Pack Rules Interpretation

rookie

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Jan 29, 2012
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Hello all,

New here and new to pinewood car derby building. Just received the rules from our pack and wanted to get your opinions on the application.

I want to help my son build a fast car; in fact his priority is speed over appearance, but also want to make sure we hold true to good integrity and do not do anything that may be construed as cheating or an interpretation that is not true to the values of the scouts.

I'm asking the veterans here as I think the rules are not that well written.

For example: All cars entered shall be constructed from the "Official
Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit". Does this mean only the kit that was given to the cub by the den or other official kits?

The ones I'm the most confused about are T3 and T6 regarding wheel and axle treatment. It says that only the nails from the kit can be used, but does that mean I can but BSA polished nails from DD4H or I need to polish the nails in the box? Also, would it be cool to buy a block or am I stuck with the block from the box?

Same for wheels. Can I buy treated wheels, or am I stuck buying tools to bore and shave and true the wheels from the box? Which wheels in the DD4H site would meet the rule an give the fastest car?

Thanks so much, I'm sure I'll have many more questions. The rules are below:

GENERAL RULES: (Applies to all Race Events)

Essential Materials: All cars entered shall be constructed from the "Official
Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit" (referred to below as the kit).

Competitor Categories: All Tiger, Wolf, Bear, Webelos I, and Webelos II Cub Scouts will compete with others in the same Rank.

G-4. Attendance: The Cub Scout MUST enter his own car. This means that the Cub Scout must be present at “Inspection and Registration” to enter his car into competition. (some Pack 159 leniency to this rule on a case by case basis)

G-5. "New Work": Construction of ALL entries MUST have begun AFTER last year's (2011) Pinewood Derby Race.

G-6. Single Entry per Cub: Only one car per cub may be registered.

G-7. Inspection and Registration: Each car must pass a technical inspection before it may compete. Technical inspection and registration of cars occurs on the day of the race.

G-8. Failure to Pass Inspection: The Inspection Committee shall disqualify cars which do not meet the rules as described herein. If a car does not pass inspection, the owner will be informed of the reason his car did not pass. The owner may take the car, with the assistance of his adult partner, and make modifications required to get the car in compliance with the Race Car Design Standards. This may be done as often as needed up to the closing of Technical Inspection and Registration for that rank. Cars which fail the inspection may be allowed to race but will not be eligible for prizes nor will be allowed to advance past the first round.

G-9. Impound: No car may be altered in any way after it has been registered. After a car passes registration, it will be stored by the Pinewood Derby Race Committee until its race.

G-10. Car Design Rules Interpretation: Interpretation of the rules are at the sole discretion of the Inspection Committee Judges present during the Registration and Inspection process.

G11. Race-Day Rules Interpretation: On Race-Day, the Cub Scout must make all questions of rules interpretations and procedures to the Pinewood Derby Chairman or Race Officials promptly. Decisions of Race Officials on questions of rules interpretations and procedure may be appealed to the Pinewood Derby Chairman. All decisions of the Pinewood Derby Chairman are final. Decisions of Race Officials on questions of fact (i.e. the result of a specific race) may not be appealed beyond the Trackmaster and/or Finish Line Judges.
Note: Unsportsmanlike conduct by any participant or spectator will be grounds for expulsion from the competition and/or the race area.

II. CUB SCOUT RACE CAR DESIGN STANDARDS

T-1. Material: Race cars shall be constructed for this event from the parts contained in the Official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit (referred to below as the kit). Materials from the kit may be supplemented but not replaced.

T-2. Weight: Race cars may weigh no more than five (5) ounces (total weight) as determined on the official scales during the pre-race check-in.

T-3. Wheels and Axles: The car shall roll on the wheels from the kit. The wheels shall turn about the axle nails from the kit. The axle nails shall be firmly affixed to the wood of the car body, and MUST be placed in the 'axle grooves' in the supplied wooden block. It must be obvious to the judges that the grooves, wheels, and the nails from the kit are being used. All four wheels MUST touch the ground when placed on a level surface.

