wheel prep

zigzag

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Jan 13, 2015
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trying to find a good technique for basic wheel prep (rounding, lighting, coning, etc) outside of buying a lathe - which I don't see happening in the near future.

I have read some of the reviews on the DW Wheel Shaver tool - and that feedback appears mixed. Also, I have to think that putting a wheel on a drill and sanding the wheel or taking a blade to it creates as much risk of messing the wheel up as helping it (and being consistent wheel to wheel would be a real challenge).

In any case - welcome any input.
 
I'd love to see some good information on this as well. I've seen a few designs for homemade truing or lathing solutions, but I've also heard that these usually just make wheels worse. Perhaps a good way to start would be by constructing a concentricity gauge and then using it to test wheels before and after being worked by whatever method employed.
 
1) You could just buy turned wheels from DD4H.

2) Go to the scout shop and put together sleeves of wheels with mold #s of 2, 3, 8, and/or 15. These are the best molds straight outta the box. A light sanding to remove the mold marks/lines, and you're golden.
 
There is no good way outside of a properly setup lathe. There are a lot of people even with lathes that struggle to make a good wheel. (Not directed at anyone, just from conversations with different people) The wheel shaver is HORRIBLE!! I know because I have and tried to use it. There is to much clearance in the hub tool for most BSA bores, you will be completely frustrated and end up with blisters on your fingers. If you are not willing to make a investment of a lathe and around 50 sets of wheels to figure it all out you are far better off using some professionally lathed wheels by a supplier you can trust. See the board sponsor for the best.
 
From a non-pro, I have tried the wheel shaver ( and a number of other DW tools) and ruined countless wheels. If anyone wants to try it, I'll send mine to you (seriously)...
 
TBH I would settle for a non-lathe setup that at least improved upon the raw wheels. Or even a reliable way to fix the outer hub double step. I don't really see any mold marks on todays wheels other then in that part. There is a line that you can hear the ticking from when spinning a wheel.

For treating the wheel tread the closest "shadetree mechanic" setup I have seen is using a wheel mandrel with the centering cone, chucking into a drill press, and having a cutting tool clamped down on the table that.

skip to 10:35...For some reason direct linking the time does seem to work on here
[video]http://youtu.be/TtLhPIkR16s?t=10m35s[/video]

The shortfalls to this are still pretty significant since a drill press is not a precision machine. Even so, I think it is fun to experiment and try stuff like that when it doesn't involve wasting money buying special tools like the Pinecar/Derbworx wheel shavers. That is the only reason I really gave that setup much thought, other then the mandrel, it didn't involve any specialty tools and just looked like something fun to try.

Another hurdle I think is just having the ability to verify and test your work. I wouldn't want to use my son's scout derby as the test to see if something I did worked. VK mentioned a guage, if you have a dial indicator and pin gauges you can possibly make a simple jig to measure wheel tread to bore run out. Another factor you would have to consider is wheel weight balance. Even if you get the tread to bore run-out minimized you may be left with more wheel imbalance then before.
 
that's a pretty good setup for a non pro that most could set up. I do it different, and like my results but it take more patience...plus our rules say use the parts in the kit... and I'm sure has it's own pitfalls in the eyes of the pros as well as mine. Some pitfalls I know about and some I have yet to discover. I'd like to make a vid one of these years and share but it never makes it to the top of my list. But my basic tools are pin guage, in drill press, metal block square to base of drill, and various grades of sandpaper. Out of time for now but can explain more later if need be.
 
As requested, a still pic of what my sons and I do. Doesn't do it justice or explain the ins and outs like a video would. Suggestions are welcome, but this is a kid friendly setup with a little guidance on amount of pressure and patience. Always tested with dial indicator...and believe the ones we do are within .001 or better. Best I can get the drill to be, and you can't get it better than the drill itself as far as I know. Also this is with awana wheels if it matters. Haven't tried on bsa's
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Chromegsx: I'd definitely like to know more details about your setup if you're willing to share!