Here's a good price on digital caliper

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4wheeldrift

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Jan 17, 2013
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I've seen these on sale at Harbor Freight for typically $17-20. I found this on another forum and thought I'd pass it along as it's a pretty good price. I just picked one up and the quality isn't bad considering the price point. It even comes with a spare battery in the case.

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Great find 4wheeldrift..... Personally I like the calipers that have steel jaws rather than the plastic type. I bought a cobalt set ($30) from Lowes about 3 years ago... I am hard on them and use them a lot..... Usually I wear them out after about a year, they get loose and they start reading funny.... good thing about Lowes and Cobalt is I just return them for a new set. I think I am on my 3rd set. I believe the type DD4H sells also has the ground steel jaws...
 
Just an FYI in that these have steel jaws. The only thing plastic is the gray piece that holds the LCD display.
 
These do not appear to be the "Cheap" plastic ones...it does say Pittsburgh on them and that is HF best line, and if I am not mistaken they have a lifetime warranty on them as well. I am not a HF fan but for the money they do have some tools that work just fine for home use! The bottom line is they are all made is china and have the same warranty so I would save my money and go with the HF!!! Thanx for letting guys know they are on sale!!!
However, the batteries are junk and need to have the Duracells put in haha
 
Chief said:
These do not appear to be the "Cheap" plastic ones...it does say Pittsburgh on them and that is HF best line, and if I am not mistaken they have a lifetime warranty on them as well. I am not a HF fan but for the money they do have some tools that work just fine for home use! The bottom line is they are all made is china and have the same warranty so I would save my money and go with the HF!!! Thanx for letting guys know they are on sale!!!
However, the batteries are junk and need to have the Duracells put in haha
Click to expand...

Wow 1000 posts! Congrats Chief!!!

clap
 
I know I'm going to get a V8 smack in the head for this question. What exactly do you use the caliber for on the PWD cars. Like a picture of what your measure would be nice. I seriously don't know.
smack


5KidsRacing said:
Great find 4wheeldrift..... Personally I like the calipers that have steel jaws rather than the plastic type. I bought a cobalt set ($30) from Lowes about 3 years ago... I am hard on them and use them a lot..... Usually I wear them out after about a year, they get loose and they start reading funny.... good thing about Lowes and Cobalt is I just return them for a new set. I think I am on my 3rd set. I believe the type DD4H sells also has the ground steel jaws...
Click to expand...
 
Quick measure of wheel diameter
Measure Diameter of axles (you can under or over polish the axes)
(note: Get 5 pin measures. Middle one is .084 or .090 -- two on each side to see if wheel bore is too loose or tight)
Measure width of body when cutting the block smaller than standard
Measure shim thickness
Measure distance between wheels to get wheels the desired distance form the track rails.
I use mine when building an unusual body shape to see if everything balances out.
Probably a lot of other things.
 
I use one to measure the weights to cut the pockets, so the cubes go in snug. Also to measure the height of the car body off the track. It's a four way caliper, you can use the offset on the head to mark the body at the height you want to drill your axle holes.
 
OPARENNEN said:
(note: Get 5 pin measures. Middle one is .084 or .090 -- two on each side to see if wheel bore is too loose or tight)
Click to expand...

Would those sizes be for an Eliminator sir?

I use .0960, .0965, .0970, .0975, and .0980 pin gages to sort stock BSA wheels.

or is that a tip that I should be reducing the bores on my SS car?
idea

I wondered why the rules say axle min dia is .084" hmmmm....
 
I wanted to get one so that I could hopefully be more precise on my measurements for just about everything on the builds...wheel base and axle placement, axle diameter, fender building, and probably most importantly the q-tip diameters. I'm new to the racing and just started doing the bore polishing and noticed how there were inconsistencies in the q-tip shaft diameters and on one occasion I had the paper shaft twist off and get stuck in the wheel cause it was so tight.
 
How could the wheel bore be reduced? I always assumed the larger axles were used to accomplish the same effect.
 
sondo007 said:
I know I'm going to get a V8 smack in the head for this question. What exactly do you use the caliber for on the PWD cars. Like a picture of what your measure would be nice. I seriously don't know.
smack


5KidsRacing said:
Great find 4wheeldrift..... Personally I like the calipers that have steel jaws rather than the plastic type. I bought a cobalt set ($30) from Lowes about 3 years ago... I am hard on them and use them a lot..... Usually I wear them out after about a year, they get loose and they start reading funny.... good thing about Lowes and Cobalt is I just return them for a new set. I think I am on my 3rd set. I believe the type DD4H sells also has the ground steel jaws...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I use it mainly cutting wheels and axles, with a manual lathe it gets used a lot
 
comersj said:
How could the wheel bore be reduced? I always assumed the larger axles were used to accomplish the same effect.
Click to expand...

I have no idea!, but I wondered why the min dia in the rules is .084 when the stock BSA bores would be loose as a goose. I thought maybe the smaller axle diameter would be faster with the correct size bore?
 
bracketracer said:
OPARENNEN said:
(note: Get 5 pin measures. Middle one is .084 or .090 -- two on each side to see if wheel bore is too loose or tight)
Click to expand...

Would those sizes be for an Eliminator sir?

I use .0960, .0965, .0970, .0975, and .0980 pin gages to sort stock BSA wheels.

or is that a tip that I should be reducing the bores on my SS car?
idea

I wondered why the rules say axle min dia is .084" hmmmm....
Click to expand...

All this is only my opinion. 4 to 5 1000's should be the difference between the wheel bore and the axle.
If a bore is larger than 7000's either throw the wheel away, or fine a larger axle. Usually the difference increases after numerous re-preps (i.e. bore has become too large, or axle has become too small. But even with a new wheel it is very easy to make the bore to large. If the difference is 3000 or less, check if the axles have not been polished enough OR the bore has not been polished enough OR you were unfortunate enough to receive bad axles to begin with (it happens).
 
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