Rear dominant wheel toe out

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RDW toe out -/images/boards/smilies/frown.gifother side is a perfect 90
 
On one hand, it makes sense in that it would help turn the car and keep the DFW against the rail. On the other, it seems that it would be forcing extra friction on the car (under the main weight, no less!), thus slowing it down.

I would wager that it is slower.
 
I have never heard of anything other than keeping the rear wheels absolutely parallel.
That is one of the main purposes of using the SilverBullet (or Block). You set you car on it, install the rear wheels and axles, then sight check that the distance of each wheel (front and back) is from the block. I.e. they should be absolutely parallel.
I often also measuring caliper to assure front and back not even 1/1000 out of parallel. To do this, you must temporarily do something (e.g. push the wheel and axle tight against the body) to assure there is no slop between axle and wheel bore.
 
Opa, never considered that technique but I'm definitely gonna try it. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Bore a small slot in the bottom of the car where the axles end. You can get a screw driver in there and push out from the end of the axle . DO NOT PULL IT OUT BY GRABBING THE WHEEL !
 
Corvid Racing said:
Ah good idea!!/images/boards/smilies/idea.gif

Does this method work for a 1/4" axle strut- in regards to the wood not flexing or breaking? This will be my first car using the strut setup.
Long as your using sugar pine or poplar you should be fine.
AddEmoticons08013
I usually pull on the wheel or use a needle nose pliers to pull on the head of the nail.
 
My dragula street rod has axle carriers made from square basswood rod. You can make them easily using the silver bullet. You can use the silver bullet and a sliding square to help align them with your chassis.