Yep!! And the cool thing about the Rod class is the verity of different cars going down the track. We should just find out the length of Stonecolds and Spirits and set that as the rule.
New Street Stock rule amendments
- Thread starter DerbyDad4Hire
- Start date
Spirit had a way cool car, but i looked hard at it while it was staged and if the wheels had been even a 1/16th inch farther back they would have rolled off the back of the track.
At the end of May, I am going to offer a clear lexon body with a platform for a very reasonable price. Buyer will provide wheels, axles, weights and paint. Total cost will be about the same as for an SS car. Plenty of time to get ready for June Championship.
Bodies will be the same (or similar) as Spirits and StoneColds, but clear (unpainted). Platform will be ready to fit (on all 4 sides) into the new long body, with weight pockets and axle holes. Rears will be canted, axle distance w/b 5 inches.
Price (one time advance order only) w/b between 30 & 40 dollars. Platforms will be from DD4H with balsa add-ons by me (OPA). I am doing this as a no profit deal, only to save the class. Lexon bodies w/b from the same place Spirit and Stonecold got theirs.
PM me if interested.
JOHN = CAN YOU ATTACH THE PICTURE I SENT YOU??? TO THIS POST. Or of the two cars you got back from N Carolina, or both.
Bodies will be the same (or similar) as Spirits and StoneColds, but clear (unpainted). Platform will be ready to fit (on all 4 sides) into the new long body, with weight pockets and axle holes. Rears will be canted, axle distance w/b 5 inches.
Price (one time advance order only) w/b between 30 & 40 dollars. Platforms will be from DD4H with balsa add-ons by me (OPA). I am doing this as a no profit deal, only to save the class. Lexon bodies w/b from the same place Spirit and Stonecold got theirs.
PM me if interested.
JOHN = CAN YOU ATTACH THE PICTURE I SENT YOU??? TO THIS POST. Or of the two cars you got back from N Carolina, or both.
Ok guys , I am for whatever the majority wants to do. The street rod class is one of my favorites because it allows some thinking outside of the box. The variety of different cars and set ups is very interesting to me. Most classes become a narrow tunnel of what is fast and what is not and so a builder can sometimes feel limited. I really, really enjoy the four base classes and trying to squeeze every millisecond out of them, but it is good to relax a little and build something with creativity in mind.The bottom line is I am for whatever it takes to get the most racers involved because that is where it is at for me.Please feel free to make any suggestions of what we need to do to make this class as exciting as possible!
I say measure the overall length and and make that the limit.
Then guys can get the different verity of cars Stonecold was talking about.
Then guys can get the different verity of cars Stonecold was talking about.
DerbyDad4Hire said:Here are some pics of what OPA can provide
I trimmed mine down front and back till got to 9 inches, because the boby is about 9 and 3/16 inches long after the base excess flange is trimmed off ( the part left over after the stamping). They make some bodies 8 1/2 long as well and they are 2 3/4 wide which is perfect width. Some of the bodies are over 3 inches in width which too wide. Ask Quick Time because my first car this year at CFC
Race rattled his doors all the way down the track.......SPIRIT.............
Race rattled his doors all the way down the track.......SPIRIT.............
You builders should seriously consider building a Street Rod. It takes less time and cost to build a good Street Rod, than to build a good Street Stock. AND, you will instantly be more competitive.
Here is how to do it.
1. Go to http://www.toytechracing.com/dragcars.htm and buy a body. There are hundreds available, and most of them only cost $5.00
2. The bodies are all clear Lexon. Painting is easy, just spray the inside of the body, and the car is instantly shiny on the outside.
3. Buy or make a normal Pinewood platform 3/8” thick. Also buy a 24 inch 3/8 x 3/8 balsa stick.
a. Drill the axle holes. Mine axles are 5 inches apart, but you could go with a longer span.
b. The rears should be canted, the front straight, with the NDW slightly higher.
c. Rout a pocket out between the front and rear axles (for weight in the rear, and to reduce weight at the front end). I like the pocket on top of the platform, but it can be either top or bottom. If top, the bottom will be nice and smooth.
4. Glue pieces of Balsa on all four sides of the main block.
a. A 3” piece at the back.
b. Two pieces between the wheels on each side.
c. Three pieces at the front.
d. Depending on how forward the front wheels are, you might need 2 small pieces forward of the front wheels on each side.
5. Cut off the excess flange from the Lexon body, then set the body on the platform, and draw an outline around the shape of the body.
6. Cut or sand off all the excess balsa
7. I
nsert the platform into the body, and glue or bolt the two together.
a. You can push the rear of the platform higher into the body to reduce the overall height of the car (i.e. lower the overall profile).
8. The Lexon bodies do not have pre-cut wheel wells, so you can use a dremmel with a sander bit to cut out the wheel well wherever you want it.
9. Prep and install the wheels and axles exactly as with a Street Stock car.
10. Set the “drift” (something over 10 inches over 8 feet), but be sure the nose doesn’t drag at the transition point of the track.
IF YOU WANT A QUICKER SOLUTION, I WILL PROVIDE A BODY AND PLATFORM LIKE THE PICTURE FOR $40.00, THE SAME COST AS A SET OF CHEETAH WHEELS.
GO STREET ROD!
Here is how to do it.
1. Go to http://www.toytechracing.com/dragcars.htm and buy a body. There are hundreds available, and most of them only cost $5.00
2. The bodies are all clear Lexon. Painting is easy, just spray the inside of the body, and the car is instantly shiny on the outside.
