Hub Coning

[Guest]

What kind of tooling is used to remove the outer steps on a bsa wheel and leave that nice coned hub?

 

[B_Regal Racing]

DD4H...

I'm fairly new at all of this, but it has been my experience that it is better to give the hubs a nice polish rather than attempting to use the DW tools to modify the hub...or buy them for $11 and know they are done correctly. The wheels below would be for Scout Racing (strict rules) or the NPWDRL BASX class.

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/The-Dynasty-BASX-set-of-4-wheels-W-BASX.htm

Of course, the rules may allow you to have more extreme modifications. Here is an assortment of different flavors of wheels to choose from:

http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/Wheels_c2.htm

If you modify a set of wheels with this tool, you'll most likely be faster with a set of unmodified wheels, given the same prep, from what I have found. I have mauled more than a few wheels trying to get it right.

 

[Guest]

B legal, I have been machining my own wheels since May of this year. I bought a mini lathe and since then have made my own tooling, wheel jigs, and dissected a couple of bsa wheels. i have gotten my wheels down to 1.2 grams, I weigh them on a lyman powder scale, with awesome results. I want to know how that convex curve is put where the two step is on the outer face of the wheel hub. ya know, is it a hollow ground 4 fluted end mill, or is the tooling a half radius in a tool post. Im just wondering how that machining is done to the outer hub?

 

[Guest]

B legal, I have been machining my own wheels since May of this year. I bought a mini lathe and since then have made my own tooling, wheel jigs, and dissected a couple of bsa wheels. i have gotten my wheels down to 1.2 grams, I weigh them on a lyman powder scale, with awesome results. I want to know how that convex curve is put where the two step is on the outer face of the wheel hub. ya know, is it a hollow ground 4 fluted end mill, or is the tooling a half radius in a tool post. Im just wondering how that machining is done to the outer hub?

Please B Legal

Do fill us in.

Is it an endmill or a half round?

Great question Jimmy

 

[Guest]

B legal, I have been machining my own wheels since May of this year. I bought a mini lathe and since then have made my own tooling, wheel jigs, and dissected a couple of bsa wheels. i have gotten my wheels down to 1.2 grams, I weigh them on a lyman powder scale, with awesome results. I want to know how that convex curve is put where the two step is on the outer face of the wheel hub. ya know, is it a hollow ground 4 fluted end mill, or is the tooling a half radius in a tool post. Im just wondering how that machining is done to the outer hub?

It doesn't have to be anything fancy. You guys are making this way too difficult. All that needs to be done is to face the surface where the step is till the step is gone. Your face cut will now be perpendicular with the bore, make an angled cut away from your faced area leaving just a tiny ring of the original surface you faced. (.005 to .015) wide ring will do. This can all be done with the same tool bit if set up properly.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

Do fill us in. Is it an endmill or a half round?

Neither, and I'm not telling

 

[Tekcor1]

DD4H... If you modify a set of wheels with this tool, you'll most likely be faster with a set of unmodified wheels, given the same prep, from what I have found. I have mauled more than a few wheels trying to get it right.

Are you saying the wheels will run better if run stock than if the wheels are prepped with this tool? I'm getting ready for a powderpuff derby and looking to improve my wheel prep from last year. I was considering buying that tool to prep the hubs, but maybe I shouldn't be?

 

[HMH Racing]

yes, most of us here have tried "those tools" to improve our cars and they tend to hurt more than help. I would leave them or better yet follow B Regals advice and purchase the Dynasty BASX or Rage, depending on your rules. You will not be sorry /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

 

[B_Regal Racing]

DD4H... If you modify a set of wheels with this tool, you'll most likely be faster with a set of unmodified wheels, given the same prep, from what I have found. I have mauled more than a few wheels trying to get it right.

Are you saying the wheels will run better if run stock than if the wheels are prepped with this tool? I'm getting ready for a powderpuff derby and looking to improve my wheel prep from last year. I was considering buying that tool to prep the hubs, but maybe I shouldn't be?

I have all of the "classic" tools; I'm sure I spent upwards around $200 for the hub shaver, pro hub tool, the axle "straightener", the axle "bender", the wheel shaver, etc. The list goes on and on. I'm sure someone may have had some success, but from my experience, I have ruined more wheels and axles than I can count. I can not believe I was pounding on axles with a hammer to bend them for the FDW (and I'm not talking about tapping a screwdriver in a bend groove). There was a time where I considered looking for a used tread mill; fortunately, this site saved me from that expense.

