Attempting to make my first "pro" car.

Larry c

Lurking
Mar 9, 2021
4
1
3
Ohio
Does anyone have any pictures on how to distribute the weights in their ladder car to be the most competitive and keep the 3/4" COG from the rear axel? I find that I can only put 10 of the 1/4" tungsten weights behind the rear axel and the rest spread between the front and rear axels. Also I tried to do my own gig a loo prep of the wheels and axels for oil yet wasn't sure of the best way to do it. I used the soft pipe cleaner and a drill to do the inside of the wheels and sprayed it on the axels and let it dry. Any help is much appreciated. Also is there a step by step of how to build a competitive pro car to view?
 
I’m not sure about other league racers, but I have never worried about the COG for any of my cars. I always have about 2oz behind the rear axle, and I move the weight around to get the weight I want in the rear wheels and the DFW. You’re going to find that there is no perfect weight configuration, and that it’s going to be a little bit of trial and error, I’ve built many cars over the years and they all take different weight configurations. If you can only get 10 cubes behind the rear axle, I recommend either sanding the weight pockets to fit them, or buying a 2 oz tungsten bar. Txchemist sells those.

For prepping with oil, make sure you clean your wheels out with water and car wash, and clean your axles windex. The wheels and axles should already be polished at this point. Jig your axles and let them sit under a cover of some sort for at least 15 minutes. Then you can apply your oil.

As for a step by step video on how to build a pro car, I’d have to say that there isn’t one. However, there are tons of videos by the vendors that run the leagues that show you how to prep and what to keep in mind. Sending in your first car will tell you where you stack up, and from there, you can make your adjustments.
 
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I made a mistake, I place 12 blocks in the back. I read and reviewed Txchemist site (excellent information). One thing I didn't understand is that he recommended placing the rear weight to one side of the car (wedged cut out) instead of in the middle. Any ideas on how this is advantageous?
 
If you shift the rear weight more towards a certain side it puts more weight on that side of the car. For example, if the weight is more towards the DFW side, the DFW and the rear wheel on the DFW side will have more weight on it. It goes along with weight tuning. I’ve tried it a couple times, but I’ve found that I’ve needed to add weight on the non dominant side after shifting the weight behind the axle to the dominant side, so I usually just center it now.
 
Does anyone have any pictures on how to distribute the weights in their ladder car to be the most competitive and keep the 3/4" COG from the rear axel? I find that I can only put 10 of the 1/4" tungsten weights behind the rear axel and the rest spread between the front and rear axels. Also I tried to do my own gig a loo prep of the wheels and axels for oil yet wasn't sure of the best way to do it. I used the soft pipe cleaner and a drill to do the inside of the wheels and sprayed it on the axels and let it dry. Any help is much appreciated. Also is there a step by step of how to build a competitive pro car to view?

Did you say you put jig on the wheels or did I misread that?
Definitely want the 12 cubes behind the axle.