T-4. Size: Race cars may be no longer than 7 inches, or wider than 2-3/4 (2.75) inches, as determined by the official gages during the Registration and Inspection. Underside clearance of at least 3/8 (0.375) inches and inside wheel to wheel clearance of at least 1-3/4 (1.75) inches is recommended, so that the car will run on the race track. Adequate clearance is the responsibility of therace car builder. Since track timers have clearance limitations, it is requested that cars be no taller than three inches.

T-5. Weights and Attachment: Weight may be added to the car and will be
considered part of the car for purposes of all measurements. "Weight" is considered to be any material on the car that is not provided in the kit. All weight must be securely fastened to the car, by permanent glue, nails, screws, or Coin Pockets but not by "sticky substances", such as tape, or tack spray. Weights shall be passive, i.e. non-moveable, non-magnetic, non-electric, non-sticky, etc.

T-6. Wheel Treatment: Wheel treatment (hub and tread smoothing and polishing) may not result in substantial removal of mass or in reducing the wheel width from the original kit wheels. Some of the original "tread marks" on the wheel face must remain intact, i.e. apparent to the inspector. Wheels may not be machined to a beveled condition and the portion of the wheel surface that contacts the track must remain parallel to the axle.

T-7. Unacceptable Construction: The following may NOT be used in conjunction with the wheels or axles: hubcaps, washers, inserts, sleeves, bearings, or riding on springs. The following may NOT be incorporated into the construction of the car: protrusions (i.e. wires) that extend beyond the front of the car; cuts that allow the front of the car to extend beyond the starting line; or additions to the car that cause the car’s front wooden edge to not be in contact with the starting pin.

T-8. Gravity Powered: The race car may not be constructed or treated in such a way that the track's starting mechanism imparts momentum to the car. (For instance, this provision disqualifies cars with sticky substances on the front of the car and protrusions which may catch on the starting pin.)

T-9. Lubricants: Only dry lubricants such as graphite or powdered teflon "white lube" will be allowed for lubricating the wheels. Lubricants may not foul the track. Lubricants must be applied before entering the building. No lubricant may be applied to the car after it has been inspected or registered.
 
My read on your rules (I'm not an old hand here, but in my 5th year of both Cub Scout PWD and of Awana Grand Prix):

Do Your Best.

You have to use the pre-cut axle grooves. Mark a line 5/8" from the groove closest the end of the block (the back of the car). Cut the wood behind that line off, and glue it to the front of the car. The idea being you want the weight as far back as possible -- having the wheels at the very end will help support the weight, and gluing the excess wood back on the front of your car keeps the car at the 7" max length (Thus putting the weight as far back as possible).

You can use canting. That is, while all four wheels must touch, it does not say that they have to be flat. See other threads here about canting. I have no experience with that as we have a 'flat' rule.

I think the intent of the rules is to discourage purchasing finished wheels and axles from elsewhere. Technically, though, the wording of the rules would imply that buying official BSA wheels/axles at the Scout shop (like the colored wheels) would be illegal. And that just doesn't really make sense to me. So, this portion of the rules kinda becomes open to interpretation.

Have fun building the car together. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif

- Eric
 
So I found the district rules and they are a bit shorter, but the key bits are the same as below:

Material: Race cars shall be constructed for this event from the parts contained in the Official Grand Prix Pinewood Derby Kit (referred to below as the kit). Materials from the kit may be supplemented but not replaced.

This could mean that only BSA parts can be used and no after market "look alike" products or illegal wheels, etc. At the extreme literal interpretation, it could mean only the stuff in the box you get. I think a more reasonable interpretation is only BSA wheels and axles and blocks.

