Bending Front Axle
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I don't know if there is much out there to check the deg. of bend, a protractor maybe. For how much of a bend you want different people like different amounts. For me I like as much bent as possible, that still allows the axle to slide through the bore with out contact. Hope this helps and good luck.
I try for 2.5 on all but Unlimited, in which case I want more. BUT bending is kind of a guess work (very difficult to measure). However, I am considering more bend on all classes, but I haven't tested over 2.5 yet to be sure.
I haven't talked to John yet about his new tool. Maybe it wiil povide the ability to be more precise. Never the less, it's bound to be 1000% better than the preceding hamer bending, or even using a screwdriver like in his DVD.
By the way, look at GoatBoys Unlimited cars. Lots of bend, maybe even 5.0. and he is the undisputed King of that class.
I haven't talked to John yet about his new tool. Maybe it wiil povide the ability to be more precise. Never the less, it's bound to be 1000% better than the preceding hamer bending, or even using a screwdriver like in his DVD.
By the way, look at GoatBoys Unlimited cars. Lots of bend, maybe even 5.0. and he is the undisputed King of that class.
Using a protractor like the one in the pic below you can draw 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 degree angles on a sheet of paper and then measure your bend by seeing which one comes closest. 7.5 degrees is about the limit, any greater, you will have trouble fitting the axle through the bore hole.
I use a cheap plastic Empire protractor to set the angle I'm shooting for, then measure it against the chuck in my drill after I bend the axle down. The drill is held horizontally in a vice during the bending process, with the axle inserted up to the groove. It may not be as accurate as some methods, but at least it gets me in the ballpark. For SS, I've run 2.5-6 degrees depending on how I have the car set up.
And to bend the axle . . .
Some people use a small flatblade screwdriver in the groove and hammer down. This method is difficult to control. A better method, for me anyway . . . If you look at the photo above showing the axle in the hand drill . . . I take a "baby" washcloth folded twice and wrap it around the axle to protect from scratches . . . then use a regular pliers that I bought at Menards that has the perfect width . . . then bend the axle down. It takes a few to develop the feel, but I can get pretty accurate, 4, 5, 6 degrees, on the first try. DD4H's new axle bending tool would probably be the most accurate and repeatable.
Some people use a small flatblade screwdriver in the groove and hammer down. This method is difficult to control. A better method, for me anyway . . . If you look at the photo above showing the axle in the hand drill . . . I take a "baby" washcloth folded twice and wrap it around the axle to protect from scratches . . . then use a regular pliers that I bought at Menards that has the perfect width . . . then bend the axle down. It takes a few to develop the feel, but I can get pretty accurate, 4, 5, 6 degrees, on the first try. DD4H's new axle bending tool would probably be the most accurate and repeatable.
cygnus said:
Good advice...I'm still using an old style BSA wheel I cut in half with a hacksaw to do the bending...but stainless axles take a LOT of force if you don't cut the groove deep enough.
The bending tool is untouchable. There is nothing close. You MUST PUT A BENDING GROOVE INTO THE STAINLESS AXLES. They are much too hard to bend without. With the bending groove I still will use the hammer and screwdriver if I don't have my bender. I don't think the bend accuracy is that important. The main effect is has is it changes the gap between the two front wheels which has a large effect on your speeds.
Why not just make a miniature bending bar,that's how we bend golf clubs...and they are mostly stainless?
DerbyDad4Hire said:
+1
I know I push the screwdriver & hammer method... I don't actually use a screwdriver, I use a huge wood chisel. If you use a large heavy tool with a tapered point it is much easy to control and you won't slip and damage your axle. It is also easier if you do it horizontal.
and another thing.... I cut the groove in my lathe with a round nosed tool. With stainless it is really hard and brittle so if you cut a "V" you have a chance of breaking the axle if you overbend. So if you are using a drill press I would use a small round file to make your groove. You can start it with a "V" file and then switch to a "O" file.
Also, I leave the axle in my lathe when I bend it. I just hold it right near the groove and then use the chisel/rubber mallet method. If you don't have a lathe then one of those dworx axle press things works great for holding the axle while you bend. That is about the only thing it does well and I did it that way for a couple years.
Also, I leave the axle in my lathe when I bend it. I just hold it right near the groove and then use the chisel/rubber mallet method. If you don't have a lathe then one of those dworx axle press things works great for holding the axle while you bend. That is about the only thing it does well and I did it that way for a couple years.
It has been a productive day and my car is coming together. Thanks for everyone's inputs, especially 5kidsRacing and DD4H my first DFW axle bend came out great. I do have one of John's axles benders headed my way on the 28th of Feb./images/boards/smilies/smile.gif
- Nov 24, 2011
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As you increase the positive camber you decrease the distance between the front wheels.
CDB Racing said:
