Weight Placement for Plug-N-Play

[ninjarabbi1997]

Got a plug-n-play block from DD4H and wanted to know what the weight placement should be? It is for 3-wheels touching with the 1.170" BASX wheels (I know with the 4-wheels touching plug-n-play you can't go with an aggressive rear weighting or it will shimmy down the track, wanted to know if it was similar here before weighting the car).

Are the wheel to body gaps the same as well (small)?

thx,

Jim

 

[~JBD RACING~]

Pm sent Jim

 

[Rocket car]

Put 12 cubes behind the axle and the rest in front for a balance point about 5/8 -3/4" in front of the back axle. Gap the wheel with a business card.

 

[Quicktimederby]

Jim, Good to see you on the board again! When you going to re-start league racing again?

 

[ninjarabbi1997]

Thx for the help!

I'd love to send in a car sometime. I am a pastor and our church has two campuses now and it has been pretty busy.

blessings,

Jim

 

[Mustang1]

We got a plug and play put 10 cubes behind axle 10 cubes in front added .3 oz of putty divided evenly between front and behind ended up with a COG of 3/4 inch ran the recommended "tight" wheel gaps and still had a very bad wiggle on a wood track. Still won pack easily but moving all putty up in front of axle for districts. Just my experience I thought I would share.

 

[BulldogRacing]

I would add a tough of steer

 

[TRE]

I would add a tough of steer

kinds defeats the purpose of buying plug and play doesnt it, but i agree

 

[BulldogRacing]

I would add a tough of steer

kinds defeats the purpose of buying plug and play doesnt it, but i agree

Missed that. I forgot about the difference. I guess you would need to move the weight but with a ton of wiggles in a plug and play I doubt the weight up front will be enough. Slight wiggles I bet it'll work but steer always does the trick for me but i have no experience with plug and play.

 

[TRE]

plug and play has preset amount of steer drilled into it

 

[Mustang1]

Yea I double checked drift on a makeshift tuning board (mirror glued down on a 1X16 ) was consistent at 4-1/2" over 4' both before and after race.

 

[bracketracer]

We got a plug and play put 10 cubes behind axle 10 cubes in front added .3 oz of putty divided evenly between front and behind ended up with a COG of 3/4 inch ran the recommended "tight" wheel gaps and still had a very bad wiggle on a wood track. Still won pack easily but moving all putty up in front of axle for districts. Just my experience I thought I would share.

Did you add the weight with the car on three scales or just put the weight in rows?

 

[Mustang1]

Only used one scale tried to line up the 2 rows in front with the 2 rows in back then added putty in the back evenly as possible in the remaining voids around the edges then in front I placed all putty on the DFW side

 

[Rocket car]

I bet you would of been fine on an aluminum track, but needed more steer for a wooden track.

 

[bracketracer]

Mustang1, if you lined up the weight in rows that will leave the NDRW carrying more load than the DRW. Some cars run better like that but some are faster with the load more evenly balanced on the rears. Without some track time it would be tough to say what's going to work for you.
Something else to consider- if the wobble was in the rear only (the nose held the rail but the tail end was loose) all the steer in the world probably won't fix it. If there's too much axle to wheel bore clearance (not wheel gap, that's a different thing) you can get a wobble in the rear. Make sure you have two straight rear axles and make sure the axle diameter hasn't been reduced too much by polishing.

Personally, I don't worry too much if it has a little wobble in the rear on a scout car. A little loose is fast as long as it doesn't drag a rear wheel on the rail.