waxes
- Thread starter TRE
- Start date
carnauba is very hard in it's natural state but must be cut with petroleum distillates, or a solvent to soften it up and make it workable. This makes me run away. But I bet you have some junk in the trunk to try it out!
- Nov 24, 2011
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Yea you should see all the stuff Kinser has tried.... He took a pic one time and posted it.... Unreal the amount of stuff probably 2 years worth of hardcore research and a few hundred dollars but it paid off for him
- Nov 24, 2011
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microbrush
Guest
At least not one of his (Kinser's) doors squeaks!
Anyone know how jig a loo lubri penetera compares to normal jig? My dad picked me up a few cans while north. This can is yellow not Orange. I thought that a picture would help my dad out in getting the right stuff. I guess not, I have the yellow stuff.
Anyone know how jig a loo lubri penetera compares to normal jig? My dad picked me up a few cans while north. This can is yellow not Orange. I thought that a picture would help my dad out in getting the right stuff. I guess not, I have the yellow stuff.
Yea micro...none of his doors squeek and his automobiles shine like glass...Lol...I dont know which has tried more stuff him or DD4H
I don't have the answer, but curiosity took me to the Jig-a-loo site.Microbrush said:
The Material Safety Data Sheets:
Lubri Penetera (penetrating lubricant)
Jig-a-Loo
Dunno if this is helpful to anyone...
M
microbrush
Guest
Crash Enburn said:
Interesting! Good idea about looking at the MSDS. They do not look similar at all. I have seen in past posts that people have tried the red can. I think that the fact it says antifriction is why he thought it was the right one.
Interesting the writeup says: Lubri Penetra does not damage plastics, rubber, glass or metal.
Then a few sentences later: Some plastics and painted surfaces may be damaged with contact. Please check before using.
Sounds like a weatherman.
I tried carnauba one year. results were not positive. It's slick on a car but seems to have some "grip" before it gets slippery. I'm sure there's a science term for that. I've been curious about RainX, but don't have any so I'm not trying it.
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Vitamin K
Guest
I have always wondered about the "how" of waxes, myself.
For example, is the key to good wax the overall slickness? Or is it about how it interacts with the krytox between the axle and bore?
And why is it Jig on axles and wax on bores? Is there a reason it isn't Jig on both? Or wax on both? What's the magic behind the jig-krytox-wax sandwich? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
For example, is the key to good wax the overall slickness? Or is it about how it interacts with the krytox between the axle and bore?
And why is it Jig on axles and wax on bores? Is there a reason it isn't Jig on both? Or wax on both? What's the magic behind the jig-krytox-wax sandwich? /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
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Vitamin K
Guest
Mojo Racing said:
I'm aware that the propellant isn't kind to plastic, but one could presumably spray some jig into a cup, let the propellant evaporate and then apply to the bores with an applicator, no?
Vitamin K said:
hmmmm... might be an idea there.
I would have to make it a re-sealable cup though... I don't want my Jig getting wasted by dumping it out.
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Vitamin K
Guest
Mojo Racing said:
Maybe some kind of test tube?
Though I guess a baby food jar would work, too. A wider mouth might allow for more surface area, so that the propellant could evaporate more readily.
- Nov 24, 2011
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Vitamin K
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Kinser Racing said:
In what ways? Fumes?
Or do you mean, it breaks down quickly and becomes useless when exposed to air for too long?
- Nov 24, 2011
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It puts off a lot of evaporative gas. If you put it in something like a needle dropper bottle it'll squirt out for some time.