4. Wheels and Axles: The car shall roll on OFFICIAL BSA wheels. The wheels shall turn about the axle nails from the kit. The axle nails shall be firmly affixed to the wood of the car body, and MUST be placed in the 'axle grooves' in the supplied wooden block. It must be obvious to the judges that the grooves, wheels, and the nails from the kit are being used. All four wheels MUST touch the ground when placed on a level surface.

This is pretty clear, only BSA wheels and axles. That means polishing the nails or at the most buying BSA official speed axles. No BSA extreme or 93G axles. For me the interpretation on wheels is a bit murkier. Depending on interpretation of the material clause above, this could mean only the wheels in the box that can be sanded, honed, tried, etc or it could mean that official BSA wheels can be bought that have been machined.

7. Wheel Treatment: Wheel treatment (hub and tread smoothing and polishing) may not result in substantial removal of mass or in reducing the wheel width from the original kit wheels. Some of the original "tread marks" on the wheel face must remain intact, i.e. apparent to the inspector. Wheels may not be machined to a beveled condition and the portion of the wheel surface that contacts the track must remain parallel to the axle.

This one depends on what substantial means. Does it mean 10%, 25% or 50%? To me substantial seems around 25 to 50 %. So wheels equivalent to DD4H Rage Extreme seem OK. Nitro maybe and anything lighter, too much. Whether it's OK to buy the wheels or the tools and shave the wheels yourself is subject to the material clause.

As I said, new to all of this, so appreciate your experience. I think this is a perfect opportunity to show my son that you can only make a fast and possibly winning car if you put the work into it. This also means understanding the rules and competing hard within them. Good life lesson as well as some fun!
 
Sounds like you are stuck using only the parts that come in the kit. This gives a big advantage to kids who have a dad with a lathe. And if your district/council has less stringent rules, packs that use the district/council rules will have a big advantage over scouts from your pack at the district and council races, unless of course you build a second car for those races.
 
I'm not great with these types of rules myself, we always just get the rules in the kit. I do have a solution for G-9 though. We went up to wally world and bought a $12 metal cash box, I got some foam and cut two pieces with the car cutout in the middle. Once they teched in our car, we put it in the cashbox right in front of them, locked it and handed it to them. They really weren't to happy about it, but it kept prying eyes and hands off of our car, until race day. I've got a story to go with that, about the jealousy of the cub master, I'll save for another time. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif
 
Kinser thanks for the cash box idea, I have been worried about tech check-in for my grandsons cubscout race coming up in February as they are requiring check-in the night before the race at scoutmasters home and he will take them to race location.

Wally World here I come......
 
I should have read the sounding board area first as I see many complaining about vague district rules
confused.gif


I'll ask around the pack and make due. I'm sure I came find something at DD4H to make it go faster
ok
 
We built a car with the kit and the DD4H axle and wheel bore polishing kits. They rock, the car won pack. The kit wheels on kit nails with graphite would spin 30-35 seconds!
 
rookie said:
I should have read the sounding board area first as I see many complaining about vague district rules
confused.gif


I'll ask around the pack and make due. I'm sure I came find something at DD4H to make it go faster
ok
You'll get taken care of here. Just give it a little time. Mondays are always a little slow. I would definitely get some wheels from DD4H. http://www.shop.derbydad4hire.com/The-Dynasty-BASX-set-of-4-wheels-W-BASX.htm

As for the using the slots. I would use them to mark where to drill canted rears and then cut a slot under them just enough to see the axle ends. As for the fronts, others will have a better idea, I've never had to deal with rules like that. I guess I've had it easy.

