- Nov 24, 2011
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I thought some of you might find this pretty cool.
- Thread starter Kinser Racing
- Start date
Awesome, thank you for sharing that, I was truly thinking of having my daughter color my next car with Her sharpies (she's a better artist than myself).
- Nov 24, 2011
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561 racing said:
I did that and I'm such a sentimental person, I didn't want to continue racing them.
Kinser Racing said:
Chris, I just asked her if she would do it for me, she said " um, why can't I build my own and color it and race you dad. I'll call myself Little Mis 561 racing" haha I might just let her run the second race in fire series in BASX if she has the time. Little girl does have some pinewood derby talent.
How do people come up with this stuff? Think of the trial and error! Who would ever putt themselves through that kind of situation? Oh, I guess every PWD guy would, LOL.
G
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The person in the video is basically building a cover with the glue to protect the ink once it's transfer to the wood. If you're just going to clear coat over it anyway, I'm not sure you have to go through all of that.
Here is a video of how to do the simplest version of transferring using Avery label backing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq2O66QGCwg
Here is a video of how to do the simplest version of transferring using Avery label backing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq2O66QGCwg
It depends on how clear of an image you want I think. I tried the second method, putting the ink directly on the wood, the ink soaks in and leaves the image looking a little bit faded. I believe the method Kinser posted would prevent that and keep the colors more vibrant.
Here's a pic from the direct-to-wood method:
It worked good enough for what I wanted, so I didn't try to re-do it to get a better transfer on the hand and feet.
Here's a pic from the direct-to-wood method:
It worked good enough for what I wanted, so I didn't try to re-do it to get a better transfer on the hand and feet.
bracketracer said:
Since the coating the first video is doing is not between the wood and the ink, I'm not sure it will affect the color. The glue ends up on top of the ink as a protective layer--which could just be done with spray clear coat after the fact.
Maybe what would help with the color would be the gel that the first video applied to the wood beforehand. Just adding that step but eliminating the elmer's glue step would save a lot of time and complexity.
G
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- Nov 24, 2011
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OCDerbyDad said:
That's what pwd guys do. Take way to long. lol
That is why I started to Sharpie (alcohol based stain and it's cheap) cars, 10 minutes and I'm done. Painting took me forever and if the car stunk I was out a lot of time.
cedron said:
He put a coat of Liquitex Gel Matte on the bare wood before he applied the prepared graphic. It acts as a sizing and would seal the wood to prevent the ink from soaking in and bleeding like it does on bare wood.
bracketracer said:
Yes, that's what I mentioned may be worth doing, and would take very little extra time. I don't think the long part with the glue would help much.
I think I'll try both of these in some spare wood. One with the inkjet and the other with the laser printed sheet that Ocderbydad's wife mentioned.
Hey Kinser, I just finished putting three cars together, and instead of painting, I used a Sharpie for color (BTW, I said I never would). I just didn't have time to go thru all the wait time for the painting process.
Anyhow, I put the cars on the track last night, and immediately saw one car was 0.042 slower than the others. When I got back to the bench, that one went into the trash. Good thing I didn't spend 3-4 days prepping and painting that car. LOL
I told the wife last night I need to go to Staples to buy a bunch of colored Sharpies. That was when she threw it up in my face that I said never. LOL
Movin to the other side... Not sure how dark it is... I guess it depends on what colored Sharpie I use.
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