We can run oil in our pack race. But everyone runs graphite. Would all the graphite on the track slow a car with oil down?
oil
- Thread starter go romo go
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This last weekend my Son ran oil against 60 other graphite cars for 12 runs and no problems..... consistent runs across the board. Run oil and dominate....
All things being equal, switching from graphite to oil gives what amount of gain? With that gain is it noticed at any point during the race like making a big move in the flats or getting out in front at the start? I am going to keep working with graphite but want to try a oil car next year and will work towards that.
ALWAYS oil if you can use it. I learned from the professional racers on this forum that oil is faster (provided you prep as per DD4H video) and you won't get the drop off in speed after a handful of runs that you get with graphite.
Also, I think you'll get faster acceleration toward the bottom of the slope (you'll notice the car jumping out to an early lead) and it will keep most of the speed down the track. It'll look like your car is pulling away and accelerating at the end of the track.
Use DD4H oil!!!!!!
Also, I think you'll get faster acceleration toward the bottom of the slope (you'll notice the car jumping out to an early lead) and it will keep most of the speed down the track. It'll look like your car is pulling away and accelerating at the end of the track.
Use DD4H oil!!!!!!
running oil against graphite if done right you can see 1 to 2 car lengths ahead just at the bottom of the hill.
So If i do a test car and make it just the saem as the graphite car and just do oil instead i should see a very noticable improvement? our graphite car looked like it was pulling away big time at the transition and kept that up but at a decline pace until the finish line. I need to do all my measurements tonight and post them. If we could get another car length out of this then I would be very happy, next step would be using better wheels and axles.
Just my opinion here, but we are using Cheetah Extreme wheels and 92X Pro axles. I wish we could run oil, but can't. If you use those with oil and follow the DD4H video regarding prep you should not only see an improvement, it will make people mad at you!!!!
And my son's recent pack-winning car was 4 on the floor. No canting or rail running. If you are rail running with 3 wheels, you should prepare for an inquisition 'cause it'll be jaw dropping fast.
Just my opinion and I could be wrong........lol
And my son's recent pack-winning car was 4 on the floor. No canting or rail running. If you are rail running with 3 wheels, you should prepare for an inquisition 'cause it'll be jaw dropping fast.
Just my opinion and I could be wrong........lol
Those are the wheels I want to get and the regular 91's. I am not sure what people would do if i had the grooved axles. This is a progression thing so I plan on building a class legal car for the league races that will also run in BSA so that we can know what we are getting out of it. I think April will be our first race. Question about the Wheels, do they look exactly like the stock wheels? Other than the gooves do the axles look stock also? And last did you do your bore prep and axle prep or did you pay for that? Just trying to decide what to do.
I have used oil many times when almost everyone used Graphite. Never hindered our cars. Between races (i.e. District then Council), we clean axles with brake cleaner, then alcahol, then back to JIG. AS to wheel bores, we clean with pipecleaners drenched with alcahol, then a dry pipecleaner and compressed air. New polish, complete polishing first with foam rubber pieces, then after a day, a final polish with dry pipe cleaners. When we first cleaned the bores, there was very little sign of graphite on the rags or pipecleaners. Our GAP was about 20/1000 ths between hub and body (which in our case was always monokote. However, when we apply oil, we only use 2 to 3 drops.
After our pack race the winning car can re-apply graphite or oil (at the track). You can not bring the car home or away from the track. Then they take the car and it sits in a box for about 3 months. The next time we will see the car is at council. Is oil still good after sitting for that amount of time? And would the graphite sitting in oil for that long hurt the cars speed?
If the prep was done right you don't want to add any oil between races and you will still be faster than graphite after 3 months. I run some cars for three or four months before I will take them apart and reprep.
rpenning,
The Cheetah Extreme wheels and 92X Pro axles look absolutely stock. And I mean STOCK!! We had a close inspection and people were paying more attention to the paint job then the wheels. You cannot see the groove in the axles. I guarantee that most of the winners are using grooved axles as well.
As for wheel and axle prep, we use everything DD4H. Get the polishes, kits and the dvd and you are now at the top of your game for speed. Plus, it's very easy.
The groove in the axle cuts down on friction and allows as a small reservoir to hold the oil. In addition, your car won't slow down after many runs the way graphite will and it will last through your 3 month wait period. It's a no brainer.
The Cheetah Extreme wheels and 92X Pro axles look absolutely stock. And I mean STOCK!! We had a close inspection and people were paying more attention to the paint job then the wheels. You cannot see the groove in the axles. I guarantee that most of the winners are using grooved axles as well.
As for wheel and axle prep, we use everything DD4H. Get the polishes, kits and the dvd and you are now at the top of your game for speed. Plus, it's very easy.
The groove in the axle cuts down on friction and allows as a small reservoir to hold the oil. In addition, your car won't slow down after many runs the way graphite will and it will last through your 3 month wait period. It's a no brainer.
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