Always drill axle holes first?

Jan 23, 2016
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I have seen posted that in general it is best to drill axle holes first then cut weight pockets, shape car, etc. If one gets aggressive with reducing the wood in a frame, would it be better to drill axle holes after? I think I have seen it posted that others have had challenges with this when they drill axle hole first because the frame has warped a little. That said, there's nothing to guarantee that over time with variable humidity and the like that a very light frame would not work or change on a week to week basis.

So, to come full circle, if you design a frame that is stable and not likely to warp given reasonable changes in the environment, would it be correct to think that you should be able to drill the axle holes first on such a frame since it will be stable regardless of the cut and shaping process?
 
If you are a rookie, and not getting a high % of your drills correct, it makes sense to do that first to save a lot of work- check roll and then continue ( probably not attempting a super thin car anyway)
After you can drill most bodies correct- and you are moving up to thin bodies, drill after pockets makes sense.
 
txchemist said:
If you are a rookie, and not getting a high % of your drills correct, it makes sense to do that first to save a lot of work- check roll and then continue ( probably not attempting a super thin car anyway)
After you can drill most bodies correct- and you are moving up to thin bodies, drill after pockets makes sense.

I love this advice, I agree!
 
I do think its more of a preference an not necessary associated with a skill level.

Personally, I get the block down to 5/16", drill my axle holes, and the check my drill. Following that, I'll determine the DFW side, cut the weight pockets/chassis, and lastly, reduce the thickness to 1/4". And yes, I will check my drill again.

I do this for the following reasons:

a.) I can drill axle holes much faster than I can construct the overall chassis, so I prefer to check the drill sooner than later

b.) The block is thicker so I worry less about warping when clamping to the SB vs. a light-weight thin ladder style chassis

c.) Allows me to choose which side will be the DFW, since after a slow roll test, I could narrow either side if necessary

For the new racers, take this with a grain of salt. I'm a mid-pack racer myself. You never know, I could be doing things out of order, but I do believe its a preference (as HurriCrane said) and there's no speed advantage either way. A good argument could be made being that there is a chance that the body could warp after cutting the weight pockets/chassis and before the axle hols are drilled, so drilling axles holes at the end of the chassis build minimizes the chance of alignment problems, but I content that such a lightweight body would flex anyway when clamped.
 
McDoodle said:
Does moisture have any factor in this?
In the wood or in the air?

Start with a dry piece of wood and work in a controlled setting. Don't drag the pine block inside, then outside, then inside. It could cause some strange things. If you are working outside in the garage with it, leave it in the garage and work on it. I believe that if you allow the wood to acclimate to the work environment you can minimize problems with the wood.

Some of you woodworkers out there can shed some better light on this than I, I work with metal, wire and computers all day.