Setting Wheel Gaps

[scoutdad]

First off I would like to thank everyone on this forum for the wealth of information provided. It is places like this most pinewood derby builders should visit instead of all the misinformation provided elsewhere on the internet. This is my sons last year in scouts and his last derby and we want to go out on top.

I know most of the "tools" that are sold to set the wheel gaps set the gaps to big. I have read use a credit card but I think that is even still to wide to set the gaps most here recommend for .15-.20 for gaps? Is there something around the house I can use to set this (such as the cardboard from the box that the derby kits come in) or something else? I know John sells a gap gauge but the pack race is next weekend and too be honest I have spent enough money on derby stuff ( The Block, drill press, DD4H wheel bore and axle kits and not to mention tungsten). I plan on checking out my local hobby store as I have read they sometimes sell sheets of plastic that come in .15, .20 thickness.

The car is set up as a three wheeled rail runner with the rears canted and a 5" wheelbase.COG is at 3/4
" Should the rears be gapped differently from the DFW?

Thanks,
Todd

 

[Crash Enburn]

Business cards. I believe two of them together is the recommendation.

 

[TRE]

As tight as you can so wheels don't rub..just eyeball it

 

[Samsill]

Rookie question here, but the "gap" you're referring to is the space between the car frame and the wheels after you've mounted them. Yes? I didn't realize how close some get.

 

[King Racing]

Most of the clear plastic packaging you get when you buy something at the store is around .010 that is good for the rear if your running oil. you can use that and a couple thicknesses of paper to get close to .015