BSA 92 Axles with point

Any tips on how you polish one of the pre-bent axles? I usually spin them in a drill press and run up the line with sand paper till the leather and polish, but this would seem problematic if the axle is already bent.
 
You should polish the bent axle before you bend it. After the initial Polish bend the axle then if it needs touched up use a rag and some polish at a lower RPM.
 
I would suggest purchasing from a vendor who will polish the pre bent axle for you before he bends it, that's the right way to go about it. You should only use a bent axle for the front wheel the rear wheels should be canted in the drill so you and your scout could polish those for the learning and experience.
 
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Ok, thanks folks!

Yes, we have the silver bullet pro jig for the 3 degree canted rears and we are verifying the rear alignment using machinist blocks and squares using lightninboy techniques.
 
Ok, thanks folks!

Yes, we have the silver bullet pro jig for the 3 degree canted rears and we are verifying the rear alignment using machinist blocks and squares using lightninboy techniques.
I have used the silver bullet pro jig and suspected it to be off a bit. I verified my suspicions using gage pins, engineer squares and 1-2-3 blocks. The 3 degree holes are not straight across from each other, off by .006" and one side has a toe in/out issue. Very disappointed considering the cost. Don't know if this is a common problem or if I just got a bad one. What did your test results reveal?
 
I have used the silver bullet pro jig and suspected it to be off a bit. I verified my suspicions using gage pins, engineer squares and 1-2-3 blocks. The 3 degree holes are not straight across from each other, off by .006" and one side has a toe in/out issue. Very disappointed considering the cost. Don't know if this is a common problem or if I just got a bad one. What did your test results reveal?
If you are having an issue with your jig please let me know. I expect them to be on and if yours is not then I will get you another one. Unfortunately I can't control the machining process before they come to me but I am sure there is always going to be a foul ball every now and then.
 
I have used the silver bullet pro jig and suspected it to be off a bit. I verified my suspicions using gage pins, engineer squares and 1-2-3 blocks. The 3 degree holes are not straight across from each other, off by .006" and one side has a toe in/out issue. Very disappointed considering the cost. Don't know if this is a common problem or if I just got a bad one. What did your test results reveal?

My alignment test for the tool was only visual; I inserted two drill bits backwards, and visually the ends appeared to line up perfectly. I did not test like you did down to the thousands with machinist tools. At some point, I suspect the nature of a wood pine block and a drill bit is going to have some minor variation/tolerance issues even if the metal machined tools/jigs are perfect.

Verifying alignment on my drilled blocks using lightninboy method, I have not had a car body that I would consider "perfect" but I have a few that are very close. That said, I had some minor play in all my blocks that I suspect was a contributing factor. Going forward, I am going to either screen for thicker blocks ti start with or use thin tape on both sides to take out the play.