Testors One Coat and Super Gule

[epop raceing]

So After Sanding my car down smooth and gluing the fenders on I say ok time to paint so I can get this thing off to the races. I used Testors One Coat spray paint and it was looken good when I left it to dry. When I came back to give it a once over. It all lumped up and bubbly. So I say to my self Whiskey Tango Foxtrot. I use this paint just last year and shook it well Just don't know what happened. Could it have been the super glue fumes or is that just the crazy trying to think for me again? Anyone Else had the issue or should I just take the hint and wait to Scouters Nationals and take more time??

Epop

 

[DNA RACING]

while i havent used super glue with the one shot, i have used alot of that paint and never had a problem with it being bubbly or lumpy. super glue reacts differently with different paints, might just be a side effect on the one shot.

 

[Downslope]

If it is hot and humid almost any paint will do that could be the problem.

 

[SoGone]

Not sure what kind of primer coat you used, But I use testor all the time. I found that some primers just do not jive well with the paint and will produce what your talking about. Maybe the paint was good but the primer not. Usually once the super glue is dry it has expelled all it fumes. I also use a "degreaser/cleaner" on my primer coat before painting too. that seems to help cut down on contamination problems and paints lay down better.
Bummer on the paint, good luck

 

[epop raceing]

Thank Y'all I keep all that in mind for next time.

Epop

 

[Guest]

HERE ARE SOME TIPS FOR PAINTING WITH RATTLE CAN PAINTS OF ANY KIND.
1. MAKE SURE THE BODY OF WOOD IS DRY ITSELF BEFORE YOU PUT ANY SEALER OR PRIMER ON IT. IN OTHER WORDS, ONCE YOU SHAPE THE CAR, EVEN WITH SSG PINE; IT IS GONNA EXPOSE "NEW WOOD"..LET IT SIT OVER NIGHT..THIS WILL ALLOW THE NEWLY EXPOSED WOOD TIME TO CURE A BIT.
2. I USE ELMERS CARPENTRY PUTTY AND A BOWL OF WATER. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO (USING A FINGER) SCRAP OUT A SMALL CHUNK OF PUTTY WITH YOUR FINGER, DIP IT INTO THE WATER, AND IT WILL SPREAD EASIER AND SMOOTHER. MAKE SURE TO LET THIS DRY FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS.
3. STARTING WITH 320 GRIT SAND PAPER, START SMOTHING THE RIDGES ON THE DRIED PUTTY DOWN ON THE BODY MAKING SURE TO BE CAREFUL NOT TO SAND THROUGH THE PUTTY DOWN TO THE WOOD. FOLLOWED BY 600, 800, 1500 GRITS TO GET THE PUTTY SUPER SMOOTH. IF YOU DO WIND UP WITH SOME PLACES THAT YOU EXPOSED THE WOOD, SIMPLY DIP YOUR FINGER INTO YOUR PUTTY TO GET A DAB OF IT AND SMOOTH IT ON AS IF YO WERE COVERING UP A NAIL HOLE. THEN BECAUSE YOU DID NOT USE ANY WATER THIS TIME, IT WILL DRY PRETTY FAST..RESAND THAT AREA AND YOU SHOULD BE READY CLOSE TO PAINTING.
4. USING ANY TYPE OF COMPRESSED AIR, BLOW OFF THE CAR. DOUBLE CHECK THE CAR FOR ANY PLACES THAT AREN'T SMOOTH..AND IF THERE ARE, RESAND THOSE AREAS AS WELL, BLOW THE CAR OFF AGAIN.
5. TIME TO PAINT. LET'S ASSUME EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD AND READY FOR PAINT.

 

[Guest]

5. CON'T.. NOW IS THE TIME TO DECIDE , IF YOU ALREADY HAVEN'T, WHAT COLOR IS THE CAR GONNA BE. LET'S SAY IT'S GOING TO BE A LIGHT COLOR(YELLOW,SILVER,GREY.ECT.) IF YOU WANT THESE LIGHTER COLORS TO POP, YOU WOULD WANT TO USE A WHITE OR SILVER COAT OF PAINT AS YOUR BASE. MAKE SURE TO TAPE OFF ANY AREA OF THE CAR THAT WILL NO REQUIRE PAINT..PAINT IS WEIGHT..AREAS SUCH AS THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR, AND THE AREA WHERE YOU WOULD BE PUTTING FENDERS ON(THIS IS FOR THOSE OF US WHO PAINT THE BODY BEFORE HANGING FENDERS TO ALLOW SOME ADJUSTING OF THE FENFER DURING TESTING).

