Street Rod kit

[Craven]

I was looking at building a street rod when I went to the store and look at the models there were three different skill levels of models level 1-3. I was wondering what skill level do most of the pros use? I understand skill level 1 is a snap together and skill level 3 is everything in separate pieces and have to glue together. How detailed do these cars get as far as paint jobs...?

 

[Crash Enburn]

It's hit or miss. Me, I go for all the detail. Others, just for speed. I have mirrors on my cars, others don't even put the headlight buckets in behind the lenses in an effort to save that microgram. (My upcoming SRs will not have the exterior mirrors, but will still be fully detailed otherwise). A lot of guys are using Funny Car bodies , so there's not much detail to be had.

A side by side of two Lamborghinis in different levels of detail at the March NPWDRL race (at the 55s mark). The white one is 1:24 scale, green 1:25.

(I should not have sent in the green Lambo as the rear wheel was fouled)

A Skill 1 (Snap-Tite) kit will use thicker (read: heavier) plastics throughout — so you'll have less ability to add weight where you want it. A Skill 3 or 4 may have more details that require more skill to mount (like lining up the rear spoiler on a Viper ACR).

A "streetside" model (like AMT's Showroom Replicas series) don't have opening hoods, so that's one fewer fiddly bit to deal with.

Other than that, though, the world is your oyster (as long as that oyster is <= 8.25" long).

Feel free to hit me up with any questions. I ain't fast (yet), but my cars do look good.

 

[Stonecold Racing]

I would recommend level 2 or 3. To me they seem more realistic with more detail.

Listen to whatever Crash Enburn says because his cars look FANTASTIC!

 

[TWarwick07]

I have a dodge challenger body waiting to be built, Just havent figured out how to best attach the model to the wood frame???

I know people recommend using balsa but I kind of need a more visual how to guide

 

[Crash Enburn]

We've been over this before, Warwick....

A quick look at body mounting techniques

Kinda wordy, and a little dated (I've revised my chassis builds)

 

[TWarwick07]

We've been over this before, Warwick....

A quick look at body mounting techniques

Kinda wordy, and a little dated (I've revised my chassis builds)

Ah I remember that thread, Going to print out some coupons and hit the hobby shop this weekend

 

[Craven]

OK new question does it have to be a production car? Can you get a model of something like the Batmobile or something similar. I know I have seen pictures of speed racers car. As long as it falls in the sizes rules?

 

[Crash Enburn]

It's been pretty loosey-goosey about what the model is. The rules say "1/24 or 1/25 scale models", so it's kinda hard to verify sizes on a cartoon car. The Mach 5 and the Mystery Machine have both run here. The cars have to have roofs, by the way, so take that into account with a Mach 5 model. Also, the Mach 5 has a very pointy nose, so can be hard to stage.

Personally, I'd like to clamp down on what cars are eligible, but until we get this class to grow, it'll stay fairly eclectic.

 

[Craven]

Yeah I was looking at the 1989 Batmobile but it also has a point in the center so that probably also be hard to Stage. I may have to look at something different and also I would hate to have a awesome car and then the rules change on me. so I may just go with a production car.

 

[Crash Enburn]

I kinda doubt that the Batmobile (pictured) would be shorter than 8.25"

As to any rule changes, there wouldn't be any until after the fire series.

 

[Craven]

Yeah I guess I should have looked at it before I was thinking about it it's like 10 1/2 in. That's definitely not going to work

 

[~JBD RACING~]

I have a brand new GT 40 model for sale and a 2004 Vette model for sale. The vette has won many races, and the GT40 has never been on the track yet.. it's a full bottom car with fenders and aero shields. Chassis is very light

 

[Craven]

OK new question, I have started work on my street rod (2010 Dodge Challenger) my model did not come with driver and passenger side windows. I was thinking about gluing some plastic to make it look like Windows is that what most do or do they just leave it open? The rules also say windshields need to be installed if the front and rear glass pieces are hooked together can you cut them apart and glue them in or do you have to leave them as they come in the kit? Also was watching some videos and most of the street rods windows were black out are they just painting the inside or they putting something in the window?

 

[Crash Enburn]

I have started work on my street rod (2010 Dodge Challenger)

Excellent!!! Woot!
Side windows are not required (Street Rod Rules). However, it is more aero to have them in place. I save and use the clear plastic from various packaging as my side glass.

The point of most of the rules regarding the build of the car is to avoid hacking up the kit for an aero advantage (like cutting off the roof and front/rear windows to call your Challenger a "custom roadster"). Do what you'd like to fit the windows in place.

If you want to black out your windows, spray paint the inside of them black. I've begun collecting dark styrofoam from KFC carryout packaging, and have used it to cover the interior of my kits so I can leave the windows clear. Others have just left the windows clear with a view to the chassis. Again, I lean much more heavily to the "show" side of these builds.

A sample of a recent build as an example (I'd like to show more, but...):

BTW, I'm currently building a 2008 Challenger.

 

[Craven]

Thank you, Crash Enburn that has been a lot of help. Is there a chance you can show me a picture of your side windows so I can have an example to get ideas from? I understand if you're not willing to show those secrets and I guess I will have to start eating more KFC

 

[Crash Enburn]

There's no secret to it. I just take piece of my "side glass stock" and trace the window onto it, then trim-to-fit. I leave tabs above and below for gluing (fore and aft are usually very tight tolerances. I glue it in with some rubbery super-gluey stuff. (Loctite Gel?).
I recommend you glue the snot out of the side glass as the temptation when picking these up is to do so by the roof at the side windows. The first time I submitted the Calliente (my avatar) it came back with a side window detached. No harm, no foul. Just made me mindful of it for future builds.

I found a picture of a friend's build. You can see his side glass:

I guess I will have to start eating more KFC

Chicken Fried Steak w/ Mashed Potatoes, Cole Slaw, and a Biscuit for $2.99 on Tuesdays.

 

[Craven]

Thank you most of the time pictures make it so much easier to understand

 

[Craven]

Okay I came up with a new question on the NPWDRL rules for street rods it says no use of bearings / bushings. Are Delton washers considered bushings in between the wheel and the car? I know there was a question about this I read somewhere but I'm not sure it was for this class but I can't find it so when were you asking.

Also I see on the national ruleset it does not say bushings it just says bearings.

http://www.derbydad4hire.com/Delrin-Washers-W-WAS.htm

 

[Craven]

I work on helicopters and this would be considered a bushing where I work so that's why I asked

 

[Crash Enburn]

Yes! A question I'm not totally sure of the answer to!

I believe that the spacers/washers/delrin pads are totally okay for the SRs. I believe that "bushings" refers to an insert that goes in the wheel bore allowing a fat wheel to ride on needle axles (or similar configuration -- something in the bore).

DerbyDad4Hire? Quicktimederby?