Will not drill straight!!

[The Iceman]

Ok, I stopped at Grainger last night and the only #43 drill bits that had where black. (I have a good one in route) I'm guessing they are not as hard as the Jobbers. I checked the drill press for straightness, did a couple of test holes (with the silver bullet) to see if these are too big for my axles (glad I tested) So I sanded down the flute. Retested and the had a very nice snug fit. so I'm thinking I'm good to go. Drilled 3 bodies, didn't check straightness until I already cut out my all the wood I capped it with Balsa. (Frick!)

1.So do you guys think its because they are not the hardened drill bits? I wouldn't think the flute would have anything to do with it!
2. Would you fill it with epoxy and redrill with a good Jobber? Or trash it?

Thanks

 

[Obsessedderbydad]

I wouldn't think the flute would matter. What's off on the straighteners? The hole? Left or right? Up or down? When you start your drill does the bit wobble?

 

[speed bump]

I had the a problem also. Checked the drill press with block and everything checked out fine. Drilled some holes in cars. Then install wheels and axels to check rear wheels. One back wheel would go to the head and the other would not. Drilled another piece of wood and the same thing but on the other side. Bought me another drill bit and that fixed it. I think my bit was flexing on the grains of wood. Might b good reason to use sugar pine!

 

[The Iceman]

I wouldn't think the flute would matter. What's off on the straighteners? The hole? Left or right? Up or down? When you start your drill does the bit wobble?

they would lean to the toward the back of the car, and the bit didn't wobble I drilled at like 80rpm.

I had the a problem also. Checked the drill press with block and everything checked out fine. Drilled some holes in cars. Then install wheels and axels to check rear wheels. One back wheel would go to the head and the other would not. Drilled another piece of wood and the same thing but on the other side. Bought me another drill bit and that fixed it. I think my bit was flexing on the grains of wood. Might b good reason to use sugar pine!

I think your right on about the cheap bit!

 

[quadad]

I am not sure what you are buying but I would only use solid carbide drill bits with a drill press. These often cost around $10. You should never see any flex with any kind of PWD appropriate wood. Jobber length is fine (2" typicall), though some like to use the shorter, circuit board drill size bits to control their geometry even further.

I believe you have more margin when drilling canted rears then when you try to drill perfectly flat axles. Many people chuck up a dial indicator and attempt to square their drill press table even further (there are threads and pictures on this forum for that). Some of the small, precision drill presses (e.g. Proxxon) give you a little opportunity for adjustment, but don't expect anything to be perfect.

 

[GravityX]

Typically the black drill bits are cheaper low grade material bits. Carbide drill bits work the best and have less of a tendency to wander. Your drill speed is too slow, 80 RPM is way too slow.

Crank up the drill speed, 1000-1500 RPM, and drill into the wood a little slower, this way you might avoid the wandering of the bit. Otherwise wait for the good bit to arrive and drill at a higher speed and slower feed.

 

[quadad]

Good catch on the drill bit speed GravityX ! 80 rpm is for drilling into very thick, steel plate ! Maybe it was a mis-type though, because most DPs won't go that low.

 

[The Iceman]

Typically the black drill bits are cheaper low grade material bits. Carbide drill bits work the best and have less of a tendency to wander. Your drill speed is too slow, 80 RPM is way too slow.

Crank up the drill speed, 1000-1500 RPM, and drill into the wood a little slower, this way you might avoid the wandering of the bit. Otherwise wait for the good bit to arrive and drill at a higher speed and slower feed.

Ok thanks, Dang live and learn!!!

Good catch on the drill bit speed GravityX ! 80 rpm is for drilling into very thick, steel plate ! Maybe it was a mis-type though, because most DPs won't go that low.

This has the pulley system and I manually change it!

 

[Obsessedderbydad]

Yes on your drill press just change where the belt is, propbably bottom, to the top set of wheels. Also watch when drilling with the block. I built a fence to rest my block against when drilling. Before I drill I make sure I have a reference point so I can do both the same. I use the last tip of the drill and make sure that touches the center of the line I marked where I want to drill and do the same on the other side. Also make sure the wood is secure in the block and that the block is angled the same each time. I believe the speed may be the problem , but just check those too before drilling. I ruined countless blocks because of some of these things.

 

[Guest]

Yes. Be sure to lower the bit slowly. You want to see the cut material spiral up the bit. If it starts to get clogged then you must bring the bit up and get the wood out of the bit. Probably another reason why many people drill a "glue hole" from above or below first. To ensure easier chip clearance.

 

[The Iceman]

lol it was as 60 rpm, I did some reading and a few places recomended 3000 rpm for Pine!! So I cranked up the old Drill press and did some test runs and didn't have any problems!

 

[GravityX]

Glad you found a solution to the dilemma.

 

[speed bump]

Just got my new drill bit in today. Will test it in the morn.

 

[The Iceman]

Was prepping 4 car bodies last night and they all came out perfect with that good Jobber 44. So I also did some tests with that black #43 and it was off half the time, even at 3000 rpm! wow

 

[bracketracer]

I just bought a carbide bit to try but I never had considered spindle speed.....I did use a super slow feed though. One of the two cars I just made (with a HSS bit) has an obvious toe issue even though both bodies were drilled with the same setup. Thanks for the tip guys!

 

[speed bump]

Just used my new bit. Both cars drilled just right and the tires roll to the head like they supposed to. Junked the other bit. You pay for what u get!!!

 

[Obsessedderbydad]

Glad to hear it

 

[GravityX]

I just bought a carbide bit to try but I never had considered spindle speed.....I did use a super slow feed though. One of the two cars I just made (with a HSS bit) has an obvious toe issue even though both bodies were drilled with the same setup. Thanks for the tip guys!

Good deal BR. Now hurry up and get one drilled up and built. Roll it down the track to see if you found some extra speed.

 

[bracketracer]

I just bought a carbide bit to try but I never had considered spindle speed.....I did use a super slow feed though. One of the two cars I just made (with a HSS bit) has an obvious toe issue even though both bodies were drilled with the same setup. Thanks for the tip guys!

Good deal BR. Now hurry up and get one drilled up and built. Roll it down the track to see if you found some extra speed.

Heck, at this point I'd be happy if it just wasn't slower! lol!

 

[GravityX]

I just bought a carbide bit to try but I never had considered spindle speed.....I did use a super slow feed though. One of the two cars I just made (with a HSS bit) has an obvious toe issue even though both bodies were drilled with the same setup. Thanks for the tip guys!

Good deal BR. Now hurry up and get one drilled up and built. Roll it down the track to see if you found some extra speed.

Heck, at this point I'd be happy if it just wasn't slower! lol!

I'm sure you found some speed in that fresh drill.