Touchy Steer Fix

Feb 23, 2014
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This is what I do. I split the difference between bending the axle and the angle of the drill job of the DFW.

So this cuts your adjustment sensitivity in about half.

--- updated--

Set up:

a. the setup probably should have no fence on the drill press
b. the setup needs to be on a piece of board so you can rotate the Silver bullet.
c. pretend there is a Clock where the DFW wheel is, 12:00 is straight up when the car is set down to run.
d. lets say @ 6 degrees my bend points to 7:00 to get 3"/4ft,
e. when done your Axle will only need to be bent 3 degrees

Ninja Drilling 101!!! lol

1. load your body in the Silver Bullet Like you would normally do the drill job.
Note: bottom of car toward you and DFW up

2. look up the pin you need for 3 degrees (half your bend of your axle) from you Silver Bullet translation sheet. (.126)

3. put the pin under the block opposite side of the end your drilling and in the slot/valley toward you.

4. So at this point you are tilted 3 degrees back.

5. Now Rotate the whole thing (as if on a lazy Susan) till that 7:00 is pointing directly at you

Note: now if you didn't rotate you'd lose .5 of a degree (3/6 = .5 X 1=.5) (1=7 position, 3=degree, 6=6 positions from 6-12 on the clock)

6. close your eyes and drill

There see, that wasn't soo bad??

You guys that are doing this, does this sound about right?

I know its not totally exact but it works!
 
Great tip and thanks for the description!

I drilled a couple that steer 2" in 4' and the cant angle is around 6-7*- all using a straight axle.
Figured I could bend the axle about 2* and would end up somewhat dialed in and not have such a sensitive adjustment. Haven't tested them yet though.

My method varies a bit but the end result for both of us sync up.
 
That would be cool if you did a video Ice.

I'll go ahead and make a short video myself and post it on youtube and post it on this thread, might take me a week though the rate I've been going lately/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif
sick
but it would simplify being able to see it. I would not even attempt to try and write detailed instructions on this particular topic since a lot of what I say makes no sense anyways when I go back and read it lol.

But in a simplified version here goes, kinda like doing crown molding but on a drill press..

In my head, I refer to it as a compound hole that is being drilled.

The fence can stay as is and the procedure only takes about 5 more seconds than without doing it.

Feeler gauges of varying thicknesses are used to adjust the toe angle.

How the feeler gauge is situated under the block and in relationship to the pin is critical and key.

Sharp angled axles can be bypassed and not rub against the polished bore surface when the axle is inserted into the wheel bore. Last year I posted that I was paranoid that the sharply bent axle was going to ding up the bore so I dinked around trying to find a solution, bending the axle while the wheel is mated is not for me, although a technique may exist that is safe and effective. Anyone know of a way?
 
Corvid Racing said:
That would be cool if you did a video Ice.

I'll go ahead and make a short video myself and post it on youtube and post it on this thread, might take me a week though the rate I've been going lately/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif
sick
but it would simplify being able to see it. I would not even attempt to try and write detailed instructions on this particular topic since a lot of what I say makes no sense anyways when I go back and read it lol.

But in a simplified version here goes, kinda like doing crown molding but on a drill press..

In my head, I refer to it as a compound hole that is being drilled.

The fence can stay as is and the procedure only takes about 5 more seconds than without doing it.

Feeler gauges of varying thicknesses are used to adjust the toe angle.

How the feeler gauge is situated under the block and in relationship to the pin is critical and key.

Sharp angled axles can be bypassed and not rub against the polished bore surface when the axle is inserted into the wheel bore. Last year I posted that I was paranoid that the sharply bent axle was going to ding up the bore so I dinked around trying to find a solution, bending the axle while the wheel is mated is not for me, although a technique may exist that is safe and effective. Anyone know of a way?

I might give it a try, even though my voice sounds like sh1t. Heck I have the video editing down I probably should try. That and making fenders video would help out a lot of new people.

Corvid, as for you fear of dropping the axle through I don't think people worry too much. Just don't make it tight, tight! Loosen it up a bit so it just drops right through! Or dip the end in plastic handle dip, like for pliers! lol We'll call it Axle protectant dip! (John don't be taken my ideas!!)
 
Nice description Ice

I like to drill the DFW at an angle too

My next car will be quite an extreme one with all canting. (You knew it was bound to happen Paul)

I think I posted a photo of it elsewhere but it has nearly a 20* angle on the DFW.

Not sure if this will help it, but it looks really cool.
 
Ice, when you say the end is dipped do you mean where the bend is or are you just playing?

Laser, that bend is gonna look wicked! Are the rear wheels going to have increased camber too? Hope it works for ya.
 
Corvid Racing said:
Ice, when you say the end is dipped do you mean where the bend is or are you just playing?

Laser, that bend is gonna look wicked! Are the rear wheels going to have increased camber too? Hope it works for ya.
I hope it works too.
It makes sense in my head but that rationale has lead me astray in the past.
Tobacco Thief will have 20* up front and 9* in the rear
When is the limbo contest?
 
Should be stable and I imagine the rears would be less likely to budge from the axle head, possibly letting you get away with more weight in the rear?...

Dare ya to try it with the double step intact
blah
/images/boards/smilies/rofl.gif
rofl
 
Corvid Racing said:
Ice, when you say the end is dipped do you mean where the bend is or are you just playing?

Laser, that bend is gonna look wicked! Are the rear wheels going to have increased camber too? Hope it works for ya.

I'm playing a little, but heck it would probably work. I'm only talking about the tip though. I also thought about using wax paper to protect it but then you'd have to reduce your bend to get it through.
 
Had to ask because it does sound like something worth looking into. My axles that are sharp at the tip end up getting clipped off and then filed into a blunt, snub nose.

I have had moderate success with carefully filing down the 2 high spots at the bend and polishing them down. What once fit through tightly, now slips right through while maintaining the same bend.

Sitting here thinking about it, I wonder if filling in that crevice with the plastic-dip would help decrease micro vibrations that plague the DFW axle? Hmmm. Ya got me thinking now...
 
Corvid Racing said:
Had to ask because it does sound like something worth looking into. My axles that are sharp at the tip end up getting clipped off and then filed into a blunt, snub nose.

I have had moderate success with carefully filing down the 2 high spots at the bend and polishing them down. What once fit through tightly, now slips right through while maintaining the same bend.

Sitting here thinking about it, I wonder if filling in that crevice with the plastic-dip would help decrease micro vibrations that plague the DFW axle? Hmmm. Ya got me thinking now...
Cool idea dog!
 
Thanks bud,

Not sure who shared the idea, but the smoothing of the notched axle radius I picked up from this forum. The first time I tried it, I accidentally ran the file right up the journal surface of the axle, not a good feeling/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif.
 
Sounds like a good fix, I'll give er a go /images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif