This is definately a rookie question since I am new to a tuning table. I finally got my glass for my 8 ft table and started tuning some cars, I started with our street stocks and noticed they would steer slightly right before steering left against what would be the rail. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong. I am aware every car is different and tuning takes some getting used to but can someone point me in the right direction as a starting point for wide wheel cars and thin wheel cars.
Using A Tuning Board
- Thread starter Ryanh
- Start date
- Nov 24, 2011
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Do you have a straight center line? Are you lining the car up perfectly with that center line? Are you taking into account the material you removed from the DFW side? You have to make sure to do that. It sounds like you're just not starting the car square.
I have a straight center line but I could be starting it wrong, I am making sure the rear wheels are away from the body and placing the dfw straigh ahead of rear wheel. Should I be setting it slightly farther left for since the dfw is closer to the center of the car?
- Nov 24, 2011
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Yes you should. Make sure you start it the same everytime or you'll have no idea what your adjustment did.
- Nov 24, 2011
- 3,903
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36 .. Kinser sounds like he has you on the right track.. I just want to enter something also.. Make sure when you start tuning on the board that the steer axle is all the way in to your running position. Sometimes when it to far "out" the car will act goofy too.
I use a very smooth unpainted particle board 7 feet long and 2/4 inch thick (that's all the room I had).
On one side, I raise it only 1.5 inches (use the tops of spray cans), and level it at several spots.
At 1.5 inches, the cars all coast to the bottom, but slow enough so I can evaluate them, and catch them before they reach bottom. Although just in case, I also put a foam buffer at the bottom.
I nailed an L-shaped piece of framing (Home Depot) on each side to keep cars from falling off.
At the bottom, I marked estimated markers for each class.
Total cost is less than $20.
On one side, I raise it only 1.5 inches (use the tops of spray cans), and level it at several spots.
At 1.5 inches, the cars all coast to the bottom, but slow enough so I can evaluate them, and catch them before they reach bottom. Although just in case, I also put a foam buffer at the bottom.
I nailed an L-shaped piece of framing (Home Depot) on each side to keep cars from falling off.
At the bottom, I marked estimated markers for each class.
Total cost is less than $20.
ok, i will be the dummy here. on my board, i just mark off half inch lines on the bottom. simple....if it stops on the 2.5. then its 2 1/2" drift over 6 feet. i have from a half inch to 8 inches.
what are all the lines for and what do they mean, and what do they actually tell ya????
what are all the lines for and what do they mean, and what do they actually tell ya????
Heck I'm with you DNA .. But mine is even more dummy then yours. I don't even have inch marks. I just put a sharpie mark on my board where my cars have proven to run the best on the track..
The #'s are for the degree of turn off the center line. Do you need the curved lines? No. It really does make it look more professional. I think the most important thing about the tuning board lines are the starting position. You just got to make sure you can start it the same spot and position every time. I have yet to make one. It will be in the very near future. Tuning is much easier with a board!!
- Nov 24, 2011
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