Hello all.
This is my first post outside of an intro. Getting ready to get going on 4 builds, 2 stock cub cars and 2 outlaw cars. These are strictly for Cub Scout pinewood derby racing. No pro stuff here. (Yet)
I figured I'd post our pack rules, and give you all a description of the track we're running on for starters.
Given the rules and type of track I'd love to hear what you guys think about basic build types I.E. 3 wheel, 4 wheel, straight, rail riding, or any other type that I don't know!
The track is a painted, wooden, center guide track, 7-8 years old. It's 32 feet long in 4 sections plus a 5th stopping section.
The center guides have been "back cut" at each junction if you get my meaning. The leading 1-1&1/2 inches of each guide section has been cut in about an 1/8 of an inch deep to make assembly easier and keep wheels from hitting the guide at the junctions. Hope that makes sense, I don't have a picture.
Given that, I'm thinking rail riders are out. I'm afraid that a car riding the rail will bounce when the DFW hits that transition.
If you all agree with that thinking and I don't do rail riders, is it worth it to raise 1 front wheel? It was my plan to build the cars with a raised front wheel and to bend the axles in order to cant the other 3 for speed and adjustability.
I have built cars like that in the past but it was to run on an aluminum track.
I'll post the rules below but basically the car has to be box stock. Outlaw cars have to follow all the same rules but can weigh up to 15 oz. The only real mod I can come up with, and stay within the rules, is to cut a little off the back and glue it to the front. I plan on doing that to all 4 cars.
I have other build questions but will post them seperately as we move along building the cars.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas.
Here are the pack rules:
The Minimum total width of the car shall not be less than 1-7/8”
The Maximum total width of the car shall not exceed 2 3/4 inches.
The Maximum total height of the car shall not exceed 3 1/8 inches- or the Minimum Safe Distance permitted by the timers.
The weight of the car shall not exceed 5.00 ounces. NOTE: All cars will be weighed on the official Pack scale during Inspection/Registration. Any car weighing over the 5.00 ounces must be adjusted prior to weigh-in. Tools will be available for a parent or guardian to trim excess weight from the car. The only permitted exception is any of the Outlaw class where the total weight of the car shall not exceed 15.0 ounces.
must be freewheeling, with no starting devices.
must have a minimum of 1/2” of material in the center front of the car to permit accurate functioning of the starting gate pin.
Inspection, it will be returned to be corrected.
This is my first post outside of an intro. Getting ready to get going on 4 builds, 2 stock cub cars and 2 outlaw cars. These are strictly for Cub Scout pinewood derby racing. No pro stuff here. (Yet)
I figured I'd post our pack rules, and give you all a description of the track we're running on for starters.
Given the rules and type of track I'd love to hear what you guys think about basic build types I.E. 3 wheel, 4 wheel, straight, rail riding, or any other type that I don't know!
The track is a painted, wooden, center guide track, 7-8 years old. It's 32 feet long in 4 sections plus a 5th stopping section.
The center guides have been "back cut" at each junction if you get my meaning. The leading 1-1&1/2 inches of each guide section has been cut in about an 1/8 of an inch deep to make assembly easier and keep wheels from hitting the guide at the junctions. Hope that makes sense, I don't have a picture.
Given that, I'm thinking rail riders are out. I'm afraid that a car riding the rail will bounce when the DFW hits that transition.
If you all agree with that thinking and I don't do rail riders, is it worth it to raise 1 front wheel? It was my plan to build the cars with a raised front wheel and to bend the axles in order to cant the other 3 for speed and adjustability.
I have built cars like that in the past but it was to run on an aluminum track.
I'll post the rules below but basically the car has to be box stock. Outlaw cars have to follow all the same rules but can weigh up to 15 oz. The only real mod I can come up with, and stay within the rules, is to cut a little off the back and glue it to the front. I plan on doing that to all 4 cars.
I have other build questions but will post them seperately as we move along building the cars.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas.
Here are the pack rules:
- Pinewood Derby Cars must have been made in the current Cub Scout Year. (Cub Scout Year runs June - May) No recycling or reusing of older cars is permitted.
- Racers must use the standard BSA Cub Scout Pinewood Derby kit available at the Scout Store. No Pre-Cut Kits are permitted.
- Wheels must be official BSA Pinewood Derby wheels, in any color.
- Axles and body wood shall be as provided in the kit. NOTE: Only the nail axles that come with the BSA kit are acceptable. No 3rd
Party Speed Wheels or Axles may be used!
- You must use the slots that come with the car.
- Wheel bearings, washers, and bushings are prohibited.
- Axles may be polished and bent, but not grooved.
- Wheels may not be altered in any way. Mold projections/remnants on the wheel treads may be lightly sanded off, but the width of
the wheel tread must not be made narrower, rounded, tapered or beveled. The wheels themselves may not be drilled, lightened,
lubricated or polished in any way or fashion.
- The car shall not ride on any kind or type of springs.
- Any details added must be within length, width, height and weight limits.
The Minimum total width of the car shall not be less than 1-7/8”
The Maximum total width of the car shall not exceed 2 3/4 inches.
The Maximum total height of the car shall not exceed 3 1/8 inches- or the Minimum Safe Distance permitted by the timers.
The weight of the car shall not exceed 5.00 ounces. NOTE: All cars will be weighed on the official Pack scale during Inspection/Registration. Any car weighing over the 5.00 ounces must be adjusted prior to weigh-in. Tools will be available for a parent or guardian to trim excess weight from the car. The only permitted exception is any of the Outlaw class where the total weight of the car shall not exceed 15.0 ounces.
must be freewheeling, with no starting devices.
must have a minimum of 1/2” of material in the center front of the car to permit accurate functioning of the starting gate pin.
- No loose materials of any kind (such as loose lead shot) are permitted on the car.
- Oil, grease, or silicone spray shall NOT be used on the wheels or nail axles. Only powdered graphite is permitted as lubricant on the
nail axles.
Inspection, it will be returned to be corrected.
- Loose graphite adjusts the accuracy of the official scale when it falls off the car.
- Loose graphite adjusts the rolling resistance of the track when it falls off the car.
- If mounting weights under the car make sure they provide enough clearance for the track guide rail. Do not move the wheels in or
out for this reason.
- If mounting weights under the car make sure they are secure and will not fall from the car during racing. If any weights have fallen
off a car during a race- this will be considered a Repair only at the discretion of the Track Officials.
- All cars will be surrendered to the Race Officials following Registration. Cars will NOT be available for further modifications following
Registration. The exception will be if a Repair is needed during/following a race Heat (see below).
