Thank you for this resource!

[Thinkin'Bout Racin]

Thank you all. Sorry to start some chaos on that question. Since I have to use the slot provided and cannot "drill" would I be out of line to deepen the slot to cant/toe the wheels?

Everyone here is competitive. So, sometimes differences of opinion take place ...no need to apologize. Take the advice given, review it and make the best decision that you can and that you are comfortable with.

I looked over your rules quickly and may have missed something, so take this advice after considering all of the rules.

I am not completely sure that you can't drill? It states that "axles holes cannot be drilled into the car". It also states "The axles must be driven into the wooden body's pre-cut axle grooves". Depending on your comfort level ....one could argue that you could drill a pilot hole for the axles into the slot. Keep the pilot hole just small enough so you still need to drive the axles in during install. This would allow you to still use the slots as required and meet the "driven in" requirement. The main reason for this is so that your alignment can be more accurate. It is virtually impossible to install axles accurately without some sort of guide. The pilot hole would act as this guide. Alignment is CRITICAL to having a fast car! Ideally, a jig of some sort would be used to drill these pilot holes.

If you are uncomfortable with that idea, then try a Derby Works axle install tool. While the term "Derby Works" is almost taboo around here, if you MUST, then this tool works decent to install axles into the slots fairly straight. Definitely much better than trying to free hand it. If you go this route, Be sure to clamp this install tool tightly to the body before inserting the axles! Take your time installing the axles. Use some extra/junk axles for this ...push//drive them in a bit and stop ....let the wood relax .....wait a minute or so ....push/drive them in a little further and stop ....wait and repeat. I would do this in 4-5 increments for each axle. Remove the axles with an axle pliers. Reinstall them and leave overnight. This helps to relax the wood. I would leave the Derby Works install tool clamped in place overnight while letting the wood relax. The next night, move the tool to the other slot and repeat for those axles as needed.

Your rules say you must use the axle slots in the body, so that means your are stuck with the 4 3/8" axle centers. I did not see where it mentioned that the axles slots needed to remain in the original locations. So, another important item would be to cut one end off your block so that one slot (the rear of the car) is 5/8" from the end. Then glue the end you removed to the front of the car. You will loose a saw kerf in doing so, but your rear axle placement will now work to your advantage. When the weight is placed in the rear of the car ( approx 2 ounces behind the rear axle) it falls further/longer down the hill. This gives you a stronger push and a better conversion of your potential energy. The loss of a 1/8" saw kerf will be more than offset by the new rear axle location. Read about weight placement and the advantages of having both the weight and rear axles in this location.

Axles and wheel/bore prep are and will be also key to having a fast car. Read as much as you can about this and get some decent products for your bore prep. It will pay dividends. It pays to buy extra wheels and axles from your scout shop so you can sort thru them to get the best wheels and axles for use. It also gives you extra wheels/axles to practice on along with extra axles for other uses.

Anyway those are just a few ideas that you may or may not use based on both your skill and comfort level. Remember to have FUN and spend quality time with your cub. This can be a really great way to teach both physics and some very important life lessons. Don't waste this opportunity to teach your Cub these things!

Do your best! Good luck!

 

[Pinewood Outlaw]

While we are here lets not forget to mention that although the rules state that kids should do most of the work lets not forget about the Guide to Safe Scouting which will prohibit cub scouts from using MOST power tools

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Create a cant in the rear by pressing the axles in at an angle. Bend your front axle. You CAN DRILL into the existing slots if you want to use a drill tool to get the axles to go in properly.

 

[S Ham]

I was debating canting them by cu

While we are here lets not forget to mention that although the rules state that kids should do most of the work lets not forget about the Guide to Safe Scouting which will prohibit cub scouts from using MOST power tools

He will be. He's 7 but is going to have a ton of fun cutting things out.

 

[S Ham]

Everyone here is competitive. So, sometimes differences of opinion take place ...no need to apologize. Take the advice given, review it and make the best decision that you can and that you are comfortable with.

I looked over your rules quickly and may have missed something, so take this advice after considering all of the rules.

I am not completely sure that you can't drill? It states that "axles holes cannot be drilled into the car". It also states "The axles must be driven into the wooden body's pre-cut axle grooves". Depending on your comfort level ....one could argue that you could drill a pilot hole for the axles into the slot. Keep the pilot hole just small enough so you still need to drive the axles in during install. This would allow you to still use the slots as required and meet the "driven in" requirement. The main reason for this is so that your alignment can be more accurate. It is virtually impossible to install axles accurately without some sort of guide. The pilot hole would act as this guide. Alignment is CRITICAL to having a fast car! Ideally, a jig of some sort would be used to drill these pilot holes.

