I always have to laugh when this is said ... My last name is Dutel... You hear it in the movies all the time like ....
Do tell, Do tell
Do tell, Do tell
How do you guys
- Thread starter TRE
- Start date
Thanks guys. Looking for anything to help after sat race.Need to start from scratch and see if I can find something that I am doing or that I am doing that I don't need to do
Ickabod Crane said:
I bought it at McMaster.com in a three foot length. It was an .092 blank I polished down.
Funny story- after my second order from McMaster ordering PWD supplies I got a phone call from a lady that worked there. She was calling to ask me if I'd like to set up an account for my business!
McMasters-Carr will sell you aviation drill bits that are 6" long pretty cheap. You can get them in #44 and #43. After drilling your axle holes with your carbide bit, slip the butt end of the 6" drill bit into axle hole and use a 6" machinist square against the body to check the drilled holes. Works pretty good. /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif
In addition to checking the alignment with bits in the axel hole and the roll forward/back test do you also test the rear wheel alignment by sliding the car down a tuning board with the rear wheels only? I do this for my cars without fenders. With front fenders its an issue. To get around this I made a balsa wood "sled" that props up the front end at the proper height and keeps the fenders from dragging. I then roll this down the tuning board to make sure its perfectly straight with rear wheels only.
Will snap of photo the sled later today if I can.
Dr.T
Will snap of photo the sled later today if I can.
Dr.T
Dr. T said:
Put a straight axle in the DFW location with a wheel, this setup shouldn't have any influence on the roll test. Unless something is skewed terribly.
Ickabod Crane said:
You can try this #43 aircraft length drill bit 6" long and it's relatively inexpensive, shipping may say otherwise. As a side note, I wouldn't use it to actually drill axle hole, it's too long and may wander on you when drilling.
I started a new build recently and snapped some pictures of one of my drill hole tests.
In the below picture, the wood block has just been drilled and is still clamped into the Silver Bullet. I put a pin gauge into the drill hole and rest a 123 block on the both sides of it. Then I place something white behind (a shipping carton works) then look for gaps between the 123 blocks and the pin gauge where the white is showing through. Things are looking pretty good here ... no gaps.
In the below picture, the wood block has just been drilled and is still clamped into the Silver Bullet. I put a pin gauge into the drill hole and rest a 123 block on the both sides of it. Then I place something white behind (a shipping carton works) then look for gaps between the 123 blocks and the pin gauge where the white is showing through. Things are looking pretty good here ... no gaps.
Yet another use for the Silver Bullet...
To add a note to your setup here and I'm sure you have done this. You'll also have to make sure the 123 blocks are parallel to one another by spacing the rear with a similar sized pin gage that is being used in the axle hole.
To add a note to your setup here and I'm sure you have done this. You'll also have to make sure the 123 blocks are parallel to one another by spacing the rear with a similar sized pin gage that is being used in the axle hole.
LightninBoy said:I started a new build recently and snapped some pictures of one of my drill hole tests.
In the below picture, the wood block has just been drilled and is still clamped into the Silver Bullet. I put a pin gauge into the drill hole and rest a 123 block on the both sides of it. Then I place something white behind (a shipping carton works) then look for gaps between the 123 blocks and the pin gauge where the white is showing through. Things are looking pretty good here ... no gaps.
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