on what kind of weight you're going with. The most common weight that serious racers use is .25" tungsten cubes. With a car body cut 1/4" thick (tapered at the front) and the rear axles set 5/8" inch from the rear, if you allow a 1/4" section for the rear axle, and 1/8" walls for your weight pockets, you can fit 12 cubes behind the axle, and the remaining cubes in front of it.

It ends up looking something like this:
e5AYAzY.png


Of course, if you're using something else (e.g. tungsten rounds, lead wire), there are other strategies you can go with. What kind of weight are you planning to use?

I bought some tungsten cubes. I bought 2 oz's worth and 1 oz tungsten putty so I can get it at the exact 5 ozs
 
We are running 4 oz. of Tungsten cubes. Two rows behind and two rows in front. To do this you need to get the body down to 9 to maybe 11 grams / .40-45 ish ozs. The stock wheels and axles weigh about 14 grams/ .5 ozs. This leaves a little wiggle room for paint and what not and a touch of puddy if needed.
 
Wait a minute VK... Are you backing out of another challenge ???
No...I'm saying that I was planning to start sending cars in again anyhow, so I'll send the car, but please don't pay for me. Sponsor some other reluctant racer.

Also, what do you mean by "another"? Was there some other challenge I missed?
 
BTW, if the "other" challenge refers to the dust-up with Chips...well...the car I built for that race is still on my shelf somewhere. Chips had some RL shakeups and had to leave racing. Haven't heard from him in ages.
 
Since Box Stock is not a points race Joel could make it a monthly money class. Have the option to send an extra $5 entry if you want. If you don't send the extra $5 your not in the money bracket. Winner takes it.