Remember I'm learning....

[NeedforSpeed]

Ok, you guys have been a great help and I think we are on are way to building the fastest car we have ever built

. There is something that we have been doing for the last couple of years. We have had pretty good results but everyone is starting to catch up. I'm not sure if this step is helping us or hurting us. So I wanted to see what you guys think. We have to use the axles and wheels(we cant sand them either) out of kit or one with a BSA logo on them. So we use the wheels out of the box and the revell axles. We always taper the heads of the axles but after reading a couple post on here I'm not sure if that is a good idea. Here is what they look like.

I'm afraid we doing more damage than good. Since joining this forum I'm learning that a lot of things I knew were wrong.....Even my son is saying "dad we should look that up on that site". Please be kind when commenting on my ignorance /images/boards/smilies/wink.gif

 

[Guest]

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[TRE]

if you arent using a lathe i would leave them alone

 

[NeedforSpeed]

I am not lathing them. So we are going to leave it alone and coat that whole outer hub area with Red Rocket and then burnish with graphite. I think when we use our hack tapering we cause damage to the outer hub. I took some wheels off a car we ran and the whole lip on the outer hub was gone.

 

[ngyoung]

To taper the axles you don't need a lathe. Wheels you do. Tapering the head of your axle on a regular drill is fine. You still need to polish it though if you do. Is the worry that you file them to get the taper but don't sand it because sanding is against the rules?

 

[ngyoung]

Didnt read your second comment. Yes whatever you are doing to taper is shaving plastic off the wheels. If you're already reshaping the axle head I don't see why you can't polish just that area as well. At least polish it back to the same level it was before you filed.

 

[davet]

I've looked at Revell axles with a magnifying glass and I believe they already have sufficient taper with a small flat at the base of the head. Should be fine without any work. If you can't sand them are you allowed to polish them? Revell axles can be very smooth with just polish.

 

[Guest]

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[OPARENNEN]

This is what I do with one of my grandsons who has similar rules.
I used the Revell axles. I bought 100 BSA wheels in bulk (yeah, I know it's overkill), and selected several sets who's running surface looked the best.
Then I took the best ones and put them on the DerbyWorx (and other places) magnetic balancing rig. The 4 I selected, still needed a bit of balancing (nail polish, or striping tape, or slight Dremmel touch on the inside heavy side).
THEN, I chucked them on my drill (with a tight axle so they don't spin, even a toothpick), and polished the running surface with a soft cloth coated with DD4H's Axle Polish #1 (I think that John's new Axle Polish (paste), or even the wheel bore polish #1 would work).

I think a deviation of this method might also work by buying a bunch of wheels from Hobby Lobby or Michaels. They are pretty cheap.

However, DD4H's axle and wheel bore prep is still absolutely necessary.

 

[NeedforSpeed]

OC Derby Dad...yes I used the pro axle press to get the taper. The problem I have is getting the diameter where the taper starts perfectly round. I feel like by doing this I am creating more of a problem. I feel like the machined edge of the original axle is better even though it may contact more of the outer wheel hub. I am pretty much a newbie though so what do I know..../images/boards/smilies/smile.gif