 

[Guest]

6. OK, THIS IS WHAT YOU WERE ACTUALLY WANTING TO KNOW, THATS WHY I SPLIT THIS LONG POST UP. THIS IS WHAT I DO WITH RATTLE CAN PAINT BEFORE I SPRAY IT. I SHAKE THE CAN FOR 1 MINUTE AND 13 SECONDS (DONT'T ASK) THEN I LAY THE CAN ON ITS SIDE AND USING A HAIR DRYER, I AIM IT AT THE BOTT0M OF THE CAN AND USINF THE LOWEST HEAT SETTING, I WILL LET THE HAIR DRYER HEAT UP THE CAN IN 2 MINUTE INCREMENTS. AFTER EACH 2 MINUTE INCREMENT, i WILL SHAKE THE CAN FOR ABOUT 10 SEC..DO THIS UNTIL THE CAN IS ALMOST TO HOT TO HOLD, BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO OVERHEAT THE CAN OF PAINT, YOU DON'T WANT THE NOZZLE TO EXPLODE OFF THE TOP. THE MAIN THING IS THIS, WITH SPRAY PAINTS, THE WARMER THEY ARE, THEY BECOME "THINNER", EASIER TO MIX WHILE SHAKING THEM AND MOST IMPORTANTLY.. EASIER TO SPRAY. WITH SPRAY PAINT THAT IS WARMED UP IT WILL LAY ON THE CAR MUCH EASIER, AND IT WILL DRY FASTER.
I WILL PUT 2 MEDIUM COATS ON THE CAR, THEN LET IT SIT FOR 15-30 MINUTES AND IF ALL LOOKS GOOD..NO PITS, FISH EYES, BUT JUST LOOKS PRETTY SMOOTH, I WILL WET SAND THE CAR WITH 1000 GRIT, THEN 2000 GRIT. THIS WILL LEAVE THE CAR LOOKING DULL. BUT IT WILL ALSO REVEAL LOW SPOTS. BY THAT, I MEAN YOU MAY SEE LITTLE PLACES THAT ARE SHINNY, WHICH IS OK UNLESS THE ENTIRE CAR LOOKS 50/50..HALF DULL HALF SHINNY(IF THIS IS THE CASE, WIPE THE CAR WITH A PREP WIPE AND SHOOT ANOTHER COAT OF PAINT, LET IT DRY..RE WET SAND) THIS WILL ELIMINATE ENOUGH OF TH LOW SPOTS TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP.
CLEARCOAT: WARNING...IF YOU ARE NEW AT PAINTING, KEEP THIS IN MIND..USE THE SAME BRANDS, AND TYPES OF PAINT!!! FOR EXAMPLE, IF YOU START WITH A DUPLI-COLOR ACRYLIC ENAMEL AS THE BASE COAT, STICK WITH IT, DO NOT PLAY MIX AND MATCH..MEANING LAQUER BASE, ACRYLIC ENAMEL COLOR COAT, AND ACRYLIC LAQUER CLEARCOAT. THIS WILL SCREW YOUR PAIN JOB UP.
BACK TO CLEAR, YOU HAVE PAINTED YOUR CAR, WETCANDED IT AND ALL LOOKKS FINE AND DULL. WIPE IT DOWN WITH A PREP WIPE, BLOW IT OFF WITH COMPESSED AIR AND SHOOT 3 OR 4 LIGHT COATS OF CLEAR. PROVIDED ALL WENT WELL UP TO NOW, YOU SHOULD HAVE A PAINT JOB THAT LOOKS VERY NICE AND SHINNY.
ONE THING I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT IS OF IMPORTANCE, MAKE SURE TO EITHER PUT TOOTHPICKS OR OLD AXLES IN THE AXLE HOLES. IF YOU USE OLD AXLES MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE SAME SIZE OR A TICK SMALLER THAN WHAT WILL BE USED ON THE CAR WHEN YOU ARE ASEMBLING IT TO RACE.

 

[epop raceing]

WOW!!

I am gonna have to take a nap now. My brain hurts. That was a lot of great Info!

Thanks DONELSON!!!!

 

[Guest]

YOU ARE MORE THAN WELCOME EPOP!! I'M GLAD TO BE OF SOME HELP, THE BAD THING IS, I POSTED A SHORT VERSION

!! YOU CAN AND WILL GET THE HANG OF MAKING A CAR LOOK VERY NICE!! I HAVE THE "MAKE IT LOOK GOOD" PART FIGURED OUT, NOW IT'S BACK TO THE LAB TO MAKE THEM GO FASTER!!

 

[OPARENNEN]

Just a point -- I stopped painting any of my cars. Too Messy, and other than looks, no advantage. With the addition of clearcoat, too heavy.
I use Monokote or Econokote instead. (for model airplane wings).
No more teflon washers -- Just put one of above on bottom and roll up on the edges. the E or M kotes are as good as teflon in my tests, and a lot less trouble.
Also -- If you want to change colors, OR if first application irons on crooked, just heat up, tear off, and re-apply.
Also, fenders stick on and tear off just fine.
AND the finish is very shiny.
Many other advantages which I won't mention at this time.
OPA

 

[Guest]