3. Buy or make a normal Pinewood platform 3/8” thick. Also buy a 24 inch 3/8 x 3/8 balsa stick.
a. Drill the axle holes. Mine axles are 5 inches apart, but you could go with a longer span.
b. The rears should be canted, the front straight, with the NDW slightly higher.
c. Rout a pocket out between the front and rear axles (for weight in the rear, and to reduce weight at the front end). I like the pocket on top of the platform, but it can be either top or bottom. If top, the bottom will be nice and smooth.
4. Glue pieces of Balsa on all four sides of the main block.
a. A 3” piece at the back.
b. Two pieces between the wheels on each side.
c. Three pieces at the front.
d. Depending on how forward the front wheels are, you might need 2 small pieces forward of the front wheels on each side.
5. Cut off the excess flange from the Lexon body, then set the body on the platform, and draw an outline around the shape of the body.
6. Cut or sand off all the excess balsa
7. I
nsert the platform into the body, and glue or bolt the two together.
a. You can push the rear of the platform higher into the body to reduce the overall height of the car (i.e. lower the overall profile).
8. The Lexon bodies do not have pre-cut wheel wells, so you can use a dremmel with a sander bit to cut out the wheel well wherever you want it.
9. Prep and install the wheels and axles exactly as with a Street Stock car.
10. Set the “drift” (something over 10 inches over 8 feet), but be sure the nose doesn’t drag at the transition point of the track.
IF YOU WANT A QUICKER SOLUTION, I WILL PROVIDE A BODY AND PLATFORM LIKE THE PICTURE FOR $40.00, THE SAME COST AS A SET OF CHEETAH WHEELS.
GO STREET ROD!
You builders should seriously consider building a Street Rod. It takes less time and cost to build a good Street Rod, than to build a good Street Stock. AND, you will instantly be more competitive.
Here is how to do it.
1. Go to http://www.toytechracing.com/dragcars.htm and buy a body. There are hundreds available, and most of them only cost $5.00
2. The bodies are all clear Lexon. Painting is easy, just spray the inside of the body, and the car is instantly shiny.
3. Buy or make a normal Pinewood platform 3/8” thick. Also buy a 24 inch 3/8 x 3/8 balsa stick.
a. Drill the axle holes. My axles are 5 inches apart, but you go with a longer span.
b. The rears should be canted, the front straight, with the NDW slightly higher.
c. Rout a pocket out between the front and rear axles (for weight in the rear, and to reduce weight at the front). I like the pocket on top of the platform, but it can be either.
4. Glue pieces of Balsa on all four sides of the main block.
a. A 3” piece at the back.
b. Two pieces between the wheels on each side.
c. Three pieces at the front.
5. Cut off the excess flange from the Lexon body, then set the body on the platform, and draw an outline around the shape of the body.
6. Cut or sand off all the excess balsa
7. Insert the platform into the body, and glue or bolt the two together.
a. You can push the rear of the platform higher into the body to reduce the overall height of the car (i.e. lower the overall profile).
8. The Lexon bodies do not have pre-cut wheel wells, so you can use a dremmel with a sander bit to cut out the wheel well wherever you want it.
9. Prep and install the wheels and axles exactly as with a Street Stock car.
10. Set the “drift” (something over 10 inches over 8 feet), but be sure the nose doesn’t drag at the transition point of the track.
IF YOU WANT A QUICKER SOLUTION, I WILL PROVIDE A BODY AND PLATFORM LIKE THE PICTURE FOR $40.00, THE SAME COST AS A SET OF CHEETAH WHEELS.
GO STREET ROD!
Here is how to do it.
1. Go to http://www.toytechracing.com/dragcars.htm and buy a body. There are hundreds available, and most of them only cost $5.00
2. The bodies are all clear Lexon. Painting is easy, just spray the inside of the body, and the car is instantly shiny.
3. Buy or make a normal Pinewood platform 3/8” thick. Also buy a 24 inch 3/8 x 3/8 balsa stick.
a. Drill the axle holes. My axles are 5 inches apart, but you go with a longer span.
b. The rears should be canted, the front straight, with the NDW slightly higher.
c. Rout a pocket out between the front and rear axles (for weight in the rear, and to reduce weight at the front). I like the pocket on top of the platform, but it can be either.
4. Glue pieces of Balsa on all four sides of the main block.
a. A 3” piece at the back.
b. Two pieces between the wheels on each side.
c. Three pieces at the front.
5. Cut off the excess flange from the Lexon body, then set the body on the platform, and draw an outline around the shape of the body.
6. Cut or sand off all the excess balsa
7. Insert the platform into the body, and glue or bolt the two together.
a. You can push the rear of the platform higher into the body to reduce the overall height of the car (i.e. lower the overall profile).
8. The Lexon bodies do not have pre-cut wheel wells, so you can use a dremmel with a sander bit to cut out the wheel well wherever you want it.
9. Prep and install the wheels and axles exactly as with a Street Stock car.
10. Set the “drift” (something over 10 inches over 8 feet), but be sure the nose doesn’t drag at the transition point of the track.
IF YOU WANT A QUICKER SOLUTION, I WILL PROVIDE A BODY AND PLATFORM LIKE THE PICTURE FOR $40.00, THE SAME COST AS A SET OF CHEETAH WHEELS.
GO STREET ROD!
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