Outer wheel prep question

Mar 17, 2013
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Hi folks,

For our car this year we used a set of Dynasty Rage wheels and they were outstanding. But if we want to go to districts, the rules state you can only use the wheels that come with the kit and only light sanding is permitted - no machining. So it looks like I should be swapping wheels.

So - I've got the inner bore polish stuff down pretty good now using the DD4H kits, but what do you all do in a case like this to achieve

Roundenss
Inner edge prep
Inner hub prep
Outer hub prep (remove step?)

I've seen all those junky tools to attempt to perform all of these functions, but I'm wondering what the real craftsmen do!

Thanks in advance!
 
agree with above!

Id use the Basx ones personally...they are the wheels that come out of the box....but at least John has taken the time to pick ones that are round and balanced and has a light sanding on the tread to ensure its even, without significant adjustments to anything on the inside....

most rules, even the strictest ive seen do allow for some coning of the inner and outer hubs however so if that's the case then even the Rage wheels easily meet those....

but if you really want to be very strict and use the wheels in the box that the body of the car came with then id agree with not touching them (don't try to do things with the DW wheel mandrel on your drill....ive tried and more times than not you get an uneven sanding or the wheel gets out of round a bit or unbalanced etc....) if you want to do something I think getting really fine sandpaper and lightly hand polish the inner hub surface and the inner rim of the tread where it will likely roll on the rail would be fine (I do that already even with the cheetahs that John sells) and then wax both the same as your inner bores...

DW has that outer hub step cutter thing....personally ive never tried it and would not want to....the idea of cutting parts off a wheel off without the use of a lathe is scary to me as TRE stated...but I do know some parents in my pack have used it and still do (at least the last 2 races)....
 
I've seen what the outer hub step remover junk thingy can do to a wheel. you are better off leaving it alone. A friend showed me his wheels before he installed. I offered him a net set out of the box. He didn't take -should have.
 
Question: How will anyone know if you are running the Rage wheels?

You think they'll notice the hub step removal? FYI, the BSA-approved Revell Chinese wheels don't even have the hub step, and they should be legal. I'd wonder if they know/could tell the difference between those and the Rages?
 
Packfanweb said:
Question: How will anyone know if you are running the Rage wheels?

You think they'll notice the hub step removal? FYI, the BSA-approved Revell Chinese wheels don't even have the hub step, and they should be legal. I'd wonder if they know/could tell the difference between those and the Rages?

The axle head sets farther in when the step is removed. Whether it gets noted depends on the knowledge of the person looking at it.
 
bracketracer said:
Packfanweb said:
Question: How will anyone know if you are running the Rage wheels?

You think they'll notice the hub step removal? FYI, the BSA-approved Revell Chinese wheels don't even have the hub step, and they should be legal. I'd wonder if they know/could tell the difference between those and the Rages?

The axle head sets farther in when the step is removed. Whether it gets noted depends on the knowledge of the person looking at it.

Well, I noticed he asked about that sorry hub tool thing, so I figured if he could use that, he could keep the Rages. I doubt they'd notice, unless it's a district where there're going to pull the wheels and inspect the axles.
 
Thanks all for the input. Sounds like leave 'em alone! I don't know if district is going to pull them or not so we'll play it safe.

John - why BASX tall? over regualr BASX? Just curious / still learning

Thanks!
 
Leave the wheels alone! We blew the doors off cars with light wheels and high tech axles by over two car lengths with standard box wheels and basic $6.95 zinc coated nongrooved axles. Excellent wheel/axle prep, proper wheel alloghment and weight placement are far more important. If you want to go the extra step, get a set of BSAX wheels but honestly, they are not needed. We were getting 3.0 runs. Next year we will be sub 3s with the same setups. We won pack and district races by following the rules and prepping better than the other cars.
 
NDD-

We had to run all stock parts in our Pck race and the District had a different set of rules.. Make sure you get all the info first and save time and headache and if you can order your stuff that John can taylor to meet your rules..

Our prep on wheels for graphite is the same thing you have going... I did prep the axles a little more agressive then our pack stated as no one checked anything but weight.. and the District Race had a better set of rules.. I did not polish them super smooth but they had a nice shine.. No burrs, removed the step, and sanded the outside of wheels as we had no time to order from John. Pledge and DD4H graphite seemed to do the trick as we were not set up for the hump track... Next year his car he makes will be going after the District winner this year...

We will have new wheels and axles from John for his race in May... Not going to say he is going to be first but with the Prep outlined, alignment, good axles and wheels he can move up allot... Again graphite you can only do so much with ...

Pap V