Which axle???

[Guest]

This board claims to be neutral so I will pose this question. I would like an honest assessment of which axle is faster or are they basically the same speed.

Jewkes/Evo (Clone of the Jewkes) 93 or 91 vs the DD4h 92x.

I know many of you have tried both so what are your results?

 

[Spirit Racing]

I am using the 92X and I am running faster than I was with the 93's or 91's. However you have to get everything else right as well to be in the thick of things. And the 92X's have got me to a new level of success. Just my 2 cents .........SPIRIT......

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Next Level is back! This is a very good question. I would love to hear honest response to this also. Evo Knievel lays some pretty thick claims. I am sure his are fast too because the Jewkes axles were fast. I have been VERY happy with the 92x. It has been the best axle I have ever touched but I am bias.

Thank you Spirit!

 

[Quicktimederby]

When you have fallen off the "EDGE" and highest and fastest parts matter, Dynasty 92x's all the way.
I haven't try EVO's but if they are the same as the Jewkes than I already have my answer. Are the Jewkes still in business? I haven't seen a car of theirs on the track in a long time.

 

[45t]

I had the same question on the axles (what was the best to get). Looks like it will be the 92x'ers for me.

I also was wondering on the wheels (specifically the ones from DD4H). I see so many options listed for sale from DD4H that I'm unsure which are the right ones to get. I'm interested in ones that are the fastest and will not disqualify my son's car racing in the scout derby races.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Wheels are solely dependent on your rules. There is no standard. The better question is how do they check the wheels and do they even check the wheels. Also do they check the wheels the same for everyone.

I had the same question on the axles (what was the best to get). Looks like it will be the 92x'ers for me.

I also was wondering on the wheels (specifically the ones from DD4H). I see so many options listed for sale from DD4H that I'm unsure which are the right ones to get. I'm interested in ones that are the fastest and will not disqualify my son's car racing in the scout derby races.

 

[pony express]

My fastest times have been with the 92s.

 

[45t]

Quote: Wheels are solely dependent on your rules. There is no standard. The better question is how do they check the wheels and do they even check the wheels. Also do they check the wheels the same for everyone

At the pack level they didn't even glance at the wheels. They only checked weight and length. I'll find how strict they are at District.

Here are the district rules they sent me on axles and wheels. Maybe that will help in suggesting wheel and axle determination for my son's car.

Axles: Axle location, must use slots in original block for axle placement. No changes in axle distance allowed. No soild axles will be allowed. Only axles as provided by the official pinewood derby kit will be allowed. Pointed ends of nails must be visable for inspection.

Wheels: Cars must run official BSA wheels from kit of the car to be raced. no holes drilled in the side or tread width narrowed.Tread indicators must be visible on all four wheels. Only light sanding and polishing of mold imperfections on the outside of the wheel is allowed. Wheels cannot be tapered to a sharp edge or radius. Alterations to the inside of the wheel are not permitted.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Run BASX.

 

[Spirit Racing]

As far as wheels go, my sons district had very strict rules. No modifications except truing the outer circumference of the wheel round. I used the BASX wheel John makes and blew the field away. And did mate those wheels with the 92X BSA tip axles which did help as well....SPIRIT......

 

[W racing]

Have you been to a race before and what do they check and what do the rules say? BASX should pass most anything. Cheetahs are very clean as well but less stock in appearance.

 

[45t]

Districts are March 9th, I'll see how they inspect then.

When I'm ready I'll order the BASX and 92X with tips. Thanks for everyones assistance on the axle and wheel determinations.

 

[OPARENNEN]

I posted elsewhere about solid axles. The only ones I know about that are readily commercially available are those in PineCar kits. The good part is that the rear wheels are absolutely parallel, and you can remove and install the wheels between races quickly.

The bad part is that the material in those axles is sub-standard. I spent a lot of time prep-ing one of those solid axles for an Eliminator class car, but using JE's wheels for the test. With the same body and wheels, I ran the same car on my test track, changing only the axles (solid vs. 92x). The DFW wheel remained the same on 92X's. I ran over six tests with both axle setups. Difference was consistently between .01 and .02.
92X's were segnificantly better.

Currently I am having a set of solid axles made of superior material. I will post the results in about a month, although the new axles will be 84's.

 

[E.T.Racing]

Another problem with those other solid axle is the retainer. Last year we had someone show up to our race with the pine car axles and wheels and let him race any way half way down on a test run before the race he lost the retainer did not have a spare. I did have a spare set of BSA axles put he had glued in his other axles and his night was done. In my opinion don't use those for that reason alone.

 

[5KidsRacing]

In order for headless axle to work right you have to make the retainer correctly. With BSA wheels an axle with a head is faster for me...

The old Jewkes were fast and the only real option for awhile, but the groove was way too deep and the axles bent easily. The new jewkes are the same design, but the groove isn't as deep.

I don't buy any pwd parts these days because I prefer to make my own..... with one exception... DD4H 92's... I have ran them on everything with BSA or MV wheels for the last 9 months. The groove is smaller and the material is super hard. I probably have 6 or 7 sets of the 92's and I have re-used them over and over and over. I currently can't make a better axle than John's 92's and there isn't anything better out there on the market today.

 

[OPARENNEN]

Another problem with those other solid axle is the retainer. Last year we had someone show up to our race with the pine car axles and wheels and let him race any way half way down on a test run before the race he lost the retainer did not have a spare. I did have a spare set of BSA axles put he had glued in his other axles and his night was done. In my opinion don't use those for that reason alone.

Don't use the PineCar retainers. Buy flexible tubing with a small enough ID to fit over the axle end, just like we do with the unlimited. PM me if you want a source.