I have been using monokote, but want to try and do a really nice paint job on the next one. I bought some of that decal paper to do a decal. Right now I am planning on doing a sealer, primer, paint, and clear. What do you guys recommend for the clear and what process/products do you use on the clear to make it shine?
Paint
- Thread starter resullivan
- Start date
Dupli-color... Is the best out there from my experience. I don't primer anything cause of the weight. I usually don't paint my cars but sometimes I decide to. I usually add the paint slow and light. Let the paint tack up.. I will apply 2-3 coats 30 min apart, then I let it sit over night and the next day. The next night I light sand with 800-1000. Then apply a few more coats and ur paint will be flawless. Let the car sit the next few days to dry and paint to cure and harden. This is my paint process..and it works well..
+1 on the Dupli-Color and I prefer the Engine Enamel with Ceramic, harder paint. Useful when you can't use spacers in the scout races.
Everyting depends on what you are trying to achieve...do you want it to look like rattle can spray paint or do you want it to look like a real custom car or bike from a show? The first way is the easiest and by far the least Xpensive! I however, suggest the brand U-POL for clear, not duplicolor or krylon. The rattle can paints will do just fine depending on your Xpectations. If you want it to not have a wood grain look and be more like metal and a custom car/bike then I suggest a much higher quality of paints and clears like the ones I use for cars and bikes, but that requires a place to do it and specialized equipment. As far as the decals go, eiher way is good to do, under the clear or on top.
I have had good results with Testors lacquer paint.
I have used Testors Model Master two part paint system, with base coat and clear over the top. The clear is required with this paint. Look in the Pictures section of the forum for "New Unlimited Car" to see an example of the finished paint.
I have also used the Testors One Coat Lacquer with and without clear over the top. This paint does not require the clear coat if you want to save a little weight. Look in the Pictures section of the forum for "New Eliminator". I did not clear coat that car to save the weight.
Also look in the Pictures section of the forum for "New Scout Car". That car was clear coated with Testors One Coat clear Lacquer.
I used Duplicolor scratch filler primer before paint on all three cars. I agree with Benji form JBD Racing, the primer is heavy.
It also helps to fill in the wood grain with a wood filler putty and sand with 800 grit before prime or paint.
I have used Testors Model Master two part paint system, with base coat and clear over the top. The clear is required with this paint. Look in the Pictures section of the forum for "New Unlimited Car" to see an example of the finished paint.
I have also used the Testors One Coat Lacquer with and without clear over the top. This paint does not require the clear coat if you want to save a little weight. Look in the Pictures section of the forum for "New Eliminator". I did not clear coat that car to save the weight.
Also look in the Pictures section of the forum for "New Scout Car". That car was clear coated with Testors One Coat clear Lacquer.
I used Duplicolor scratch filler primer before paint on all three cars. I agree with Benji form JBD Racing, the primer is heavy.
It also helps to fill in the wood grain with a wood filler putty and sand with 800 grit before prime or paint.
tmeyer said:
No, but if you dont win, at least it'll look good losing
As far as the Dupli-Color some people are using. I read it contains acrylic, isn't acrylic heavier than most paints?
Well I usually do use primer, I put on primer (i use the cheap rattle can stuff)
sand well with sanding sponges. I don't mind going through to wood in a few
spots. After real smooth I put on on last coat of primer. Then lightly sand till
smooth. I use primer till the surface is what I want. Then paint till you get the coverage you want. Then clear coat. I use way less paint with a good primer coat.
I do this with lacquer/duplicolor paints. No need to sand after primer unless
you get trash/bumps in paint.
Duplicolor works well but as previous posters said it not as hard or durable
as pro body paints. I have had problems on fdw of eating into the clear and paint
so either cover that area or use something like the fingernail polish in that area
If you can use washers.
sand well with sanding sponges. I don't mind going through to wood in a few
spots. After real smooth I put on on last coat of primer. Then lightly sand till
smooth. I use primer till the surface is what I want. Then paint till you get the coverage you want. Then clear coat. I use way less paint with a good primer coat.
I do this with lacquer/duplicolor paints. No need to sand after primer unless
you get trash/bumps in paint.
Duplicolor works well but as previous posters said it not as hard or durable
as pro body paints. I have had problems on fdw of eating into the clear and paint
so either cover that area or use something like the fingernail polish in that area
If you can use washers.
G
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Chief,Chief said:That is a super nice car!
Mine however is Not, rattle can...like I said it depends on your Xpectations.
That black and gold car looks SWEET!
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