Lacquer or Enamel? How to tell?

Jan 18, 2012
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Albuquerque, NM
Rather than ask this in my other thread, I'm starting a new post as it may end up being helpful for everyone.

It seems that some spray paints go out of their way to let you know that they are Lacquer. Some let you know that they're enamel. But, some just don't say anywhere *what* they are. Is there a way of telling?

Specifically, I have purchased:
[list type=decimal][*]Duplicolor Filler Primer It specifies 'automotive formulation', so I guess it is likely a lacquer.
[*]Duplicolor Mirage Kit (primer, color, and clear in one package) I *think* it's a lacquer -- but don't see anything on it stating one way or the other.[*]Rustoleum Metallic (Cobalt Blue) I see no marking on this can as to what it is.[*]Testors Lacquer (Green) - This one kindly said what it is.[/list type=decimal]
So, will each of these paints work okay with the filler primer? If I do the 'water droplet paint effect' using the Testor's Green (on one car, the Rustoleum Metallic on another) and then an enamel black to mist the droplet outlines, am I going to run into issues? Especially when putting down a clear coat (I have clear in both enamel and lacquer -- I *think*; I bought some Duplicolor Clear from O'Reillys at the same time I bought the filler primer).

TIA,

- Eric
 
I don't think the filler primer is a lacquer. It's a primer. Most of the Duplicoler line is lacquer. Some exceptions are the Mirage kit. That's the color changing one, right? Also, the anodized colors aren't lacquer either. Most others are. I have found the lacquers to be more forgiving and easier to use, but that's me. Enamels are fine but for me seemed to be more sensitive to out gassing and crinkling. You will have some issue mixing enamel and lacquer coats. The only exception could be if you wait for a full cure, which in my experience can take 2-3 weeks. It still might not mix.
 
When I clear coat, I always use acrylic. It drys fast. Many clear coats take at least a day, like stuff from Home Depot, I think it is Krylon. It looks good when done, but takes forever to dry.

Secondly, after the is on, and ready for clear coat, spray very very lightly from a distance of at least 24 inches, and at least two or three times. Otherwise many paints will krinkle up.
 
The Duplicolor filler primer is almost certainly a lacquer primer (I'm 99% sure). The Mirage line is also an acrylic lacquer. Based on the technical data sheet, I'm also pretty certain the Rustoleum Metallic is a lacquer.

The best way to tell if something is an enamel vs a lacquer is by the recoat window. If the directions state it must be recoated within a certain time frame, then its an enamel. If it doesn't mention a recoat window, or is recoatable any time, then its a lacquer.

Kinser is right about mixing lacquers and enamels...you can generally put enamels over lacquer, but you've got to be careful putting lacquers over enamel. If you recoat before the enamel is fully cured, it will "lift" and produce a wrinkled finish.

I only use lacquers on my cars since enamels tend to stay soft for quite a long time.

PS - I'm a research and development chemist at an aerosol paint company...let me know if you have more paint-related questions.
 
Oh yeah, shopping for paint is definitely confusing. I've only been in the field for 4 years and I still get confused
dazed
. In my opinion, lacquers are the safe bet for most people since they are very forgiving...enamels, not so much. When the directions say recoat within 1 hour or after 3 days, they mean it - LOL. Just remember to follow the can directions, and several light coats are always better than one heavy coat.
 
Thanks so much for clearing that up (at least mostly), MGH. It's very good to know that enamel over lacquer is for the most part okay -- but not the other way round.

On to the painting!

- Eric