I can't figure my Nationals SS AM car out?

[Wombatchewed]

I built My SS AM Revege of '85 GMAX1 and used washers for the first time. I didn't glue them to the side body and put them on all 4 wheels. I tested the car on a 3 lane 35' Bestrack against my other cars. I usually start with wide body/wheel gaps and about 2" inches of steer over a 4 ft push on a glass top table. If my car wiggles on the test track, I tighten the body gaps and add a touch more steer until it goes away. I tested the car once in all three lanes and it didn't wiggle and set the track record in every lane. I didn't want to risk making the car slower, so I just left the car as is with the wide gaps and shipped it to Nationals.

The first heat run at nationals it had a slight wiggle and ran a 4.4764 and finished second.

The second run it another slight wiggle and ran 4.4716 and finished second.

The third run was a disaster and the car wiggled the whole way down 4.6410 WTF? I thought something was damaged.

The 4th run the car runs arrow straight 4.4602 and wins the heat race?

My first thought when I get the car back is to tighten the wheel/body gaps and add a touch of steer and re-test. Does anybody have any other advice? I know I'm getting faster every time I race but judging from some of the other SS cars, there is a lot more speed to be found.

 

[Quicktimederby]

Don't over think it, it will drive you crazy!! The car next to you will make yours do different things. The sad thing is, is that it is almost impossible to tune for. I watched my SS this month make a great pass in the blue lane, than when in the finials the car next to me was closer and made my car wiggle and dropped it to last. There are a few things you can do to help keep it at a minimum, the biggest that most don't know or understand it the distance between the front wheels. when your DOM wheel is on the rail how far off is your Non DOM from the rail? The closer it is the less likely a wobble will effect you much. Unfortunately there is not a set gap that works best, every car is different. If you are a 1/4 inch or more it is to much tighten it up and you probably wont have a wiggle anymore.

 

[zeebzob]

I built My SS AM Revege of '85 GMAX1 and used washers for the first time. I didn't glue them to the side body and put them on all 4 wheels. I tested the car on a 3 lane 35' Bestrack against my other cars. I usually start with wide body/wheel gaps and about 2" inches of steer over a 4 ft push on a glass top table. If my car wiggles on the test track, I tighten the body gaps and add a touch more steer until it goes away. I tested the car once in all three lanes and it didn't wiggle and set the track record in every lane. I didn't want to risk making the car slower, so I just left the car as is with the wide gaps and shipped it to Nationals.

The first heat run at nationals it had a slight wiggle and ran a 4.4764 and finished second.

The second run it another slight wiggle and ran 4.4716 and finished second.

The third run was a disaster and the car wiggled the whole way down 4.6410 WTF? I thought something was damaged.

The 4th run the car runs arrow straight 4.4602 and wins the heat race?

My first thought when I get the car back is to tighten the wheel/body gaps and add a touch of steer and re-test. Does anybody have any other advice? I know I'm getting faster every time I race but judging from some of the other SS cars, there is a lot more speed to be found.

I am guessing that 3rd run was in an outside lane? Either red or blue? I think whats happening is your car is getting sucked over by the air flow next to it. Air is moving on the inside creating low pressure, air is not moving on the other. I would try tightening the space between the non dominant wheel and the rail.

EDIT:
Dang..QT you beat me to this by a minute!

 

[Wombatchewed]

That gave me an idea. I can take the washer out of the lifted non-dfw side and push it tighter. The car actually wiggled in the middle lane and ran the faster time on the outside lane.

 

[GravityX]

That gave me an idea. I can take the washer out of the lifted non-dfw side and push it tighter. The car actually wiggled in the middle lane and ran the faster time on the outside lane.

That's a start. No need for a washer at the NDFW.

 

[B_Regal Racing]

My NDFW does not even spin. Its pressed tightly against the body. But, the edge is polished ultra smooth, and almost looks wet. I use it something like a guide pin.

 

[ngyoung]

Did it do its best time when the NDFW didn't have a lane next to it? The turbulence/dirty air from the other cars could have pushed your DFW into the rail. Not sure if the side with the most traffic is pushing into the car or slowing that side down creating a pulling effect. I think for mine the blue was my best and red my worst. I will be running with a tighter spacing next time. I will also actually measure my front wheel spacing as well.

 

[zeebzob]

That gave me an idea. I can take the washer out of the lifted non-dfw side and push it tighter. The car actually wiggled in the middle lane and ran the faster time on the outside lane.

Looking at your times, it was the red lane that you had your worst run in. The red lane is an outside lane.

 

[~JBD RACING~]

Your not running enough steer. ... If the Red lane was you worse lane...

 

[Wombatchewed]

Your right. The outside blue lane was my fastest time and the outside red lane was my slowest. My DFW is the left front. So I say add more steer on the left and remove the washer and tighten the gap on the right? Is that what you would do? It makes sense if my car is trying to move right towards the rail and the air is pushing it to the left and off the rail.