What wheel would y'all use?

I was hoping y'all could help me out. I don't know if I should play it safe or take a risk based on this wheel rule.

"The wheels may not be cut, drilled, beveled or rounded. You may remove the seams and imperfections from wheels".

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sounds pretty open to me.

"Cut" is a generic term. Cut with what...? A knife or scissors poking holes in the sidewalls like you could with a drill...??

Beveled or rounded probably refers to the tread surfice.

I see nothing forbidding lathed or machined wheels.

I'd go with Intimid8rs. Tell them it was hard work getting all the seams and imperfections out!. . . /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

But on second thought, if this is for a scout race, it's probably best to play it safe. Go with the Basx as John suggested.
 
cygnus said:
Sounds pretty open to me.

"Cut" is a generic term. Cut with what...? A knife or scissors poking holes in the sidewalls like you could with a drill...??

Beveled or rounded probably refers to the tread surfice.

I see nothing forbidding lathed or machined wheels.

I'd go with Intimid8rs. Tell them it was hard work getting all the seams and imperfections out!. . . /images/boards/smilies/smile.gif

But on second thought, if this is for a scout race, it's probably best to play it safe. Go with the Basx as John suggested.

/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif
 
We had the same rules, went with the Rages. No issues. About the only difference from the BASX to a layman is the hub step removal, and the Revell BSA wheels don't have a hub step, so for all any inspector knows, it's one of those. Plus, my rules, and yours don't say a thing about the hub area anyway.
As it turned out, we could have run Cheetahs and never had a problem. Unless you have some seriously knowledgeable inspectors, it shouldn't matter. And even then, it'd be hard to tell unless they are going to make you remove a wheel to look at it.

IMO, those rules look like they are designed to stop the older tricks of coning or "H" cutting the tread to get less contact. Those methods are rendered obsolete by canting.
 
Yeah I am finding out more and more that many events may have strict rules on wheels but when it comes to the actual check-in no one is actually inspecting to enforce it. That also usually means that the competition isn't too serious either so it is unlikely that you'd get 1 upped by someone with ultra-light wheels.

Packfanweb said:
We had the same rules, went with the Rages. No issues. About the only difference from the BASX to a layman is the hub step removal, and the Revell BSA wheels don't have a hub step, so for all any inspector knows, it's one of those. Plus, my rules, and yours don't say a thing about the hub area anyway.
As it turned out, we could have run Cheetahs and never had a problem. Unless you have some seriously knowledgeable inspectors, it shouldn't matter. And even then, it'd be hard to tell unless they are going to make you remove a wheel to look at it.

IMO, those rules look like they are designed to stop the older tricks of coning or "H" cutting the tread to get less contact. Those methods are rendered obsolete by canting.
 
ngyoung said:
Yeah I am finding out more and more that many events may have strict rules on wheels but when it comes to the actual check-in no one is actually inspecting to enforce it.

I wrote the rules for our race to be pretty well wide open. The only real limitations were a max weight of 5 oz. and that Maximum Velocity wheels were used. We had a check-in checklist that explicitly stated "Maximum Velocity brand wheels"

Before the race started, I looked at the table and found that 5 out of 30 cars passed inspection with either BSA or Pinecar wheels on them.
angry


None of those cars placed, so I didn't have to deal with possible ejections.
 
ngyoung said:
Yeah I am finding out more and more that many events may have strict rules on wheels but when it comes to the actual check-in no one is actually inspecting to enforce it. That also usually means that the competition isn't too serious either so it is unlikely that you'd get 1 upped by someone with ultra-light wheels.

And that was me, I'll be running lightend wheels next year! Thought I could out build a local running light wheels. It was close but man I couldn't do it! Run Lightened wheels but keep another BASX ready to go in the car!
 
At districts we actually ran stock wheels with matched mold numbers and smoked the field. I had to make up some of the difference in weight in the build. It is a tuff thing to do, but it can be done.