Thin car design template?

Give it time there will be Lotsa aMore...haha
Rocket car said:
I think this is the longest thread I've participated in????????? It just keeps going and going. Ha ha ha
 
started a new thread- just info on thickness and COG- no fenders and NOT best prep, but sub 3 for Pros and a look at mid pack Cub cars with both Std and Extended wheelbase
 
What I can't tell is if most of these thin designs are a straight line from the back of the car to the nose. I assume with the typical 1/4inch cube weight pockets that they are flat in the back then just past the pocket, about 1.75" from the back, angle straight to 1/32" at the nose. Just plotting out my own designs with an extended wheel base, 5 3/8", that makes for a very thin top clearance of the front axle holes. I tried to leave about 1/8" above the center of the front axle hole, then make a steeper angle to the nose.
 
With 1/32" at the nose that doesn't leave much room to drill front axle holes, from what you are describing. Typically you'll see the front axle holes between 3/32" - 5/32". Look at the cars closer and I think you'll notice something different than what you described.
 
I guess I was taking what I read on 5kids car build and ladder body profile as the basis. That's where I was getting the 1/32" and having a hard time figuring out how it was pulled off unless the angle changed after the front axle. Yes most pics on here didn't seem that thin and many seemed to have just one continuous line from front to back.
 
Mine looks like this....

side.JPG

I cut weight pockets, glue in weights, drill holes, test, cut rough profile with band saw, sand back with belt sander until I see weights, sand middle at angle with belt sander from back weights up to just above lifted axle hole, sand nose at more angle with belt sander from lifted hole to nose leaving almost no thickness at nose, test, hollow out any more weight with drill press and end mill bit, fill hollowed out area, test, paint/decal, test.....
 
Thanks. That is actually really close to what I was drafting except with a blunter point that would be rounded off by hand sanding. Will probably have to try a few blocks to see how close I can get to the front raised wheel axle hole without losing it's integrity. Could just rely on the positive cant DFW to keep the NDFW off and drill the holes the same or even negative cant the NDFW to get more clearance.

5KidsRacing said:
Mine looks like this....

side.JPG

I cut weight pockets, glue in weights, drill holes, test, cut rough profile with band saw, sand back with belt sander until I see weights, sand middle at angle with belt sander from back weights up to just above lifted axle hole, sand nose at more angle with belt sander from lifted hole to nose leaving almost no thickness at nose, test, hollow out any more weight with drill press and end mill bit, fill hollowed out area, test, paint/decal, test.....
 
5KidsRacing said:
Mine looks like this....

side.JPG

I cut weight pockets, glue in weights, drill holes, test, cut rough profile with band saw, sand back with belt sander until I see weights, sand middle at angle with belt sander from back weights up to just above lifted axle hole, sand nose at more angle with belt sander from lifted hole to nose leaving almost no thickness at nose, test, hollow out any more weight with drill press and end mill bit, fill hollowed out area, test, paint/decal, test.....

You forgot to add, then win... as scott has done a lot of
 
5KidsRacing said:
Mine looks like this....

side.JPG

I cut weight pockets, glue in weights, drill holes, test, cut rough profile with band saw, sand back with belt sander until I see weights, sand middle at angle with belt sander from back weights up to just above lifted axle hole, sand nose at more angle with belt sander from lifted hole to nose leaving almost no thickness at nose, test, hollow out any more weight with drill press and end mill bit, fill hollowed out area, test, paint/decal, test.....
 
depends on your weight pockets and how much you thin the top down. Id say for this shape you're probably looking around 15-20grams
 
derbinator said:
What is your final wood weight for this design?

I think most are trying to get 3.8-4oz of tungsten cubes packed in the back which makes 24 1/4" cubes. Then get to around 4.9x oz total and use putty to get to 5oz with the official scale.
 
Also gotta say that a bandsaw is a little overkill for only using to make cars. It's just little block of pine. A jigsaw, scroll saw, or even a coping saw work just fine.