Axle cant

[Cam-Car]

When drilling the axle holes using the Block, the car body is level and the canted holes are exactly square to the body. So, it seems to me that when the car is all set up the way you want it, the clearance from the botton of the car to the ground at the back end of the car should be the same as the clearance at the front end assuming that you have a flat bottom car. This would put the car body in exactly the same position as it was when you drilled the holes.

Maybe there is something I haven't considered. I could be wrong.

 

[DNA RACING]

if the front end is higher than the rear this will happen, more air will be going under the car than can be expelled, this will cause a high pressure zone to occur, the effect of this will be to cause lift to the front end, making the DFW unstable. it will also slow the car somewhat. If the front end is SLIGHTLY lower than the rear, it will cause a low pressure zone under the car, this will help stabilize the car and will cut down on drag, nothing too drastic, even a 1/16th is plenty.

 

[plowboy]

After reading this post, I decided to try a little more bend than my son and I did last year. Last year we bent the rear axles .020" and the front axle .015". We did very well with this set up. We one our pack and placed at district. We are setting up his new car currently and tried tried more agressive bends, .070" rear and .050" front. this seems way to agressive. We had to move the spacing for the wheels out further to keep the top if the wheel from contacting the body. How much spacing do you guys run between the wheel and the body? Please let me know your thoughts.

 

[Kinser Racing]

After reading this post, I decided to try a little more bend than my son and I did last year. Last year we bent the rear axles .020" and the front axle .015". We did very well with this set up. We one our pack and placed at district. We are setting up his new car currently and tried tried more agressive bends, .070" rear and .050" front. this seems way to agressive. We had to move the spacing for the wheels out further to keep the top if the wheel from contacting the body. How much spacing do you guys run between the wheel and the body? Please let me know your thoughts.

You shouldn't be bending your rear axles, there's a better way. I also don't understand your method of measurement.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

After reading this post, I decided to try a little more bend than my son and I did last year. Last year we bent the rear axles .020" and the front axle .015". We did very well with this set up. We one our pack and placed at district. We are setting up his new car currently and tried tried more agressive bends, .070" rear and .050" front. this seems way to agressive. We had to move the spacing for the wheels out further to keep the top if the wheel from contacting the body. How much spacing do you guys run between the wheel and the body? Please let me know your thoughts.

You shouldn't be bending your rear axles, there's a better way. I also don't understand your method of measurement.

Kinser is right on here! IMO bending the rear axles might be the #1 WORST advice given to the new builders. To make matters worse you put more bend to them. That is the only saving grace for the axle bender is that it barely bends the axles. Regardless of what some will tell you, having 3 wheels steering is a terrible idea. I will be more than happy to help you get your wood drilled right and winning districts won't be a question. You can compare the rear axle bending to the 3 little pigs story. It would be the house made of straw! The only reason to bend a rear axle is if the car is drilled bad and you have to make it work. As an alternative you are a thousand times better off using the slots and pushing your straight axles in at an angle and gluing them.

 

[Guest]

I agree about bending the rear axles. I bought into the theory and did it last year. It was very bad when I had to take the car apart after I spent hours trying to tune it right. We won our pack and got beat badly in the district race. After reading more and more on the different forums it is very clear to see the marketing structure that is in place. I now use it as joke and tell all the parents that ask me what I do. I tell them the axle bending tool is my secret. Hopefully they won't get more informed before the next race. By the way, I love this forum. It is much less company driven and is by far the most accurate as far as what I have tried and tested. Keep up the good work.

 

[MWDracing]

Exactly DD4H, thanks for letting us in on the secret a few years ago.

NEVER USE REAR AXLE BENDING TO TUNA-CAR.
Do you really want your car to swim down the track.

Use the block to get the rear axle holes right.

MWD

 

[plowboy]

Thanks for the advice and the quick response! Our rules state that the axle slots have to be used, thats why I was bending the rear axles. Sounds like I could have drilled the block at a angle with the slots? How I am bending the axles is chucking them up in my drill press, putting a dial indicator on the axle and bend a little, rotate the chuck and see how much it bent and continue bending till I get to the right measurement. The .020" and .015" I found on a different website last year. I believe I can straighten the axles back if needed. Any suggestions on how to proceed from here? Body is already finished and painted with fenders on it.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Bless you plowboy!!!! Your bending method gave me an idea!!!

To answer your question, if I have to use slots I will first drill the holes pre canted then I will cut a slot in. Every rule set says if the slots are bad you can fix them. In your case have you tried just pushing them in at a slight angle to get the negative cant?

 

[plowboy]

Glad I could give you an idea ! Sounds like that my best possible option at this point is to straighten the rear axles and then put them in at a slight angle - I have not tried that yet. On the front axle, I have always run a negative cant, tilted in at the top, but I have seen some that have a positive cant, whats the best way to run? Thanks again for the help and for creating this forum. I got my wheels and supplies from DD4H this year and the product seems to be superior from what I have gotten in the past from other suppliers.

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Front axle positive cant. Rears negative cant.

 

[Ryanh]

Do I need to drill the frnot holes in a positive cant as well or just use to axle to obtain the angle on a wide wheel car?

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

No, drill front straight then bend the axle.

 

[aaron999888]

Lets say for example you put a 3-5degree bend in the DFW axle to achieve positive cant. Do you simply rotate it forward a little more or a little less to determine more or less turn towards the rail? Also what is the best way to determine the degree of bend?

 

[DerbyDad4Hire]

Lets say for example you put a 3-5degree bend in the DFW axle to achieve positive cant. Do you simply rotate it forward a little more or a little less to determine more or less turn towards the rail? Also what is the best way to determine the degree of bend?

Yep, just very small turns will make a big difference. I bend my axle so it barely drops through the wheel.

 

[aaron999888]

Awesome, Thanks!

 

[Kinser Racing]

Don't try to straighten and reuse the rear axles, get new ones! /images/boards/smilies/wave.gif

 

[plowboy]

I think I have the situation fixed with the rear axles. Had a question with the positive front axle cant. I have bent the front axle and installed with a positive cant. Being installed like this when doing test runs, the front wheel moves up against the body while the back wheels ride against the axle head. It seems that this would not be a favorable situation due to higher drag against the body than the axle head. Have I missed something here or have I set up something wrong?

 

[mgh Racing]

I think I have the situation fixed with the rear axles. Had a question with the positive front axle cant. I have bent the front axle and installed with a positive cant. Being installed like this when doing test runs, the front wheel moves up against the body while the back wheels ride against the axle head. It seems that this would not be a favorable situation due to higher drag against the body than the axle head. Have I missed something here or have I set up something wrong?

Nope, you've got it right. Make sure the body is extremely smooth where the wheel will touch, or use a teflon washer if its not against the rules.

 

[plowboy]

I have a small section of test track (7 ft) that I am making test runs on. I have bent the axle as DD4H has suggested - barely dropping through the axle hole in wheel. In making a test run with another car, it is about a car length slower. If I put in a axle that is not bent nearly as much, the cars are about even? What am I doing wrong?