Pathetic....truly pathetic

Feb 28, 2015
224
1
16
10
Just got my Silver bullet, so of course I had to break it in. I cut and drilled a body and put weights in. I then ran the migration test. Here's the problem: I honestly can't tell whether the wheels are migrating out or not. It seems like most of the time they do, but other times 1 wheel doesn't. Then the other wheel doesn't. Then it does it perfectly for 3-4 times in a row. I used prepped axles, but I did NOT use prepped wheels. Could that be the problem?
This is my first time checking migration, any advice and information to help out is appreciated.
 
That might be the problem. I did not tune the DFW and it is actually drifting to the right.
 
You should try just taking a scrap block and practice drilling sets of holes. See how they compares. Install the wheels with large gaps so you can easily see the wheels move I have found switching the DFW to the opposite side can give a different result.

Yes use a straight axle in the front to check migration.
 
As ngyoung said, practice makes perfect. I always sweat the back holes. Be sure your drill press spindle-chuck is perfectly square to the table surface. Once you are confident it is square double check it all. Drill some holes and see if they are perfectly square holes. Do not drill with cant untill you are confident with zero toe and zero cant. You can check the hole using a 6 inch air craft drill bit #43 and a good machinist square. Once you have that down you can put an air craft bit in each hole and they should line up along a straight line. Leave the block of wood in the Silver bullet during these checks. It's tough getting perfect holes, but John's drilled blocks are great so don't be afraid to get some.
 
I couldn't agree more PE. I've developed a technique for spot on accurate axles holes every time while using the Silver Bullet.

Eric, since I have last chatted with you, I have purchased that tram we spoke of, it's crazy accurate for setting up my fixture.

Double, triple and quadruple checking the setup after tearing down and setting back up, is dead on accurate each time. Can't wait to run these cars at Nationals.

I do realize this is only part of the equation, but the foundation of the build is where it starts.
 
Here is another cool setup that was made by Lightninboy: http://vid1289.photobucket.com/albums/b520/tbarnaby/wp_20150116_02_10_45_pro_zps1k9zkf7c.mp4

He uses a speed square with a thumb tack attached to one corner to set the front end on without using any front wheels. He uses gage pins in place of axles but you can still use axles to do the same thing. Just make sure your axles are straight. You don't want to be busting your head trying to figure why your holes aren't right when the problem all along was your test axles.
 
ngyoung said:
Here is another cool setup that was made by Lightninboy: http://vid1289.photobucket.com/albums/b520/tbarnaby/wp_20150116_02_10_45_pro_zps1k9zkf7c.mp4

Yup... got it! Nice technique.
 
GravityX said:
Eric, since I have last chatted with you, I have purchased that tram we spoke of, it's crazy accurate for setting up my fixture.

Tram????
dancelaugh
Sounds intriguing. Care to share
AddEmoticons08013
?
 
Honestly, unless you're some master wood worker, you probably wont drill it perfect the first few times. It takes a while to get used to. Prep'd wheels and axles are a must when testing. Kind of like the old saying, you play how you practice. Also, the wheels can sometimes get you. You may have to switch the wheels around on the car and see if that helps. If you dont see them migrate out over a foot, your drill is off. Dont worry about if the car goes start or not when checking for migration, doesnt matter. Make sure you do have some weight on the rear of the car when testing.
 
OCDerbyDad said:
No migration problems here. Drilled perfect every time. Then again...I make my own tools.

Dang, we have an anomaly! Wish I had a perfect drill everytime since drill 1. Then again, I don't make my own tools, but I also race in the NPWDRL
 
Getting the angles right is trickier with a drill press jig than it is with a set-angled drill block. Lots of variables that can go wonky when the drill press is in the equation.

The benefit, of course, is that once you figure out the drill press/block/bullet setup, you can drill any angle that you want, as opposed to just a set one.
 
OCDerbyDad said:
I'm just pointing out that you should discover new ways to drill and not just depend on one such tool, ODD. How often do you really change your angles, VK? New things are made every day that improve upon previous items; it's called engineering. I don't have to race NPWDRL to see migration. I was pointing out migration, not speed. He who is resistant to change, is destined to perish.

No worries, man, you're preaching to the choir (with me, at least). I won't even talk about my -ahem- axles, and angles.

Different situations call for different solutions. I think your average league-racer would be well served by one of your drill blocks, or one of Goat Boy's. Situations calling for adjustable angles would be, say, rules that disallow visible camber, or perhaps requiring "four on the floor."
 
OCDerbyDad said:
I'm just pointing out that you should discover new ways to drill and not just depend on one such tool, ODD. How often do you really change your angles, VK? New things are made every day that improve upon previous items; it's called engineering. I don't have to race NPWDRL to see migration. I was pointing out migration, not speed.

He who is resistant to change, is destined to perish.

I have all the tools for drilling axle holes and I have tried them all. And I have messed with other angles. That's the benefit of the block vs goat boy drill jig.