How to maximize runs with graphite

Mar 28, 2016
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Fort Collins CO
My sons pack sequesters the cars after they are initially checked in for the pack race all the way through districts, we do not have council races. I am not to worried about the graphite lasting through the initial 6 runs in the pack races but if we get to go on to districts I am concerned about the next 6 runs. I plan on using lemon pledge and burnishing graphite into the wheel bores. Is there anything else I should do to get the most out of my initial application of graphite?

Notes:
Tack: 6 lane 42 foot Best Track
Axles: BSA (0.090 diameter bumps on the side not filed down but polished)
Wheels: 1.4 gram Nitro's
3 wheels touching
 
You will be fine. As long as burnish the wheel bores with graphte. Make sure you do a good polish job on the inner and outer hub. I also burnish the outer hub. I picked up a little speed doing this on the cars this year. Good luck.
 
Question- you only make six runs in your pack race and six runs at your district race and you're done? They don't run finals at either race?

If it's truly only twelve runs total you will be fine with burnishing before you install the wheels and then adding more graphite after they're installed. We run twelve runs at our district race alone without adding graphite and the cars don't slow down.

Are the races run back to back or how many days pass between the races? Pledge may dry up if too much time passes. Can't guess how long it lasts, our rules prohibit silicone so we don't use it.
 
Now that you mention it, I seem to remember there being finals at each level last year. So there will be 12 runs down the track in each level for a grand total of 24 runs.

Our rules do not mention silicone but do state "graphite only". My assumption with the pledge is that it added a wax coating to the axle similar to the coatings we are adding to the wheels. It sounds like I may be incorrect in that assumption. I will need to ask for a clarification.

Our check in is on a Wednesday evening with the pack races on the following Saturday. The winning cars are then stored for over a month before the district races. So there is a very good chance that it may dry and offer little if any benefit in the district races.
 
For what it's worth and not so sure it would help with graphite, but it may lessen the worry. You could store the car in a Ziploc bag to help minimize ambient conditions from affecting the car during storage. Squeeze most of the air out of the bag before sealing it. One month in storage is an eternity of worrying. :(
 
Instead of CA glue around the axle holes try Gel Top Coat nail polish. I hardens like rock and can be buffed to a glass like shine. I then burnish it with graphite or wax (depending on the lube). The added bonus is that it can be built up to provide space, like a washer.
I would think they'd let you re-graphite the cars before districts?? With having no idea what environment the cars have been stored in let alone how it being stored doesn't help you predict performance at all. Remember to store it on a block so the wheels don't touch.
Good Luck!
 
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Our rules do not mention silicone but do state "graphite only". My assumption with the pledge is that it added a wax coating to the axle similar to the coatings we are adding to the wheels. It sounds like I may be incorrect in that assumption. I will need to ask for a clarification.

Our check in is on a Wednesday evening with the pack races on the following Saturday. The winning cars are then stored for over a month before the district races. So there is a very good chance that it may dry and offer little if any benefit in the district races.

Pledge contains dimethicone which is what makes furniture feel slick after you dust with it. Since your rules apparently don't rule out silicone...and since the can of Pledge says "polish" right on it, you could argue that you did in fact polish the axles? After a month it would likely dry up though.

Do all the packs in your district impound the cars like that? That seems crazy to me! You have no chance of tweaking the car or adding lube before they impound them after the pack race? 24 runs is a long way to go but if everyone in the district has to do it then burnishing should give you an edge.
 
To be honest, I do not know if the other packs have the same restrictions. Last year I volunteered to help setup the track and check in cars for the districts race. The vast majority of cars were delivered by scout leaders but some where delivered by the scout/family. All that I know is that I turned in the car on check in day for the pack race and I did not get to touch it until after the district race.

The handling of the cars was also not the greatest. Here is a photo of last years pack check in.

IMG_20160305_084230134.jpg


The blue and orange one on its end is my sons car. :mad: After witnessing this, this year we are going to deliver our car in a shipping box and deal with the wise cracks. I have also volunteered to help with the pack check in the hopes to prevent this from happening this year.

If any one has some suggestions on how to store pinewood derby cars in bulk, I would be interested to hear your thoughts.
 
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We went and bought these trays at menards, they're 6 slotted with high sides. Paid $6 each BUT haven't had an issue with miss marking them, no roll offs, no drops and this year we even glued in block so the cars don't sit on the wheels! Well worth the money! They're located by all the storage boxes and little divided up trays. Good luck.
 
The church that sponsors our Pack is incredibly protective of the floor of their gymnasium and, as such, will not permit us to use it to host our Pinewood Derby. Thus, we are obliged to rent space at one of the local Middle Schools. Because we don't have the luxury of setting up the night before, we run a separate weigh-in/inspection event earlier in the week, in which the cars are checked in and impounded.

When we first joined the Pack, I was a little bit horrified to see how they were storing the checked in cars...essentially just putting them loosely in boxes and hoping that they didn't shift around too much. When I took over organizing the Derby the next year, I was resolved to come up with a A Better Way(™). This is what I came up with.

You need the following:

  • Some large cardboard boxes from which you can cut largish (approximately 16" * 16") panels

  • A large piece of ⅝" - ⅜" thick styrofoam (get it from the insulation section of home depot)

  • Some bamboo skewers

  • A hot glue gun

  • A utility knife

  • A good straight edge

  • Several large, stackable boxes used for transporting fruits. Typically about 6" deep. You can find 'em at Costco or something.

What you need to do first is measure the inside of your fruit boxes to find out what will fit inside. You're going to be cutting panels of cardboard that will fit in the bottom of the fruitboxes. In my case, the panels measured approximately 14.25" x 17.5". Cut a panel to fit the bottom of each fruitbox. Take them out and set them aside.

Now, you need to cut strips of styrofoam that are 1.625" wide, by however long you want to lay them in your storage box. In my case, I made them 14.25" long, since I could fit two 7" cars on them, nose-to-tail. The number of strips you need depends on how many you'll be able to fit into a given box, based on the width of the cars. With 17.5" of space, I was able to fit five strips into a single box.

Next, take your bamboo skewers. Snip the pointy ends and cut them into pieces about 2.75" long. You're going to need to take them and push them through the strips parallel to the strip, in the center of where the car is going to rest. You don't have to be super-exact with this. Here's a picture showing one of the panels with five strips atop it.



The final step is to measure the strip placement so that they are equidistant and hot glue them to your cardboard panel. Then, place the panel into the fruit box. To store cars, place a car on the strip, then take a rubber band and loop it over so that it goes over the car, and hooks under the protruding skewers. You want it snug, but not so tight that it's going to cut into the car.

Here's a pic with some cars superimposed over it.



Anyhow, maybe this will give you some ideas! Best of luck finding a safe and secure way to transport those cars.
 
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