grooving axels for graphite

IAE Racing

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Mar 1, 2013
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So the rules finaly came out for upcoming GS race. For the first time around here the rule doesn't say can't do more than polish axles. I have only grooved once before. I used my small triangle file and made two groves. I see John's axels have one large groove. I know his work the best, really should try to use out of box for this race. If big secret just PM me.
Thanks
 
I have said it before and I still think that grooves, for the most part, only hide wheel bore flaws. I think for the more advanced builder (using good wheels) could use grooved or non-grooved with equal success. For the cub scout racer there is no reason not to use grooved axles. If allowed, use DD4H's 92's, they are the fastest I have ran. My Son's car I sent last month didn't have grooved axles all the way around and it ran fine.
 
And....

If you are a scout racer you should be running the best quality axle you can per your rules. You are going to get more speed out of a axle made of quality material that can take a high polish. A super speed BSA replica with 1 or 10 grooves at .080-.086 in diameter will not be faster than a grooved or ungrooved DD4H 92 axle. I guess I am saying focus on the quality of material and machining of the axle and not the groove count.
 
Thanks, I hear you on quality of materials. For this race, should use axles out of box. We have started to talk about the Mid-America races. I'm sure if we want to compete then I'd need to slip in some good axles and wheels. This is my daughters second GS race. I asked her if she knew how she wanted her car. (she's going to be helping more this year) She says FAST dad FAST
smile
. She took third last year. Her car was porb the fastest but she came off the track (old wooden) once and that killed her. this years were running on the cub scouts best track.
 
If your rules say "should use axles out of the box" doesn't mean you have to. If your rules say "must use axles out of the box" then you must. Please post your rules word for word.
 
+1

5KidsRacing said:
BSA axles are terrible in every way.... If I only had a file I would chamfer the head slightly and at the same time take off the flashing that is up against the head. I would then groove the shaft right over the top of the bumps/flashing on the shaft and remove them completely.

Good luck/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
 
Again +1

I usually use the stuff out of the box to fill my trash can (I used them), except for the wheels, I save those but replace the with DerbyDad4Hire wheels.

khouse said:
If your rules say "should use axles out of the box" doesn't mean you have to. If your rules say "must use axles out of the box" then you must. Please post your rules word for word.
 
Once again thanks guys. Thats how I've always filed axles 5K. Bevel head then completely file down crimp marks, Then sanded down with emery cloth. One thing holding me back was we had never finished by polishing. GOt that fixed. I'm a keep the hammer down kind of a guy. I agree with needing the good stuff to compete at high level races. You hate to get nailed by a sleeper or somone you weren't expecting, but if everyone is racing the same junk out of the box the be thankfull have several boxes to pick best set out of.
 
Most Scout PWD leaders think that making the rules more "out of the box" will create a closer race, but it does just the opposite. The couple guys that know how to deal with the BSA box stuff will be way ahead. Allowing people to buy aftermarket parts keeps the racing closer because it allows the teams with less building skills to have a chance. In either case your team will get out of it what you put in and that is a good thing. That being said there are racers that can win every district/council out there and then on a level way, way above that there are the guys that race here at the NPWRL.... no comparison.
 
And... for KHouse

For the rules... Short story long, I'm sorry, I'm long winded. I'm good friends with the gal that's in charge this year and she had asked my input. So I gave her a copy of the cubscout pack and district race. They actually use the same rules. Now that's logical. They are pretty conservative but not crazy stupid. But she retyped and did a little editing?????????:?

Rule 4. Wheels and axles: Use only official scout grand prix wheels and axles. ( Ok ) You can polish the axles. You may lightly sand the wheels to remove molding seam on tread. No other wheel changes are allowed. Washers and and bushings are prohibited.

The cub rules had also read: The inside of the axle head and nails may also have burrs removed. The diameter of the axle may not be reduced other than to smooth burrs and polish.

Ok so when I was giving her my two cents. I said keep how it had read so not to open can of worms.

The way I read it is groove'm up fellas. there may only be one other father who knows about grooving.

Rule 5. The axles cannot be covered up. No problem since no one in this group can drill holes right including myself. received silver bullet yesterday. I'm going to need help fellas. They may be secured with clear cement. not goint to happen. The Axels must be visible to allow judges to in sure that the axles being used are the ones that have beed supplied in official kit. Any car that uses axles other that those supplied with will be automatically be DQ'd!! Do not move the axel slots! ***Note: we need to be able to see the ends ot the nails!!!

Did I mention I'm good friends with her husband also. He and I will probably be the "officials" This is where it gets tricky. If i was looking at someone else's car @ this point in my careeer, I probably would not be able to tell the differnce as long as the points looked good. Without sounding cocky, I'd guess most "offials" I use that term lightly because often a volunteer who knows what 5 ounces means. So i wonder even at bigger races where they state rules to this degree. How many people are there out there that can actually tell the diff. I've seen this problem in other threads of the guilt trip thing. Maybee this belonged in the belly ache section.
 
Yes 5kids I agree completely. Certainly something to work on in future. And some of those scout leaders don't realize there is this whole PWD industry here. Most importantly: You get out of it what you put into it. What about the "under privlidged" not sure what the PC term is. Those kids might not have the dough to $20 on wheels and axles. Wouldn't it be better to teach them how to work and win with what they got?
 
If I had your rules I would drill axle holes regular and then drill 1/4" holes up from the bottom of the block to expose the axle tips. If you think you have to use the slots then drilling axle holes in the slots with the Silver Bullet is easy... My friends kid has done it at my house for the last 4 years. Epoxy the end 3/8" of the slots and let dry overnight. Male sure the epoxy is pushed all the way in the slot, use a pin or toothpick. The next day sand the bottom and edges on a flat surface to bring the glue flush with the block. Now use the Silver Bullet and drill canted rear holes with the bit starting at the very very top of the slot. The end of the axles will protrude into the slot for inspection. Drill the DFW straight and at the top of the slot. You will have to be gentle when loosening the hole and when inserting your axles becasue the epoxy can break out. Make sure you check your drills with a GOOD set of axles and wheels... If it doesn't behave during the test them start over.
 
I don't see where it says you have to use the slots. I would do what 5Kd's said and drill your axles where you want them with a peep hole.
 
Why no, no it doesn't. That was another editoral error. the district rules read Must use axle slots as intended. It's amazing how things change from what people mean to what actually gets typed
eeek
. And as you pointed out these only state do not move the axle slots. I was planning a cut the tail off glue to front type. Hey, didn't move the axle slots, i moved the back of the car to the front.
smile
Better quit fussing the rules before we get moved to the sounding board.