Your rules seem somewhat unfair, because most rules allow for straightening the slots, as we all know some of them are horrible. It would be the luck of the draw as to who gets a good block and who doesn't. I don't ever ask around the pack, it raises suspicions and keys people off to what your doing, not a good combination. It's not being deceitful, it's just keeping some speed secrets to yourself.
 
dont they still print the rules in the box with a small diagram of a coping saw being used to make the slots straight? it would seem that showing that as an example would make it ok? i always read between the lines with the BSA stuff, If it started out life as a BSA part and says BSA on it, must be BSA is covered. but thats just my take on it. I agree with Kinser, the less people you talk to in the pack about it the better. most will instantly figure out you know more than them and start either watching you like a hawk looking for your speed tricks, or look for a reason to call you a cheat. both suck.
seems like some districts just want you to throw the axles in and race the raw car all in an hour just to get it over with. and that is not fair to anyone, especially the kids.
 
Ok, so I ask the pack leader for some hints and tips as this is the first time. He shows me some gadgets, I suspect Derby Worx, from reading here. One is a block jig and drill bit for drilling straight axle holes and some plates that screw to cover the slots and axles. Everyone tells me that wheel alignment is critical and that filing the burs off the axles is a must.

So it seems like the generally accepted interpretation of the rules is that cutting new slots is fine. In fact some mention turning the block over and cutting new slots in if they are off. Official BSA parts seem to be accepted as well. So as long as the axles and wheels are BSA, should be fine. Did not ask about what substantial weight reduction is on the wheels. That is subject to interpretation. It does not say no internal shaving.

They should just rewrite the &$#% rules, but that would be too much work and politics with the district.
 
Seems to me the only way to truly enforce these rules would be to only allow the kids to work on the cars at the meetings and then lock the cars up until the next meeting. That would defeat the purpose of creating a father/son project.

Other option would be post race inspection to tear down wheels and axles. Since many glue the axles in that would present another problem. For the scout races, the majority of the cars are just thrown together. We ran second at district last year and second at the troop race a few weeks ago. I picked the cars that beat us at both events from the pre-race line up without handling either car. I know how far we push the rules and still try to remain legal. I also know how much farther they can be pushed.

Point I'm trying to make is there's always a few racers that are as addicted as we are. The rest are just glad to be there.
 
Thanks everyone. I decided to use the supplied block and cut a wedge type of car that my son helped design and approved. We polished the axles with a nail file and some sandpaper and auto polish I had lying around. Also sanded the wheels round on a mandrel and cleaned the bores. We used the precut slots too.

Much to my amazement, the car won the den and came in second overall at the pack! We are headed to districts, where I expect we will get crushed.

Did not cant or steer the car with a dfw. Many other things I could have done as well from reading here. It's better we didn't win the pack. My son wants to win next year, so I made him a deal that we can try to build a winning car, if he really works hard at it and tries to understand why we do things. He's pumped, for now /images/boards/smilies/rofl.gif

Be back to ask many questions as we build our second car. Lots of room for improvement!
 
Well first time at Districts. Didn't expect about 20 packs competing. As expected, we got spanked and finished around 6th place. I noticed that the winning cars were consistently 0.03 to 0.04 faster each heat.

Need to find about 0.05 to 0.06 next year to compete at districts. Should be able to win pack if we find around 0.03, barring any DD4H fans competing
smile.gif


Hopefully it will be doable. This year we just stuck the nails in the pre-cut BSA block slots with no tuning and didn't really polish the wheel bores that much. Also, when I checked COG, it was about 1.5" in front of rear axle.

Lots of learning here and maybe next year a pack and district champ
dance
 
[font="times new roman, times, serif"]One of the secrets that was shared with me on winning was to start NOW on your next build. To many people wait until the last two weeks and are in a rush...it takes time to plan and design, time to drill and cut, time to polish, time to paint, time to tune, time to test. It also allows for any mistakes and if you purchase products you have time for shipping. The more time you spend getting these things right, typically the faster your car will be. What I am finding out now is that the more experience I gain with doing this, that better and faster I am at the above stated timely things. Good job and best of luck to you![/font]
 
Some day I will learn that lesson. I was up until 2:30a the night before the race polishing and adding graphite...

Next year, thankfully, I won't have to build a new track in the days before the race. /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif