BSA wheels and axles

M

MBRacing

0
Feb 4, 2014
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Won our pack races with 4 axles and wheels out of the box, but decently prepped. We won every race by a car length and I feel strongly it was due to block prep and alignment as I know some who were running lightened wheels. But was told we would need to pick up a lot of speed to compete at districts and were advised to get the lightest wheels we could.

was going to get a set of 1g wheels, but then have read where they might not be as fast as the cheetah wheels? Is this because of momentum on the flat? Or will the lighter wheels always be faster? How much would the 1g wheels be worth over stock wheels when used on stock axles?

How much is gained by going to a BSA speed axle over well prepped stock axles? I really would like to run a stainless axle but technically the rules are as follows:
4. Only official BSA wheels and axles may be used. "Razor" wheels are prohibited.
I know there is some gray area as to what they are "used" for on the car (think tiny weights) but I do understand what the intent is. I just dont know how far to push it or if they even look at it. I have a feeling if it looks like a nail it prob passes but I havent been before so I dont know what to expect.

Any thoughts?
 
Our rules are the same. We run 1 gram wheels because its not a best track that our pack runs on. I think it a freedom track. Very gentle slope compared to the best track. And yes the 1 gram wheels are faster for me But that's just for that track. As for the axles 92s are the best for my cars. Nobody has ever pulled cars apart to inspect them in our district or counsel races. If they did they will have to pull all cars to b fair. If it was a best track I would run cheatahs. Our rules say must have bsa on the outside of tire.
 
Already set up to rail ride, 3 wheels. Honestly, I think that's why we won the pack race over some of the other cars. At the suggestion from last years district racer I already have a set of wheels similar to the lite speed 1g wheels that I was gonna use then came across the post about the cheetah wheels.

I cant get anybody nailed down on the axles and how close they look at them. Im leaning towards running stock axles just to be safe then try and make it back next year and have a better idea whats going on.

There are a few minor things I would have done different on the body and weighting but it would be too hard to do now without major work, so I know Im probably giving up a little speed already so I may be too concerned with the wheels and axles and missing something else anyway. I just would like to be competitive and faster than we were at the pack race.
 
Can u test the car on the track or another track? If so u might can just pull the back wheels and swap to the 1 grams and run it to see if better times. I would run anything other than the stock axels that come in the box (if allowed to ) derbydad has some real good bsa axels in stock with grooves. Just polish them up real good and u will b set.
 
I don't know what the track is. I was told it was the same as our pack track which has a more gentle radius to it not a sharp turn at the bottom. I have seen photos that look like a different track with sharper bend but I don't know if they use the same track each year at the district or if it could vary.
 
I do have a couple of Revell BSA axles, they are about .087 I believe. Would they be better than a good set of stock axles even though they are smaller diameter? I try to pick the largest major diameter stock axles that I can find and use those, which end up around .089 on the major and .084 on the minor. Then find the straightest side of the major and minor for the wheel to run on. My thinking was the .089 in the right orientation may be more stable than the smaller .087 even if its not perfectly round?
 
That should work fine. Polish them up with sand paper start at 1500 grit and go up to 2500 or 3000 grit and then use brasso or mothers al. polish with a piece of leather. Then use a cotton string to polish last. Just the string by its self. Spray with axels with pledge and then wipe them off with a cloth. Graphite them up and see what u got.
 
leaves a slick residue on the axles! Have u ever touch something after the wife used it? Very slippery! It works I do know that. Now that is for graphite cars not oil cars. Don't wipe all of it off but don't leave a bunch on the either. Try it u will like it.
 
ok so I did a little searching... would silicone spray do the same thing? spray it and wipe it off?
 
+1 Graphite or oil ????? Graphite + Pledge = fast
Oil + jigaloo = very fast
mixing them = very slow
 
speed bump said:
That should work fine. Polish them up with sand paper start at 1500 grit and go up to 2500 or 3000 grit and then use brasso or mothers al. polish with a piece of leather. Then use a cotton string to polish last. Just the string by its self. Spray with axels with pledge and then wipe them off with a cloth. Graphite them up and see what u got.
Click to expand...

I sprayed ours with Pledge but didn't wipe it off. Just let it sit, covered, for 30-45 min and it will evaporate down to the good stuff.
 
how long does this last? Is it a 1 time application, or do you clean, spray and reprep before race day?
 
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