UH OHH..FINALLY A FRIENDLY DEBATE

TO PAINT, OR NOT TO PAINT ; THAT IS THE QUESTION !! OPA MAKES SOME GREAT POINTS, BUT I BELIEVE IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING WITH THE PAINT..YOU CAN BE JUST AS FAST OR FASTER THAN THE UNPAINTED CARS. AND WITH WHEELS/AXLES AND FENDERS ON THE CAR..IT CAN BE JUST AS LIGHT AS AN UNPAINTED CAR..WITHOUT "BANJOING" (REMOVING A SECTION OF THE BODY, USUALLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CAR, AND REPLACING IT WITH BALSA OR WHATEVER) IT. I WILL SAY THIS THOUGH..TO YOU RACERS WHO DO NOT PAINT YOUR CARS, BE CAREFUL NOT TO RECEIVE A SLOWER TIME THAN YOU SHOULD..ALWAYS PUT A DARK COLORED LINE UNDERNEATH THE NOSE OF THE CAR WITH A SHARPIE SO THAT IT WILL TRIP THE TIMER. THE SSG PINE WE USE IS SOMETIMES LIGHT IN COLOR AND DOESN'T TRIP THE BEAM ON THE TIMER, JOHN WILL VOUCH FOR ME ON THAT ONE. BUT IT IS A PERSONAL PREFERENCE, CARS WIHOUT PAINT HAVE HAD SUCCESS AS HAVE THOSE WITH PAINT. TAKE CARE!!

 

[Spirit Racing]

I will vouch for the dark color on the bottom of the car or at least the front nose. I sharpie the front under nose on all my lightcolored cars. I have built some stealth cars in the past that could not be seen at the finish line. And always a dark color on the bottom fixed the problem. At our Cub Scout races I always have a black sharpie in my pocket. Not sure about the paint versus no paint theory, but I do know that I prefer not to go thru the trouble of painting a car till I have tested it on the track and sure it is somewhat worthy of a paint job. Also I am a bit impatient when it comes to waiting for paint to dry, you can see my

finger prints on all my cars

....SPIRIT...

 

[epop raceing]

Opa I had a thought about covering a car with a coke can to make the side more smooth for the wheels. Is the Econokote or Monokote hard to work with??

Also A note while on this subject of pain gone wild. Could the paint have had a reaction to the wet/dry sandpaper I used. It said something about silicon or something.

Epop

 

[OPARENNEN]

Econokote comes in strips 5" X 36". One strip could cover many cars. It is the easiest to use, but is heavier than Monokote by about 20%. One layer weighs the same as a single coat of paint, but if paint is covered with clear coat, the net result is that it is much lighter. It is easiest to work with, and strip cost about 4 dollars.

Monokote comes in rolls, and one roll would cover dozens of cars. It is harder to work with if underneath is hollow. A roll is about 15 dollars.

If either is placed over a solid surface, both are easy to apply. I started by using a normal iron of my wife's. That was very awkward. Best is to buy the iron used my model airplane enthusiasts. It is 1.5 inches wide, shaped like a boat (flat at rear, pointed at front, covered with teflon, and about 3 inches long with a long handle).

At first, covering a car with hollow insides took several attempts to get the M or E-Kotes absolutly tight and flat. But if you have a wrinkle problem, you just tear the piece off, and try a new piece. No Problem. Think of the amount of time it takes to re-do a paint job that turns out wrong.

Go to:
www.monokote.com/econokote.html

The bottom of my cars are flat, so I always put a light color on the bottom, and roll the edges up over the sides. With a flat bottom, little chance for wrinkles. By the way, my sides are always straight. Curved sides would be difficult to cover.
I use a separate piece at the top, and roll it over the rear and the nose, but not the sides. Because the car top is curved, attempting to roll the top piece over the sides creates wrinkle problems.

Opa I had a thought about covering a car with a coke can to make the side more smooth for the wheels. Is the Econokote or Monokote hard to work with??

Also A note while on this subject of pain gone wild. Could the paint have had a reaction to the wet/dry sandpaper I used. It said something about silicon or something.

Epop

 

[5KidsRacing]

Most of the newer timers (including the ones the leagues use) use a photo transistor as a sensor. A light is generated by the lower sensor and directed into the upper sensor. When the upper sensor sees the light it generates a small amount of electricity. When a car passes over the sensor it interrupts this light beam and the sensor detects this change in electricity and stops the timer. The color of the bottom of the car doesn’t matter. You just need a solid material to break the beam. Maybe color did matter on some older timers, I don’t know…. All of the bottoms of my cars are white or unpainted. I think the only way you would cause problems for the current timers is to have a see through car (glass, plexiglass, etc..) or one that was really reflective on a track that is really polished.. These two examples would be a disadvantage for the racer.

 

[Spirit Racing]

Thanks for the info 5 Kids . Yes our pack n myself do have old timers, and it has been huge problem in our races. I figured they may have changed the design but didn't know for sure , and did not what to take a chance. Always appreciate your and everyone's feedback....SPIRT......

 

[Guest]

I STAND CORRECTED. mAYBE WHAT DADDIO WAS TRYING TO TELL ME WAS I NEED TO MAKE THE BOTTOM OF MY CAR LONGER..ABOUT 7 INCHES LONGER