If you are uncomfortable with that idea, then try a Derby Works axle install tool. While the term "Derby Works" is almost taboo around here, if you MUST, then this tool works decent to install axles into the slots fairly straight. Definitely much better than trying to free hand it. If you go this route, Be sure to clamp this install tool tightly to the body before inserting the axles! Take your time installing the axles. Use some extra/junk axles for this ...push//drive them in a bit and stop ....let the wood relax .....wait a minute or so ....push/drive them in a little further and stop ....wait and repeat. I would do this in 4-5 increments for each axle. Remove the axles with an axle pliers. Reinstall them and leave overnight. This helps to relax the wood. I would leave the Derby Works install tool clamped in place overnight while letting the wood relax. The next night, move the tool to the other slot and repeat for those axles as needed.

Your rules say you must use the axle slots in the body, so that means your are stuck with the 4 3/8" axle centers. I did not see where it mentioned that the axles slots needed to remain in the original locations. So, another important item would be to cut one end off your block so that one slot (the rear of the car) is 5/8" from the end. Then glue the end you removed to the front of the car. You will loose a saw kerf in doing so, but your rear axle placement will now work to your advantage. When the weight is placed in the rear of the car ( approx 2 ounces behind the rear axle) it falls further/longer down the hill. This gives you a stronger push and a better conversion of your potential energy. The loss of a 1/8" saw kerf will be more than offset by the new rear axle location. Read about weight placement and the advantages of having both the weight and rear axles in this location.

Axles and wheel/bore prep are and will be also key to having a fast car. Read as much as you can about this and get some decent products for your bore prep. It will pay dividends. It pays to buy extra wheels and axles from your scout shop so you can sort thru them to get the best wheels and axles for use. It also gives you extra wheels/axles to practice on along with extra axles for other uses.

Anyway those are just a few ideas that you may or may not use based on both your skill and comfort level. Remember to have FUN and spend quality time with your cub. This can be a really great way to teach both physics and some very important life lessons. Don't waste this opportunity to teach your Cub these things!

Do your best! Good luck!

What I was leaning toward was instead of drilling i could lightly saw into it in order to give it the cant that I want.
I picked up 4 total kits so I can pick and choose between the wheels and axles. Plus I wanted a few blocks in case something doesn't come out perfect.

 

[Mojo Racing]

Even if you use a drill press and a fence to drill your axles, it will be a lot more accurate than trying to saw a cant into your block.

 

[Reecedad]

Seriously this is a huge help at getting started. I have so many questions and rule interpretation questions. I've been reading for the last few weeks and finally signed up. My son wants a fast car and I want to guide him through it as much as possible. I'll be doing the axle and wheel prep.

What about the difference between ladder vs I design cars?
I know its an aluminum track that appears in decent shape.

It doesn't say we have to use 4 wheels. Can I remove one altogether? What about a stationary guide fin?
It does say we have to use the BSA wheels, but they may be lightly sanded to remove burrs, but cannot be shaped and the trade cannot be minimized to alter the tread-surface contact. no H or V shaped wheels. i cannot under cut the the wheel or shape the tread to minimize surface contact. I cannot round or alter the wheel surface where it contacts the car.

Axles can be polished to remove small burrs. No other changes are allows. No shaping of the axles.

We have to use the BSA slots, and have the nail head visible. but it doesn't sound like I can't make the slot deeper as long as the nail head is visible.

One item is no slots at the front of the car, but can I use a raised bar ? It simple says the front tip must touch the starting pin, no concave car fronts since the starting pin must rest against he leading edge of the car.

I just sent you a private message. Good luck in your race!!

 

[S Ham]

Create a cant in the rear by pressing the axles in at an angle. Bend your front axle. You CAN DRILL into the existing slots if you want to use a drill tool to get the axles to go in properly.

I'm thinking this is the best way. Do you have any recommendations or tips for doing so?

 

[S Ham]

What kind of weight distribution is ideal for this? It looks like I will only need to run 3 wheels. I know to trim in the DFW. What kind of ratios are ideal? I'll be able to trim this body way down in weight. I picked up a variety of weights and sizes from TX .

I also want to talk about weight support in the pocket. I was leaning toward us triming the pocket completely out and utilizing our covering etc to hold it in IE. Avery Label/ thin Shipping Tape coating. Is this an error in judgment?

 

[Jimmy & his 2 Kids]

Common is cutting weight pockets all the way out then just add a piece of 1/64 ply over the top covering the weight pockets. Glued down with a little CA and it works like a charm. Plenty strong enough to attach cubes too using thin/clear 2 sided tape. Not sure the actual part # brand most folks use. I use the stuff that comes in the window insulation kits.

 

[S Ham]

Thank you. That is exactly the guidance I needed.