My son is a tiger scout and I would like to help him do well in the pinewood derby. I am having him do all the sanding, painting, and most important to him is putting stickers on the car. Here are the rules that are important:
[list type=decimal][*]The Pinewood Derby Car is to be constructed from the materials in the Official BSA Cub Scout Pinewood Derby Car Kit, Item #17006. The original nails in the kit must be used for the axles. Nothing may be added to the racer except: weights, paint, and other purely decorative items. The plastic official BSA wheels (must have BSA insignia on them) may not be modified except for the removal of small burrs (as described in the kit instructions) and the addition of (again) purely decorative items. [*]The two pre-cut slots provided on the block of wood in the kit are the required location for placing the official BSA nail axles into the car. This is not optional. [*]The total overall width must NOT exceed 2-3/4 inches and the total overall length must not exceed 7 inches. The wheel track must be between 1-3/4 inches and 1-7/8 inches. The clearance between the bottom of the car (including added-weights) and the flat surface on which the car is placed must be at least 3/8 inches. The car’s height may be no more than 6 inches as measured from a flat surface to the highest point on the vehicle. The car must not hang up on the track during the race. [*]The use of spring or shocks, wheel bearings, bushings, washers, or starting devices is strictly prohibited. The Derby Car MUST be freewheeling.[/list type=decimal]
Here are comments from the official:
1) Use any exotic lubricant as long as it is dry at check in. IE no liquid dripping or for the matter graphite. The goal is not to ruin the track.
2) Fenders are good as long as they are within the width measurements.
3) Wheels can be sanded but must be original BSA wheels. There is no weight measurement or thickness measurement. For example I am sure some wheels are slightly taller or shorter than others.
4) Axles need to be original and can be sanded. No grooves in the axles. Inspection will be visual. Most important is not to use bearings.
5) Axles need to be in the slotted location, but the slot can be filled. Ideally be able to see axle point. I will drill peep holes.
So I am considering the following:
It seems pinewood derby rules have a ton of grey area and I am concerned they do not check enough to enforce the rules.
My assumption is if I run graphite, official axles and wheels he will be at a disadvantage. Someone running oil, cheetah and 92x will win by a large margin. Thanks for any help/suggestions. I didn't realize there was so much information.
[list type=decimal][*]The Pinewood Derby Car is to be constructed from the materials in the Official BSA Cub Scout Pinewood Derby Car Kit, Item #17006. The original nails in the kit must be used for the axles. Nothing may be added to the racer except: weights, paint, and other purely decorative items. The plastic official BSA wheels (must have BSA insignia on them) may not be modified except for the removal of small burrs (as described in the kit instructions) and the addition of (again) purely decorative items. [*]The two pre-cut slots provided on the block of wood in the kit are the required location for placing the official BSA nail axles into the car. This is not optional. [*]The total overall width must NOT exceed 2-3/4 inches and the total overall length must not exceed 7 inches. The wheel track must be between 1-3/4 inches and 1-7/8 inches. The clearance between the bottom of the car (including added-weights) and the flat surface on which the car is placed must be at least 3/8 inches. The car’s height may be no more than 6 inches as measured from a flat surface to the highest point on the vehicle. The car must not hang up on the track during the race. [*]The use of spring or shocks, wheel bearings, bushings, washers, or starting devices is strictly prohibited. The Derby Car MUST be freewheeling.[/list type=decimal]
Here are comments from the official:
1) Use any exotic lubricant as long as it is dry at check in. IE no liquid dripping or for the matter graphite. The goal is not to ruin the track.
2) Fenders are good as long as they are within the width measurements.
3) Wheels can be sanded but must be original BSA wheels. There is no weight measurement or thickness measurement. For example I am sure some wheels are slightly taller or shorter than others.
4) Axles need to be original and can be sanded. No grooves in the axles. Inspection will be visual. Most important is not to use bearings.
5) Axles need to be in the slotted location, but the slot can be filled. Ideally be able to see axle point. I will drill peep holes.
So I am considering the following:
- Railrider predrilled body, no tunning
- Fenders
- DD4H Oil since the officials says use any exotic lubricant. He told me on the phone as long is nothing is going to drip onto the track it is good. It has to be dry when inspected.
- I would assume BASX wheels is what is intended. But it doesn't look like they are going to check weights or diameters. Would cheetah or cheetah extreme work? I don't want DQ, but I don't want to find out several other cars are playing on a different level.
- Axles same question. BSA Official Speed Axles is what I assume is intended. But will they know if I use 92x with BSA point?
It seems pinewood derby rules have a ton of grey area and I am concerned they do not check enough to enforce the rules.
My assumption is if I run graphite, official axles and wheels he will be at a disadvantage. Someone running oil, cheetah and 92x will win by a large margin. Thanks for any help/suggestions. I didn't realize there was so much information.
