I've been running the back wheels non-reversed in the street-pro division. If you reverse them what axle do you use? A solid axle or different placed grooves?
Axles for street pro
- Thread starter pony express
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Same axle as you run with the wheels non-reversed, but you have to cut the inner hub step all the way off....
It is worth the time and money to have John just cone your hubs for you then all you have to worry about is your prep.
Okay, so speaking as a reverse-wheel virgin, what you're saying is the end of the inner hub should be flush with the inner rim? Or more than that? Also, should both inner and outer hubs be coned? If the axle head's already tapered, do you really need the inner (now outer) hub to be coned?
5KidsRacing said:
jator359 said:
You want your axle to ride the same way in the bore both ways... if you don't cut off the inner step then you are pulling your axle out of the bore and the groove is riding in an awkward spot. Not to mention that the inner hub is riding on the tapered axle head on the larger OD of the inner hub. Regarding coning, you only really need to cone the hub end that is riding on the tapered axle head. You are right, the axle is already coned so why cone the hub too? Well..... it is faster.
It would make more sense if I draw a picture... if you want me to draw a picture let me know and I will tomorrow.
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5Kids, I would like a picture of what you described if you don't mind. I have a simple mind and pictures work best for me
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It would make more sense if I draw a picture... if you want me to draw a picture let me know and I will tomorrow.
Quote:
It would make more sense if I draw a picture... if you want me to draw a picture let me know and I will tomorrow.
Duh, you're right. I forgot the inner hub's got a lip (or what you're calling a step) that doesn't come in contact w/ the axle shaft. It's always been a pain to clean the bore polish and wax out of there, but I digress. That makes sense. But if you're inclined to do a diagram, have at it! Your drawings always leave little doubt.
5KidsRacing said:
No I don't think that is true.... You have to at least remove the entire step, but you can remove a little more... I suppose that is a personal preference, but it needs to be done right because if that surface isn't perpendicular to the bore your wheel will wobble. The amount of spacer has to be a minimum so the wheel doesn't hit the body, but it can be more... again another personal preference.
Chief said:5Kids...you should have put the drawings in motion like sondos avatar...then we would be able to get the full effect, Its a good thing I dont drink...I would probably be having several conversations with sondos avatar.
you mean its just a picture??? What!
Looking at it too long makes me feel like I had too many adult beverages....
That's funny!!!
Chief said:5Kids...you should have put the drawings in motion like sondos avatar...then we would be able to get the full effect, Its a good thing I dont drink...I would probably be having several conversations with sondos avatar.you mean its just a picture??? What!
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Thanks 5Kids, that will help me in the future. I got another question for anyone. Does anyone have a picture of how you do the two drill method, when cutting the groove in the steel axle so it will bend better in the (DD4H axle bender). thanks
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Don't worry guys, I will take it down in a day or so. I got a new still one I created that I like. I was just really happy about getting rid of the rainbows
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