Old tools vs. New tools needed.

Jan 24, 2015
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I purchased several tools from Derbymonkey for my first build. Now I’m feeling like some of the tools are less than par and or hopefully can be salvaged.

I would like to go over the tools I have and discuss some of the tools DD4H has for sale.

I need to have three fast running cars by this time next year and might like to get some done a little earlier.
 
I’ll start with a list of PWD tools I have and my opinions.

#1 Derby Monkey Pro axle bender. I used this to bend all axles. I’m now understanding bad idea for the rear axles.

#2 BSA Pinewood Derby kit. I purchased 4 of these and was happy with the wood, nails and wheels. The nails seemed half way polished.

Ultimate Speed Kit Includes:
  • ProMax Axle Polishing Kit
  • Speed Boost Wheel Bore Treatment Combo
  • Silver Bullet Premium Racing Graphite
  • Derby Monkey Axle File
  • Center of Gravity Stand
  • Wheel Gap & Clearance Gauge

This kit came with a tool that is inserted into a drill then a pipe cleaner was inserted into the tool, for polishing the in side of the hubs. I chose not to follow the instructions and used a longer pipe cleaner and not pushing the wheel over the tool.

The wheel bore treatment combo has the polishing compounds and wax, they seemed to work well.

Graphite had a nice needle applicator.

I did not get an axle file.

I like the center of gravity stand, it came with a scout logo.

The wheel gap clearance gauge. With the rear axles canted I measured at the top of the wheel. I thought there was to much space, Thought there was to much on all the wheels. Gap is 1/16 and 3/8 of height I think.

#4 Lead wire. I melted the lead the same way as making decoy weights and poured it into drilled holes. I thought this worked well.

#5 Pro outer hub shaver. I did not like this tool, didn’t know how to use it, didn’t even know if I was using it correctly or when it started removing material if was doing more harm than good.

#6 Pro hub tool. Same as above.

I also have a drill press, band saw, jig saw, dremel, sander, and air brush.

These are the pack rules that I will have to follow.

Rules
1. You must use an official BSA pinewood derby car kit (available from the scout shop.)

2. You may NOT file down the wheels. Cars with altered width of the wheels will be disqualified. The tread must remain flat.

3. The weight of the car may not exceed 5 oz.

4. It is recommended that you check the clearance of the car if you place any weights below the car.

5. Cars must be made during the current year.

6. The width of the car may not exceed 2 3/4".

7. The length of the car can not exceed 7 inches.

Now on to items needed,

#1 The silver bullet for the drilled axle holes and drill bits for the standard bsa axle.

#2 What wheels would y'all suggest to meet rule #2?

#3 Opinions on poured lead weight vs the tungsten squares. Roughly how many squares are needed per car?

#4 Some of the others were using oils as lube. What are the differences between DD4H's secret mix and graphite?
 
RhuntIII said:
I’ll start with a list of PWD tools I have and my opinions.

#1 Derby Monkey Pro axle bender. I used this to bend all axles. I’m now understanding bad idea for the rear axles. DD4H has a video on this... watch it

#2 BSA Pinewood Derby kit. I purchased 4 of these and was happy with the wood, nails and wheels. The nails seemed half way polished. Good enough for BSA not the NPWDRL

Ultimate Speed Kit Includes:
  • ProMax Axle Polishing Kit Might be ok
  • Speed Boost Wheel Bore Treatment Combo Don't know
  • Silver Bullet Premium Racing Graphite DD4H oil and jig treatment
  • Derby Monkey Axle File Don't know, I use snap on...
  • Center of Gravity Stand Probly ok
  • Wheel Gap & Clearance Gauge I use DD4H from owens racing

This kit came with a tool that is inserted into a drill then a pipe cleaner was inserted into the tool, for polishing the in side of the hubs. I chose not to follow the instructions and used a longer pipe cleaner and not pushing the wheel over the tool.

The wheel bore treatment combo has the polishing compounds and wax, they seemed to work well.

Graphite had a nice needle applicator.

I did not get an axle file.

I like the center of gravity stand, it came with a scout logo.

The wheel gap clearance gauge. With the rear axles canted I measured at the top of the wheel. I thought there was to much space, Thought there was to much on all the wheels. Gap is 1/16 and 3/8 of height I think.

#4 Lead wire. I melted the lead the same way as making decoy weights and poured it into drilled holes. I thought this worked well.

#5 Pro outer hub shaver. I did not like this tool, didn’t know how to use it, didn’t even know if I was using it correctly or when it started removing material if was doing more harm than good.

#6 Pro hub tool. Same as above.

I also have a drill press, band saw, jig saw, dremel, sander, and air brush. Keep all of this stuff

These are the pack rules that I will have to follow.

Rules
1. You must use an official BSA pinewood derby car kit (available from the scout shop.)

2. You may NOT file down the wheels. Cars with altered width of the wheels will be disqualified. The tread must remain flat.

3. The weight of the car may not exceed 5 oz.

4. It is recommended that you check the clearance of the car if you place any weights below the car.

5. Cars must be made during the current year.

6. The width of the car may not exceed 2 3/4".

7. The length of the car can not exceed 7 inches.

Now on to items needed,

#1 The silver bullet for the drilled axle holes and drill bits for the standard bsa axle. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif

#2 What wheels would y'all suggest to meet rule #2? Sounds pretty open as long as you do not change the width

#3 Opinions on poured lead weight vs the tungsten squares. Roughly how many squares are needed per car? depends on your car

#4 Some of the others were using oils as lube. What are the differences between DD4H's secret mix and graphite? If you can use oil then that is what I would do

 
Start with this thread in the tools section of this forum:

http://www.pinewoodderbyonline.com/post/basic-to-extream-pwd-tool-list-6989174?&trail=15
 
For tungsten cubes most of the cars in league will hold 4oz, 24 cubes.

For your polishing supplies you can still use any leftover sandpaper. The polishing compounds will improve your speed but DD4H's are preferred and proven by most of the fastest PWD racers.

For wheels it looks like you're limited to Dynasty BASX. Looks like the double step will have to remain. They will be turned on a lathe to eliminate any runout.

Oil is faster then graphite. It is cleaner and easier to apply, just 1-2 drops on the axle when installing the wheel. It lasts for nearly 100 runs vs ~10 with graphite. The only major thing you have to be careful about is getting your wheel bores completely free of any lint or debris as well as your axles.