Speed Difference

Dec 16, 2013
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I was wondering how much difference would there be between these two cars:

1) A good standard pinewood derby
Original block out of the kit cut into a wedge to make it easy
Original wheels sanded to true the wheel. No polishing of the bore
3 wheels that are all straight aligned, pretend he could push them in the original slots straight
Original nails prepped
Lead weight
Graphite

2) Derby Dad equipped
One of his pre drilled kits
3 wheel back wheels canted
dfw using a bent axle
BSA Official Speed Axle replicas - Prepped like he recommends
Dynasty Rage wheels - prepped per DVD oil

Basically if a scout did a great job using the original kit how far behind would he be?
 
A few of the guys here could probably have either one sprout wings and fly to the finish.

It is a ton of education.

It could be a year or maybe two of college!

I have learned so much in such a short time.
 
We are actually planning on making 4 cars this year. A scout car, a SS car for npwdrl, an outlaw car with razor wheels and needle axles, and finally a car like number 1. I am very interested to see how well it does.
 
I was just wondering the difference. I personally feel that a person just opening the kit is at a pretty large disadvantage unless they are a machinist/research.
 
I have not tested this, but this is where I think the biggest advantage lies:

1) Rail rider
2) Wheels
3) Tungsten
4) Cant
5) Axles

A rail rider alone will be much faster, then take into account 1 gram wheels vs 2.7 gram wheels. It wouldn't even be close.
 
Plug and Play kit with speed axles and regular out of box BSA wheels and regular (non-pro) prep outdistances your #1 by 3-4 car lengths. The pre-drilled cant and steer is a huge advantage over even book-based prep.
 
This is not exactly what you asked for, but it's what I had. The red car on the right is a stock BSA block cut to a thin wedge, stock axles using the slots in the block, stock completely unmodded wheels mounted straight up per our Scout rules. Graphite lube. It does have tungsten weights (cylinders, not cubes 'cause I had a coupon for Hobby Lobby and they were only $3/oz!). The black car is a NPWDRL Unlimited, ran 2.88x's at the last event. The blue car is a Street Stock, it ran 2.98x's in November. The last car is my SS wheel test car, hence the wide wheel mixed with the razors.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxF5A5VevwQ

Looks like a full car length between the SS and the Scout car and about 2 1/2 lengths behind the Unlimited to me!
 
nice set up.

the race was much closer than i thought it would be.
 
DerbyDad4Hire said:
The longer the track the worse the beating. All you have to do with the kit is cant the rear axles in the slots, narrow the front and bend the front axle and make a rail runner. It will be real fast if the rear axles are pretty straight.

You're right on both counts (of course)! I did take an extra nail, polished it, bent it, and stuck it in the DFW and it ran right at the SS's back bumper. But that wouldn't pass our rules with the wheel tilted.

chennenmann, Keep in mind that the SS car has 2g wheels, the Dynasty Rage you spec'd is a bit heavier by .3-.4g, so it would be a little closer.
 
If you pause it right at the color transition of the different woods the unlimited is about 1.5-2 cars ahead of the SS, and around 6 ahead of the Scout. And as stated the longer the track the greater the distance will be. Cool test.