Axle cant

ZZ, For me its a little different. The 2.5-3 is a good start, what I like to do after I get the car build I do a few slow roles down the track and listen to and watch, what the wheels are doing. If I have a screech type noise I will give it alittle more cant. As for how the wheel reacts I will leave that up to you to figure out what works best for that car. The easiest way is to get lucky and build a fast car than compare the differences to the cars that aren't performing so well. It sucks they should all just run good!
 
Opa, As far as the turn in degree, it all depends on the car and the COM. All my cars COM are pretty conservative so the the turn degree is not to much at all.
 
DerbyDad4Hire said:
When the axle barely drops through the wheel.
yes - and I polish the groove I cut to make the bend so that it doesn't gouge the bore going in. I am running a pretty extreme camber 5.5 degrees.
 
i changed the axle in one of my cars from 3 degrees to one that just barely fit through the bore and gained .006. that is alot in my book. that could be first instead of fifth.
 
Kinser Racing said:
DerbyDad4Hire said:
When the axle barely drops through the wheel.

This is what you want to shoot for. It's right around a 10 degree bend.

When using this much of a bend, do you drill the DFW higher up into the block?

I've been using the typical 5/32 to 6/32 on the rears, and 3/32 to 4/32 for the DFW when using around 3-4 degrees of bend. I'd imagine the amount of toe-out would increase with 9-10 degrees of bend on the DFW.
 
I have been using an extreme bend for some time after watching cars being staged at races. /images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif
 
I use wood blocks drilled by DerbyDad4Hire because I know they are accurate and the vertical positioning is proven successful.

Could someone help me understand why the rear holes are drilled higher than the front. If you ad to this, the rear wheels being canted negative and the front being canted postitive - the rearend sits even lower. Why isn't the resulting toe-out of the rear wheels counter productive?

I don't question if it works, I just can't get my mind around why.
 
mgh Racing said:
Kinser Racing said:
DerbyDad4Hire said:
When the axle barely drops through the wheel.

This is what you want to shoot for. It's right around a 10 degree bend.

When using this much of a bend, do you drill the DFW higher up into the block?

I've been using the typical 5/32 to 6/32 on the rears, and 3/32 to 4/32 for the DFW when using around 3-4 degrees of bend. I'd imagine the amount of toe-out would increase with 9-10 degrees of bend on the DFW.
I drill the same as you but I don't think I get quite that much of a bend - maybe 6-7 degrees - but it's hard to measure. I know I have to smooth the cut I make for the bend or it will gouge the bore.
 
When you guys find the perfect heights PLEASE let me know!
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The trick is bending the front axle the exact same. Still looking for the best way to do this.
 
I have often wondered if the rear sits lower than the front, AND if you have a flat bottom, is it possible that the air flow would take a bit of weight off the rear end???
If this happens to be true, even though the back might lift some, the car would still not lose momentum on the down slope.

Another thought. If the top of the car has a bulge (like an airplane wing), the venturi effect would also cause a decrease of weight on the wheels, without losing forward momentum. I have noticed that a lot of cars have a slight bulge at the front axle point, as well as at the rear, where the weight and rear axle reside. Maybe this helps, or maybe our cars don't move fast enough for all this to occur, but who knows? Maybe one of you engineers can enlighten us on this.