I have been making practice runs all week, with the help of Kinser I got the wiggle out. Thanks. With all of the testing the car has about 50 runs on it, do I need to re prep the wheels and axels with Johns products and Red Rocket or is it better to have that time on those parts? Also the more I run it I notice the graphite only works for for about 5 runs then it drops of 2 hundredths. Is there some way to hold that graphite in there longer?
Re prep
- Thread starter Mrouhselang
- Start date
I wouldn't re-prep, but 2 hundo seems like a lot of a drop after 5 runs... maybe burnish... graphite sucks.
Thanks 5 kids, I think I might be doing the burnishing process incorrect, can you explain or point me to a previous post for this process? Thanks your awesome
I polish a rod a little smaller than the bore and I put it in the bore with graphite... I grab both sides of the rod and roll the wheel like a wheelbarrow back and forth on a hard surface.... add more graphite.... repeat.... then blow out all the excess graphite and clean the outside of the wheel... then install on the car by putting axle in wheel, adding graphite and then assembling into body.
I like maxV graphite or DD4H for burnishing and then DD4H or Hob-E- lube for running.
I like maxV graphite or DD4H for burnishing and then DD4H or Hob-E- lube for running.
After you do your axle and hub work and before you install them on your car. Match up your axles to each wheel and don't mix them up. Mark the axle head with a sharpie to be installed in the 12 o'clock position. Then lube up each axle and wheel assembly. Then hold the axle in the wheel where it's going to ride. Make sure the mark is held in the 12 o'clock position throughout the next step. Then with a little pressure roll the wheel up and down your dirty jeans on top of your leg about 40 times. Then relube and install the assembly to your car with the mark in the 12 o'clock position. This burnishes the hub and mates the actual part of the axle that rides on the hub together.
The rules don't say I can't use oil, last year was our first year and after asking if dry lube was the only lube allowed the reply was everyone just uses dry lube that's kinda an agreement we have?? If I tried oil is it as simple as just cleaning everything up good and applying oil?
- Nov 24, 2011
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I guess I better not, I don't think it would be the right thing to do if they have a verbal agreement of dry lube only. Thanks Kinser for the info on the wiggles got the wiggles tuned right out. I just need a little something more, we run the RA wheels so I know they are a little heavier and not as quick as BSA wheels we got our times down to consistent 3.111 with everything stock, but I just need it to stay there some how after 5 runs we are back up to 3.30?
Thanks for the help guys, we picked up for the race big time. Went from 3.111 to 3.065's race day. We cleaned house next closes car out of 61 cars ran 3.115. Now off to the state race April, 11-12 th.
- Nov 24, 2011
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Thanks Kinser sounds like you had a good weekend yourself, looks like another month of prep and someone is going to be in trouble
I have a set of measuring pins (to measure the bore size).
Does any one know what the best gap is (between the bore and the axle)?
Does any one know what the best gap is (between the bore and the axle)?
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