I think that we are looking at two effects here: 1) the rotation of the car as it goes through the transition, and 2) the steadiness of the car on the flat (no wiggles).
The wheel weights are expected* to be effective in this on both counts. Since the weight surrounds the axle, the very point about which the car is rotating, they help in minimizing the amount of energy spent in rotating the car.
Also, much like a tightrope walker's balance pole, the weights are outset from the body to hopefully provide better stability.
*This thread is saying that some guys had to put a lot more steer than normal on their cars when they ran the tungsten Puma weights. It could just be that the tungsten weights changed the CoM such that the DFW wasn't getting enough weight on it to drive it, and so needed more steering to compensate. With or without the wheel weights, I think that you should still be shooting for a CoM of 1/2-3/4" — which could very well mean only one row of weights behind the rear axle. YMMV.
The wheel weights are expected* to be effective in this on both counts. Since the weight surrounds the axle, the very point about which the car is rotating, they help in minimizing the amount of energy spent in rotating the car.
Also, much like a tightrope walker's balance pole, the weights are outset from the body to hopefully provide better stability.
*This thread is saying that some guys had to put a lot more steer than normal on their cars when they ran the tungsten Puma weights. It could just be that the tungsten weights changed the CoM such that the DFW wasn't getting enough weight on it to drive it, and so needed more steering to compensate. With or without the wheel weights, I think that you should still be shooting for a CoM of 1/2-3/4" — which could very well mean only one row of weights behind the rear axle. YMMV.