I saved the wheel mandrel as it is good for polishing the inner edge of the FDW where is would touch the rail. I also saved the pro body tool, which would normally be used to drilll axle holes. I use it to transfer lines from one side of the body to the other, like a custom built "square" for PWD. The axle bender is nice (I kept this too) as you can put the same bend in an axle over and over again (FDW only), but you need a bend groove cut in the axle first (do not bend the rear axles). I will say that the axle bender is not necessary though; a hammer, flat head screwdriver and some practice also works fine. I also use the wheel shaver, but not for a wheel that will touch the track.

Hopefully, some others will weigh in, but a good polish and wax on the hubs is all I would do with stock wheels without a lathe or having the experience in using one; same with the bore. With 1 drop of oil (PWD oil of your choice), you should be able to spi the wheel on the axle with the wheel riding on the axle head and hear silence. Noise (ticking) either means a re-prep or a bad hub (assuming that the axle head was prepared properly).

I had purchased all of these tools prior to finding this site; the marketing by Revell, etc. is better. BUT, I am much faster now follow the advice here only using the tools I mentioned above, and no where do I think you will find any pro recommending the hub shaver. I do not want to talk negatively about any tool as they all have their place, but rather, just share my experience.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

yes, most of us here have tried "those tools" to improve our cars and they tend to hurt more than help. I would leave them or better yet follow B Regals advice and purchase the Dynasty BASX or Rage, depending on your rules. You will not be sorry /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

This is what I meant to say instead of that long-winded "war and peace" post.

 

[Tekcor1]

Thanks for the replies. We have bought several of the tools you are talking about (axle straightener, wheel hub coner, etc.) and it looks like some of them will have to be retired this year. My daughter has won what would equate to the district championship for the last two years, and we want to keep the title, so we're looking to increase our times this year. You'll be seeing more of me around here!

 

[TRE]

if your hubs arent perfect your wheels will be slower than stock out of the box

 

[Kinser Racing]

I for one thing am not as nice and political as B Regal. Those tools are junk meant to part you from your money. If you want to win, this is the place to get the info you need. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif

 

[cycrunner]

B legal, I have been machining my own wheels since May of this year. I bought a mini lathe and since then have made my own tooling, wheel jigs, and dissected a couple of bsa wheels. i have gotten my wheels down to 1.2 grams, I weigh them on a lyman powder scale, with awesome results. I want to know how that convex curve is put where the two step is on the outer face of the wheel hub. ya know, is it a hollow ground 4 fluted end mill, or is the tooling a half radius in a tool post. Im just wondering how that machining is done to the outer hub?

It doesn't have to be anything fancy. You guys are making this way too difficult. All that needs to be done is to face the surface where the step is till the step is gone. Your face cut will now be perpendicular with the bore, make an angled cut away from your faced area leaving just a tiny ring of the original surface you faced. (.005 to .015) wide ring will do. This can all be done with the same tool bit if set up properly.

 

[cycrunner]

With my mini lathe I do the same as BSB except I do it in one step, angling my tool bit to make the cut, then polish from 600 up to 12000 grit. I use a squared off bit, no fancy curves, and the angle placement of the tool holder does the job.

 

[Guest]

B legal, I have been machining my own wheels since May of this year. I bought a mini lathe and since then have made my own tooling, wheel jigs, and dissected a couple of bsa wheels. i have gotten my wheels down to 1.2 grams, I weigh them on a lyman powder scale, with awesome results. I want to know how that convex curve is put where the two step is on the outer face of the wheel hub. ya know, is it a hollow ground 4 fluted end mill, or is the tooling a half radius in a tool post. Im just wondering how that machining is done to the outer hub?

I can tell we are going to be fast friends Jimmy

 

[Guest]

Yesterday after work went over to a friends. (He has a machine shop in his garage) We solved my coning issue. One piece of tooling will take back that pesky outer step and also taper the inner hub for reverse wheel mounting. When I can figure out how to post pics will show off some of the tooling and the wheel jig I've come up with. This is going to be a fast year in cub scouts.

 

[~JBD RACING~]

+ 1 Kinser..